Help with 84 carrera....possible purchase?
#1
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Hi there,
Is this a decent year? How is the reliability of this year's model? I know the SC engines can run forever. This car is all original, 1984, 135k miles, they are asking 16,900. Any thoughts and opinions?
Is this a decent year? How is the reliability of this year's model? I know the SC engines can run forever. This car is all original, 1984, 135k miles, they are asking 16,900. Any thoughts and opinions?
#2
I haddah Google dat
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It's basically a 911SC with a Bosch L Jetronic (Motronic) engine management system. It's easier to work on and diagnose than an SC. You might seriously want to buy Pete's book. Depending on your mechanical knowledge, get a pre-purchase inspection before you agree on price, and let the purchase be subject to the results. Is it a California car? Is there a smog test that you can view for the car? There is a ton of stuff to check out on these cars. That price is on the low side for a good 911.
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If there is a weak spot in the engine, it's the top end. At 135k, it's possible the engine has had some valve work done by the PO. he bottom end is likely fine. But definitely get some service records at the minimum and preferably a PPI
#4
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[QUOTE=rusnak;6736049]It's basically a 911SC with a Bosch L Jetronic (Motronic) engine management system. QUOTE]
Well, it also has a 3.2 (200hp vs. 172 or so of the SC), which does give some more torque through the rev range. Also it has the carrera tensioners, although most if not all SCs have been updated by now....the bigger displacement helps so I thought it's worthy as a mention.
Generally a good solid 911- if it checks out on inspection the 3.0 and 3.2's are great cars....and if you buy it right only cost will be maintence as depreciation will be small or zero at this point. There are worse "toys" to buy than a '78-'89 911
Well, it also has a 3.2 (200hp vs. 172 or so of the SC), which does give some more torque through the rev range. Also it has the carrera tensioners, although most if not all SCs have been updated by now....the bigger displacement helps so I thought it's worthy as a mention.
Generally a good solid 911- if it checks out on inspection the 3.0 and 3.2's are great cars....and if you buy it right only cost will be maintence as depreciation will be small or zero at this point. There are worse "toys" to buy than a '78-'89 911
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I have an '84 - 3.2s are great cars, just make sure to get a PPI w/ leakdowns on the engine from a reputable shop. If you don't know of one, just post here w/ your location and someone is bound to chime in.
I would definitely read the sticky in this forum that Pete posted, has very valuable info.
'84-'86 911s w/ the 915 tranny are great cars, basically the same setup as the SC's but w/ more power and better brain. '84 is a bit different than '85-'86 b/c some of them have the trombone vs finned oil cooler up front which isn't as efficient - but not that bad.
Don't forget, get a PPI, don't be cheap.
I would definitely read the sticky in this forum that Pete posted, has very valuable info.
'84-'86 911s w/ the 915 tranny are great cars, basically the same setup as the SC's but w/ more power and better brain. '84 is a bit different than '85-'86 b/c some of them have the trombone vs finned oil cooler up front which isn't as efficient - but not that bad.
Don't forget, get a PPI, don't be cheap.
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For that kind of money, you certainly can get into a 1987-1989 911. The last of the breed with the G50 transmission.
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...and another '84 owner here.
Just did another valve adjust this weekend, 101k miles. I have been stranded 3 times - cylinder head temp sensor (did it myself), clutch cable slipped out of the bracket at the trans side & I couldn't get to it (5 minutes after getting off the flatbed I had it fixed), and my known-going pressure plate finally let go. The only other time I sweated it was when the ignition switch went & I had to push-start to get home.
I don't think twice about taking this car ANYWHERE. Back in April I ran from RI to Deals Gap (TN / NC line) for a fun-run with the R Gruppe guys, had a blast, and made 26-27mpg on the return home... an EASY couple thousand miles in a long weekend, through brutal rain on the way down, then tearing up the twisties on US-129 / Tail of the Dragon. Try doing that with say, an 80's Ferrari, with the confidence I mention.
Mine's putting 213 to the wheels, with a (bad) chip, a Fabspeed pre-muffler, and an M&K muffler. I removed the AC, it's fairly useless & to me, the 70 pounds is better removed from the car anyway, especially when you have an open-air version like my Cab. I'm able to do most of my own repairs as it's a pretty simple car to work on for the most part, gives you a feeling like no other car in the world.
My 84 has manual seats, but power windows, manual soft-top. I've done a suspension upgrade to her as well, which has proven very rewarding over the past couple of years. My only serious wish with this particular car?
Option Code 220... Limited Slip.
Just did another valve adjust this weekend, 101k miles. I have been stranded 3 times - cylinder head temp sensor (did it myself), clutch cable slipped out of the bracket at the trans side & I couldn't get to it (5 minutes after getting off the flatbed I had it fixed), and my known-going pressure plate finally let go. The only other time I sweated it was when the ignition switch went & I had to push-start to get home.
I don't think twice about taking this car ANYWHERE. Back in April I ran from RI to Deals Gap (TN / NC line) for a fun-run with the R Gruppe guys, had a blast, and made 26-27mpg on the return home... an EASY couple thousand miles in a long weekend, through brutal rain on the way down, then tearing up the twisties on US-129 / Tail of the Dragon. Try doing that with say, an 80's Ferrari, with the confidence I mention.
Mine's putting 213 to the wheels, with a (bad) chip, a Fabspeed pre-muffler, and an M&K muffler. I removed the AC, it's fairly useless & to me, the 70 pounds is better removed from the car anyway, especially when you have an open-air version like my Cab. I'm able to do most of my own repairs as it's a pretty simple car to work on for the most part, gives you a feeling like no other car in the world.
My 84 has manual seats, but power windows, manual soft-top. I've done a suspension upgrade to her as well, which has proven very rewarding over the past couple of years. My only serious wish with this particular car?
Option Code 220... Limited Slip.
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#13
I haddah Google dat
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I had a clutch cable break once in Salinas/ Monterey. I got home by matching the engine speed w gear speed. I had to start from a dead stop in 1rst to get rolling, but once started, it was fairly easy to get home. These cars are fantastic.
#14
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I also agree that the '84s are good cars. You might want to drive a 915 car vs. a G-50 car to see if the difference is important to you. I think the car in question is priced a little high. I own an '88 that was purchased new and well-maintained by my father until I took it off his hands. It started smoking due to worn valve guides right at 129,000 miles. If the car you're looking at needs the top end rebuild it will probably be $8000-10,000 unless, unlike me, you can do the work yourself. Good luck!