Mark J

Had kinda asked this elsewhere but didnt really get any firm answers.

Picked my new toy up last night it runs great but imo sounds a bit lame compared to my cup bypassed 964.

I want that flat six snarl from my exhausts not a dull drone that makes me feel like i am in a plane, at 80mph onwards.

Have contacted a UK parts shop and they recommend this:-

http://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod17...-911-1974-89_2

but not sure they are getting my drift, when i say i want it sounding racey i dont necessarily mean 'deep' which this one describes itself as. 'Deep' just makes me think i will get a louder drone than already got. I want 'snarl' !
As always my desire for a race sound has also to be tempered by the need to be able to use it as a euro GT tourer too and pass UK track noise restrictions.

Is a rear sports box replacement my answer? do i need a cat bypass too? is a full system the way to go? (tho pricey!)

Anyone got soundclips/vids of their systems or exhaust mods ? Experiences?
There seem to be so many exhaust options that its hard to know whats best to go for.

84_Carrera

Twin-outs always sound awesome to me & Ben at M&K makes some good mufflers. I have one of his 1-in / 1-out & it's nice w/ no packing. I also have a Fabspeed premuffler.

I get Vette-guy compliments when I go Pre-muffler / Muffler Bypass setup though.

John@Fabspeed

Make sure to also check out the Fabspeed Exhaust setup for your car. We have the Maxflo mufflers available in a single outlet or a Dual outlet for more sporty sound and power. This system has No drone, Fits like Stock, Saves weight and sounds sporty without being too loud. Sound Clips below.
Thanks and let me know if you have any questions.

Videos:
Dual Outlet- http://www.fabspeed.com/videos/911Sc...%20Muffler.wmv
Single Outlet- http://www.fabspeed.com/videos/911Sc...%20Muffler.wmv
Catbypass Pipe and Muffler Bypass Pipe- http://www.fabspeed.com/videos/911%2...0Catbypass.wmv

theiceman

wow, cool sounds ...

Mark J

Wow, thanks Alex, thats very useful, am liking the sound of those mufflers, particulary the twin outlet, great sound . Any idea on Db levels using those ?
I think i would probably go for the single muffler (to avoid cutting) and cat bypass pipe. Do they require the rest of the system to be stainless steel? ie is there a problem marrying up s/s to the factory mild steel headers/heat exchangers ?
Do you have a UK supplier ?

John@Fabspeed

Sorry I dont have any DB readings of the system but it will bolt right on to the factory heat exchanger and work perfectly. We include all new hardware and gaskets with the catbypass pipe so it bolts on nicely.
We ship worldwide so you can get directly from us.
Thanks,

Mark J

Thanks Alex, i am guessing that shipping is going to cost a fair whack from the states to the UK for both components ? Is there a customs duty ontop of that too ? Might just push it all out of my budget for the moment which would be a shame. Could you pm me a price all in ?
Happy to spread the word in the UK with some stickers

Took a quick couple of pics underside last night. The connection back from the cat looks pretty surface corroded. Does anyone foresee any probs looking at them or is that fairly normal for exhaust parts on these older cars? The rear box and other ancillaries look in remarkably good shape.

theiceman

The exhaust iteself will be a piece of cake, don't waste any time on the nuts and bolts and just zip them off. I have a compressor so i just used a die cutter and it took about half an hour. You can try wrenches and stuff and hope they snap. you will be putting new hardware on anyway and if it snaps the bolt that is the quickest way off. Removing the drivers rear wheel will make the bolts in theire a lot easier. You can use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel also but that may take a while...
The only ones to worry about are the barrel nuts and regular nuts holding the exchangers to the heads. Lots of threads on how to do that so seach here or on pelican .. or better yet leave the exchanagers and just replace everything else.

PS looks like you haven't had a valve adjustment for a LONG time based on the hardware on your valave covers.

