David0514

Hi, I was wondering what I need to do a valve adjustment. My family is away and I have the option at work to take the day off. I already have the valve gaskets, replacement nuts, and adjusting tool. I will need to get oil and a filter. I do not have a pulley wrench (I think it is called) to do all that top dead center stuff. Is there anyway else I can do this without one or is it a necessity. Do I need anything else? I do not what to take the day off and not have the stuff to complete. Realistically, should I be able to complete in a day for a first timer. Do I need a torque wrench?
Thanks.

Trak Ratt

The keyed wrench is actually to hold the pulley, which holds the engine while tightening the nut. Just use a regular wrench to turn the nut. It’s a lot easier if the plugs are out & gives you a chance to check them too. Another way is to jack car up, turn tire w/transmission in gear. Again easier if plugs are out. The whole job is easier the higher you get the back end so you should have the wheels off the ground anyway. Don’t start w/out at least one back up (extra blade or feeler gage) to the factory tool. They break real easy!

Rick C

For your first valve adjustment, you might want to leave the plugs in to avoid dropping anything into the hole. Seems to happen a lot. Engine will still turn with a bit more force. If you do take them out, be careful of the nuts, washers, or any old gasket goop from a PO. (Don't need any goop, but some people use it anyway.)

Marcesq

David:

You will need a 3/8" torque wrench for the valve cover nuts (9 n/m I think). Overtightening will lead to premature leaking.

When adjusting the valves you can use a 22mm socket on the fan nut to turn the engine Clockwise ONLY.

I have .004 and .005 feeler guages ready when doing the adjustment. Once adjusted, if I can get the .005 in at all, I readjust.

Good luck.

GratefulJED

Is there a DIY on HOW to do a valve adjustment somewhere?? Thanks

Alan Herod

I have heard all the arguments for not pulling the plugs, but tend to agree with David. My engine will not turn over via the fan pulley and there is no wrench that is going on the crank pulley. The higher the compression of your engine, the more difficult it will be to rotate your engine. (Note: I said compression, not compression ratio) As David suggested, I jack up the rear of the car, remove the valve covers and follow the procedures (pretty much) which are outlined on Pelican parts. Very straight forward, your crank pulley is marked at 120 degree intervals, with Z1 being the place to begin. Start on #1 cylinder, distributor rotor pointed at #1 and the crank pulley aligned at Z1. Adjust #1, rotate 120 degrees, adjust valves for the next cylinder. follow firing order identified on engine compartment plate. Two 360 rotations of the engine will get you through the entire cycle. I then rotate through again checking my work.

Since the engine does not turn over via the fan pulley, I remove both rear wheels, and bolt a plywood 'X' bracket to one of the rear wheels which prevents that wheel from turning because it is in contact with the ground, put the car in gear, and push forward on the top of the wheel that will still rotate -- fourth gear the engine rotates very slowly relative to the movement of the wheel.

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MM83targa

[quote]Originally posted by Marcesq:
<strong>David:

When adjusting the valves you can use a 22mm socket on the fan nut to turn the engine Clockwise ONLY.

</strong><hr></blockquote>

The fan nut is SIGNIFICANTLY larger than 22mm.

jet911

Yep, believe it is a 24mm socket.

Regards,
Jim
'86 911

Wil R. Ferch

Hint:
Turn motor at 240 degree intervals..and you can stay on the same side of the engine.
firing order is 1-6-2-4-3-5. 1-2-3 is on one side...and 4-5-6- on the other side. If uyou turn the crank at 240 degrees instesd of 120 degrees, you can stay on one side of the engine ( by going to every-other cylinder in the firing order)instead of jumping back and forth....a pain.
---Wil Ferch