87MintTarga

Has anyone had an issue with warm start loss of power? Mine will run great from cold start with no issues. If I shut her down warm and then return to drive again before cool I experience moments of power loss and even stalling on occasion. Sometimes she won't start up without a few minutes of cranking. It seems like a fuel issue like air in the line. The car now has 47K original miles and until my business hit the skids I had it maintained by Farnbacher Loles in Danbury CT. Wife won't let me take her in for service because it's always a few grand. Any ideas?

Amber Gramps

Guessing we are talking about an '87 3.2? First place I would look would be for an intake vacuum leak. Try some brake cleaner on the intake manifold when warm and idling. Spray a small amount on each intake runner and around each injector. If the idle increases you may have a leak. If you spray too much it will get sucked into the filter and do the same so go sparingly. This can be done on the boot and on the ICV. come to think of it you could have a sticky ICV...

Welcome to rennlist ......and say good bye to your mechanic.

87MintTarga

Thanks for the welcome. Yes, it's the 3.2. Would the sticky ICV be constistent with great performance for the first start of the day? If she cools down sitting at work for the whole day, there is no issue for the ride home.

Amber Gramps

It sounds to me like a vacuum leak.

Our grand wizard is on vacation this week so I'm just shootin' from the hip.

87MintTarga

Thank you. I'm sure all the vacuum lines are original since I purchased the car six years ago with 15K miles. I'll check it out. It may be as simple as a cracked hose. I'll let you know what I come up with. I'm liking this list.

rusnak

Yep. I was going to say vac leak too. I wouldn't spray the aerosol fuel onto a really hot motor. You can let it idle from cold, then try it. Use a strong flashlight and a medium sized inspection mirror on the back of the throttle body to check the hose to the ambient air valve. You can take the airbox and airflow meter out to check the crankcase breather hoses. Finding vacuum leaks is like chasing mice through the walls. There is usually more than one.

87MintTarga

I finally got to look around in there and everything seemed in place. I tried the brake cleaner trick with no change in idle. Figured I'd do an oil change since it had been 5K and a year ago since the last one and wouldn't you know, the problem has gone away. I've had four days of aggressive driving since without a single stutter. All I can figure out is that maybe a sensor was being fouled by the dirty oil making the engine run too rich after warm. I'm not complaining and will never let the oil go that long again. Thanks for all your help.

theiceman

hmm.... what about CHT sensor .. doesn't that provide fedback to the DME indicating engine state in order to richen up or not > Sounds like with proper enrichment the car works fine .. I am more of a CIS guy than a motronics guy ..
If i were a CIS I would say fuel pump check valve or fuel accumulator for sure is it doesn't sound like warm start fuel pressure is being maintained.. I don't know what the equivalants of these on DME cars are ...

motorbikebias

I've been back reading all the posts and may resurrect old ones so please bear with me.

I recently had the same issue and after extensive troubleshooting I finally realized it was the engine head temp sensor. ( <100 bucks). Hope this info may help someone else too.