floete

here are a few more random shots from today. don't know if they add anything to the equation, though.

thanks again all!

rcarpen22

I'd go for it. But then, I've bought four Porsches sight unseen so I'm probably not a good role model.

Ed Hughes

The deal on the engine......98,000 miles is not high miles in 911land. These motors can go for twice as many miles easily.

The deal on not being rebuilt is that this means some hack hasn't had the engine apart to screw it up by using RTV for gaskets, and reusing parts they shouldn't because they're way in over their head financially.

mike5876

doesnt look that terribly bad..make the 7-8k offer..worst case they say no!

GothingNC

Looks like it's in decent shape from the photos with a straight dash.

I would pul the battery and check for corrosion on the fron pan and trunk fender wall.

Also PPI for broken head studs

Good luck !

John

floete

let me ask a general question about used P buying. Do you settle on a price first and then do the PPI or do you do the PPI and then work toward a price? Maybe it depends on the car. In this instance, it seems to me I'd want to do price first. What's the rule o thumb?

Ed Hughes

Settle on a price first, subject to PPI-unless its a ridiculous "can't miss" deal. You don't want to fork out $$ for PPI only to find the seller's asking price is THE price. If the PPI turns up stuff, then you go to the table or walk.

Rob Heath

When I bought my car this summer, we agreed on a price subject to a PPI results. I told him I would pay for the PPI and give him a copy. Choice of garage was easy since he was having the car serviced at the same place I go. Gave him the results and he came down some in price and I knew car was in good shape with NO $URPRISE$.

When I bought my 912 several years ago, I took two cars through PPI process and then passed on them both because of results. Was able to buy the 3rd one I looked at / with a PPI across the country and bought it unseen. Price also came down after the PPI. NO Surprises either.

Brett San Diego

Ah, dash cap. That explains it. I find the two-tone carpeting strange, while the seats and panels look great (except the door pockets). So, has it been reupholstered with select carpeting replaced? If so, have a good look at the job, and make sure it is a satisfactory one by your standards. Ed is spot on. Engine "age" is more about miles and how it was driven and serviced rather than time. If you're concerned, get a leakdown test with the PPI. You'll pay more, so make sure you're serious about the car.

Brett

whalebird

I agree with everything posted above. Really looks unmolested. The fact that the engine has NOT been rebuilt is a plus...really. I would open the doors and, with a flashlight, look at the fender tunnels. Colision damage can be found if the bolt at the top of the fender, just above the door hinge and beneth the window corner, looks as if it has been removed replaced. It should be covered in factory paint with seam sealer around the fender seam(both sides). As well as rust/corrosion on the fender baffle just ahead of the door. Also look at the welds in the engine compartment at the top corners along the edge of the engine compartment. There should be welds from the factory but not a gob of "bubble gum" and they should be somewhat similar side to side. Same for the lower engine compartment corners. Problems here can indicate collision damage. A replaced rear quarter is a flag. Suprisingly , a large number of cars in the 8k-10k range have had a front fender off and is not neccesarily a terrible thing, but inspect the front tub in the trunk around the condenser fan and along the sides around the shock mounts for wrinkles or irregular contours. The sheetmetal in the trunck should overlap smoothly with no bubbles or separation. Keep in mind that a good 911 is a 20k car. If you buy it for 10k it will take another 10k to get it "right" I think a properly maintained car with no collisions and original motor is a great starting point. You may have a nice car albeit slightly blemmished from age, and thats sort-of rare at the price range this car is in. Oh, did anyone mention a PPI? Get one before proceeding with funds.

BRB-83-911SC

floete - I sent you a PM.

Ed Hughes

In sorry to sound like a jerk, but if you sent a PM leave it at that. Posting an announcement seems redundant. Everyone subscribed to this thread needs to look at your revelation. And I'm compounding the issue by commenting.

I also get miffed when someone subscribes to a thread by posting "subscribed". It cones down to etiquette.

Norske

98 K for an SC is not a lot of miles. Have a leak down & compression check to determine engine health. Others have posted on the steering wobble. With proper maintenance an SC will go a long time. They are not overly stressed engines. My 72 E went 240K before needing valve guides. Valves & crank were in great condition. A good PPI will reveal what needs to be done. Car does look quite nice for age.

whalebird

unsubscribed

dshepp806

Whale: you funny,.............

Doyle