aeshultz

OK- first, search didn't do it for me. So my question;
Do you need to break open the hard lines/ rubber line to remove the calibers on an '88? Bot hthe front and rear have a short hard line from the caliper to a solid tab on the strut/ trailing arm, where the connection to the rubber line is made. Each tab has a clip to hold them in place, but the tab itself has no slot - the rubber/hard line junction passes through teh tab.
Do I have to break open the system to remove the caliper?
T.I.A.

cal44

Explain what your goal is. What are doing that you need to remove the caliper/s.

aeshultz

Cal;
First goal is the replace rotors - from the looks of it, I need to break open the system (drain fluid, then flush/ rebleed) to be able to swing the caliper out of the way. I thought you could unclip the brake lines to pull the caliper back (at least, the 944s work that way).
What am I missing here?

Edit; a Pelican tech article recommended blocking the brake pedal down to keep from losing fliud (when opening the system w/o completely draining it) Any experience with this? does this work? Thanks.

cal44

Hey Allan, yep for alot of things. If you push down the brake pedal and keep it down with a 1"x2" or such the fluid will not continue to drip, works great. I put cloth between the wood and the front of the seat so damage does not occur.
Yep, I remove the brake line when I pull the caliper. While you are at it check those rubber brake lines. It is a cheap fix to have great braking. Just because they look good on the outside......don't be fooled. You will also need to pull apart the brake pad sensor wires. I followed the Bentley book.

aeshultz

OK- that's what I thought. I do have new braided lines (yes, I know), so they'd have to come apart eventually.
The only "manual" that I've got is the Wayne Dempsey "101 Projects", which is next to useless. I've come to count on Rennlist to answeer most questions <G>. I've been away in water-cooled land for a few years now.
Thanks.

wildcat077

Like Cal 44 says,just jam the brake pedal down a few inches and you won't have any leaks from the line
when you separate them to remove the caliper. 13 and 11 mm wrenches to separate the lines !
I had to remove the calipers today when i was doing my front strut replacements... now the outer tie rod end... that's another story ... lol

Ed Hughes

First of all, if you search with the right spelling-CALIPER-you may get better results.

To block the pedal down, don't go more than an inch or two, that is all that is needed.

The 101 projects book is not intended as a service manual. Do yourself a favor and get the Bentley book, it is much more comprehensive.

rusnak

I do mine the lazy man's way. I usually leave the hard line connected because those fittings are a PITA. I have a coil of thin wire or twine that I use for stuff like this. Just tie the caliper up and hang it until you are ready to re-connect. However, it's probably better to disconnect them.

You may have difficulty with the upper 12mm bolt. It's best to start with a socket, then switch to fingers. You may have to jiggle the caliper to get the bolt to all the way off.

Remember to order the brake pad wear sensors, and check the condition of your rubber brake lines. Do not retract the brake pistons too far or you will think that your brake system still has air in it when really it's the pads are traveling too far to contact the rotors.

rnln

no I didn't have to. Get some metal wire hanger, or metal line to hang the caliper after taken off.

aeshultz

Ed -the search was spelled correctly - the title was not. My bad. I've spent a bunch of years messing with air cooled / water cooled / mid/ front / rear engined P-cars - I'd just forgotten some of the tricks to this "old" model <G>.
Rusnak - Great photos, thanks. The lower bolt on the rears are "fun", I'm guessing a 19mm open end (which I don't have - yet) does the trick.
Thanks to all.

whalebird

I always use a short bungee cord to hang the caliper.