theiceman

[QUOTE=, you want the heat on the nuts.[/QUOTE]

ouch

edgarcia737

Well I went the oxy-acetylene route. I needed to get my torch back from my dad. Thanks again.

Ed Hughes

That crossed my mind as I typed that.

theiceman

i don't think it i oxy acetaline but AI have seen in stores where they sell you a Propane gas bottle along with an equal size oxygen tank ( i think it is yellow ) and it comes with a small torch head that would be great for geting in their .. has anyone seen this ?

Any opinions on if this would work . it is only about 75.00 and may be worth the investment. Wife is looking to buy me something for christmas anyway if it would work.

Ed Hughes

That is what rusnak referred to. Propane isn't hot enough by itself, and isn't what you'd mix with O2. That is Mapp gas. IMO, you'll go through $75 worth of little gas bottles to do this. They do not seem to last long.

theiceman

well that sure does suck ..... I need a better plan ..

rusnak

Yes...that is mapp gas. I love those little torches because I can lug them out to the field if I need to. The shop tanks are heavy and not so portable. Another thing about the Oxy torches is that some of them come with tips that sort of spread out the flame too much, and you have less control as to where you put the heat. I'd probably use a small cutting tip and cut the heat back so as not to cut your nuts off.

No nutless Porsches in this forum!

whalebird

Awesome thread that should be helpful. I cant remember how many people brought these cars to us with broken exhaust studs. There is only one method that is fool-proof and that is the oxy torch (blue wrench) on the nuts (I already laughed at the above post) and the nuts only.
One thing I did see posted was the allen wrench being used. There are a few available from certain suppliers for this job, but I bought a 8mm long 3/8 drive allen wrench from Matco(there the only ones I know of that have hardened allen wrenches). The trick is that you must use tool-hardened steel. The Snap-on crappy allens are useless in this case as are most others. The problem lies in the fact that you get the nut nice and cherry red, stab the allen down into it, twist and the tool snaps off at the end. Then you got real problems.
Find a long enought 8mm allen in steel that is harder than a preacher's-dick. Then follow the above stated advice.
I know people make the harden allens and a google search should help.
Go back on with the hardest(grade 10/12) hex nuts (12mm, or even 13mm). Thats why SSI's have a funky wrench in the box. I have multiple SSI wrenches in both 12 and 13 mm.

Ed Hughes

I've heard the term "gas wrench", but I like "blue wrench", that's a keeper.

psychoideas

I don't know if it's a common term over there but we call it a "gas axe" or the "hot spanner"

DobermanDad

Bringing up this old thread. Sounds like the torch (blue wrench) is the preferred weapon of choice to remove the nuts on the exchangers.

I want to remove mine eventually. So doing a bit of research of the best method to go about this.

Ed Hughes

I would not attempt to remove a set without an oxy-acetylene torch.

Amber Gramps

So....I'm not the only guy with rusty nuts?

I've felt the fire, and actually, that's how I got the Carrera in the first place.

theiceman

Good timely thread
I used map gas and oxygen kit and got them all cherry red. Used a regular Allen key with heads on the bench.
After cherry red all came off no problem. Were super rusty as never been off since 78.
7 nuts came off. 5 studs came out. Perfect

DobermanDad

Good to know!

I know the method I'll be using to get my off in the future. I know eventually they are gonna have to come off and needed to know the best way to go about it. Don't want to have to deal with a broken stud if possible.