oil pressure switch and o-ring...
#1
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can anyone here supply a diagram of what needs to come off and how on a 3.2 to get access to these parts to replace in order to "hopefully" fix a bad leak.
Waynes book shows how to do it on an SC but not a 3.2.
Please be specific and detailed, I am retarded![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thanks, leo
Waynes book shows how to do it on an SC but not a 3.2.
Please be specific and detailed, I am retarded
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
thanks, leo
#2
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Leo, it's very easy.
I'll come back and post an exploded diagram.
Do you have factory AC?
If not, proceed to remove the airbox and the air flow meter. Have a strong flashlight and a magnetic pickup tool handy. Stick your head into the engine compartment sideways, then turn your head so that you can look down onto the motor. Clean out the old dirt and oil (scrape first, then wipe with rubbing alcohol). Gently move the engine wiring harness aside while you remove the thermostat. The thermostat only goes back in one way, so there is no danger of installing it backwards.
Buy the green (viton) o-ring, not the red one.
I'll come back and post an exploded diagram.
Do you have factory AC?
If not, proceed to remove the airbox and the air flow meter. Have a strong flashlight and a magnetic pickup tool handy. Stick your head into the engine compartment sideways, then turn your head so that you can look down onto the motor. Clean out the old dirt and oil (scrape first, then wipe with rubbing alcohol). Gently move the engine wiring harness aside while you remove the thermostat. The thermostat only goes back in one way, so there is no danger of installing it backwards.
Buy the green (viton) o-ring, not the red one.
#3
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Leo, it's very easy.
I'll come back and post an exploded diagram.
Do you have factory AC?
If not, proceed to remove the airbox and the air flow meter. Have a strong flashlight and a magnetic pickup tool handy. Stick your head into the engine compartment sideways, then turn your head so that you can look down onto the motor. Clean out the old dirt and oil (scrape first, then wipe with rubbing alcohol). Gently move the engine wiring harness aside while you remove the thermostat. The thermostat only goes back in one way, so there is no danger of installing it backwards.
Buy the green (viton) o-ring, not the red one.
I'll come back and post an exploded diagram.
Do you have factory AC?
If not, proceed to remove the airbox and the air flow meter. Have a strong flashlight and a magnetic pickup tool handy. Stick your head into the engine compartment sideways, then turn your head so that you can look down onto the motor. Clean out the old dirt and oil (scrape first, then wipe with rubbing alcohol). Gently move the engine wiring harness aside while you remove the thermostat. The thermostat only goes back in one way, so there is no danger of installing it backwards.
Buy the green (viton) o-ring, not the red one.
#5
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Yup! On an SC, you have to drop the motor.
Replace the items in yellow. The diagram is from an SC, but the items are the same. Most likely, the breather cover gasket is not leaking, so you can skip this.
The airbox is easy to remove. Be careful when removing the electrical plug/connector from the air flow meter (it is the thing with the barn door that goes from the airbox to the throttle body). Do not pull on the wires, but grab it by the plastic connector. If you drop a nut or washer, pick it up with the magnetic tool.
Replace the items in yellow. The diagram is from an SC, but the items are the same. Most likely, the breather cover gasket is not leaking, so you can skip this.
The airbox is easy to remove. Be careful when removing the electrical plug/connector from the air flow meter (it is the thing with the barn door that goes from the airbox to the throttle body). Do not pull on the wires, but grab it by the plastic connector. If you drop a nut or washer, pick it up with the magnetic tool.
Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:07 AM.
#6
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These are the items that you remove: thermostat and the oil pressure switch. In this picture, the oil pressure switch is incorrectly labeled "oil temp sender". Also, the engine is out of the car so you don't see the engine harness, which is blocking the access to the thermostat in the car. You have to very gently move it to the side to get the thermostat out.
Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:07 AM.
#7
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Here a picture showing what to remove to get access to the top of the motor. It's just a handful of screws and bolts, and you only need a screwdriver and a small wrench.
On cars with factory AC, you will have trouble reaching the lower front clip on the airbox. You will need to reach this in order to take the airbox lid on and off. If you need to reach it but can't try this: loosen the lower three bolts (13mm socket with extension), and remove the ac belt. Then, you can remove the top 3 bolts, and set the compressor on top of the intake plenum. Now your arm will have room to reach under the airbox and loosen the airbox cover clip.
On cars with factory AC, you will have trouble reaching the lower front clip on the airbox. You will need to reach this in order to take the airbox lid on and off. If you need to reach it but can't try this: loosen the lower three bolts (13mm socket with extension), and remove the ac belt. Then, you can remove the top 3 bolts, and set the compressor on top of the intake plenum. Now your arm will have room to reach under the airbox and loosen the airbox cover clip.
Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:07 AM.
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#8
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Wow! You out did your self with these diagrams!! I actually ordered the parts yesterday before I posted here and I ordered the red o-ring. Can I still use it? Or should I order green one. Red one already shipped out.
thanks so much rusnak
thanks so much rusnak
#10
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Leo, when I uploaded the above pic, the graphics came out fuzzy ( I guess the web server compresses the photos).
I also forgot to mention that the oil thermostat sometimes sticks in the crankcase. You can pry it out carefully with a right-angle screwdriver. There is very little access in there. I'll post a photo of the little screwdriver that I used, or you can do a search for past threads on this. I used my soft socket to tighten the oil pres switch, after I take out the plastic insert. I think it's like a 24mm deep socket or something like that.
The red o-ring will work just fine, but the green one lasts longer. You have to clean all the plastic crumbly bits out of the groove. Don't let any dirt fall into the motor.
I also forgot to mention that the oil thermostat sometimes sticks in the crankcase. You can pry it out carefully with a right-angle screwdriver. There is very little access in there. I'll post a photo of the little screwdriver that I used, or you can do a search for past threads on this. I used my soft socket to tighten the oil pres switch, after I take out the plastic insert. I think it's like a 24mm deep socket or something like that.
The red o-ring will work just fine, but the green one lasts longer. You have to clean all the plastic crumbly bits out of the groove. Don't let any dirt fall into the motor.
#11
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One of these right angle screwdrivers will be a headache saver if your thermostat is stuck in the crankcase.
Last edited by rusnak; 03-05-2010 at 12:07 AM.
#14
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The thermostat is secured by two small nuts (see post #6). I think those screwdrivers are very cheap at Orchard Supply Hardware, so yes Sears probably has them in stock. You can probably find something similar at HF or Lowes. Try pulling on it first before buying anything. Your thermostat might come right out.
#15
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this might be a stupid question but here goes...the 2 nuts are holding down the themostat with the o-ring, correct? So, if im only replacing o-ring(thats holding down thermostat) why do I have to take themostat out in order to replace o-ring?
I might be over thinking this, im sure it will be more clear when im in there.
I might be over thinking this, im sure it will be more clear when im in there.