Mark J

Thanks iceman. Is the double sized flange in the second photo the end of the CAT assembly / heat exchanger? I can see that u-clamp further along so a bit unsure. Not had time to get familiar with this cars parts layout yet. Anyone got a schematic for the exhaust parts ? That double flange with 8 rusted bolts looks a real pita to get apart...blow torch and cutter time

The valves were done in 06 from what i could tell from the history, not sure how many miles it has done since then, will check. What is the recommended interval between valve clearance checks for these cars then? is it time or mileage based?
Also OT, but while we're down there ... whats that rather sad looking rubber bush and rusty bolt assembly further back in the second photo on the left side? Is that the rear sway bar mount? Looks in need of some attention.

Bit like my 964, its a whole murky underworld underneath these cars that look so pristine from the wheels up ! If i had the money and time i would strip and clean every nut,part and bolt under there.

84_Carrera

Yes, that looks like your drop link.

Your crossover pipe setup from the pass side to the driver's is different from my '84's. Dunno what year you have, if that's normal or what, but doesn't appear to be to me.

You don't have a cat, FWIW. You have a test pipe already, where the cat would be over here in the states.

Get all new bolts ready if you decide to do that project. You'll need them. Guessing it'll be easier to snap them off (intentionally over-tighten) than to try to loosen them & strip them. That's a lot of corrosion on the fasteners. Go with new stainless bolts. They cost me about $25 for all new stainless nuts, bolts, washers here. If you do ever decide to drop your exchangers, use a lot of penetrant over a number of applications... yours aren't pretty & you don't want to snap something there.

Agree with Clive on this one - from the oxidation on the cover nuts & the amount of seepage on the cover gaskets, I'd guess 5+ years on a valve adjust. It's mileage more than time, 10-15k mile intervals for a 3.2L is what I go by, or annually, essentially, given my driving.

Mark J

Ah, i was thinking that looked like just a piece of straight pipe where the cat should be ! hmm, how come it still sounds pretty lame then? Must be the rear muffler design.

Re the valves, according to the history the valves were actually 'replaced' in '06 i think. Will do some investigating when i get home. Would not bode well if they havent been touched for as long as you think they might. Dont forget we get dreaded road salt throughout the winter here in the UK so our undersides take a real bashing.

John@Fabspeed

Mark, PM sent and we include all new Hardware, Copper Lock nuts and Copper Gaskets for an easy and clean installation.
Thanks,

ricster

WOW!! Lots of corrosion on the exhaust and esp the sway bar and drop links. My car looks brand new under there in comparisson.

Mark J

Yeah make me feel good Ricster why dont ya like i said....Road salt, and plenty of it ! I am guessing that pipe is pretty damn old, whereas the rear muffler looks reasonably new. Think it was all replaced in '02.
I want it out anyway as dont like the stock drone sounds. My only fear is what condition the heat exchange/headers are in. Will shimmy under and look properly tonight.

Thanks for the pm Alex, will take a look and see.(not read it yet).

theiceman

Mark i disassembled and replaced all the hardware because i was bored one day .. took about a half a day and i did as Fred sugested and put all stainless hardware on and all new gaskets. My underside does not look that much different than yours.
The exchangers are already pretty well headers so don't mess with those if you don't have to .. only tears can result from that ..
But from the exchangers back you can refurb it quite nicely in an afternoon , then you are more prepared fo rthe new exhast. You do of course have a by pass. I took mine off , sanded it and painted it black with BBQ paint since i had it off anyway . i am amazed it still looks pretty good. Once youget that wheel off I think you will be fine.
Thoose valves as you say are about 3 years , and as Fred points out about 10 -15K is the cecking time. make sure you buy a whole kit that has new gaskets , washers, and nuts. They use a special aluminium washer to prevent seapage ...

And yes that is your rear drop link . Very easy to replace and not that expensive. You can replace the inboard rubber while you are at it and repaint your sway bar ... about an afternoons work ..

As far as the sound goes i just think differently.. I alread drive a 911 . I don't need anybody looking at me. i think the stock sound is just nice , does not atract attention and is very Porsche recognisable .. and I wouldn't want it to sound any other way ... to each his own though ..