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Old 05-25-2009, 03:27 PM
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PilotFrog
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Default Advised Upgrades?

I just took the engine out of my 82 Targa and now would like some advise on upgrades people thinks should be done. I've added a list of things I think I should do and what has been done. Please feel free to add or tell me what isn't worth it, thanks. Car is mainly a pleasure drive, and I might do a little AutoX in it when done. Not looking for a screaming fast car, but maybe a little faster than stock.



Done:
Oil fed tensioners
Steel brake lines
Pop-off Valve
Turbo Tie Rod
Turbo Valve Covers

To Do:
MSD ignition
Bushings? (not sure on current condition of them, didn't inspect)
Torsion bars?
Lighter Starter
Lighter flywheel?
New Clutch?
Port and Polish?
Carrera Oil Cooler?
SSI Header & Muffler?

Again anything is helpfull, thanks.

Last edited by PilotFrog; 05-25-2009 at 03:43 PM.
Old 05-25-2009, 05:27 PM
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Ed Hughes
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Unless you're taking the engine apart, the port and polish won't be a big priority. Even then, unless you have someone who knows what they're doing, I'm not sure on this one unless it was coupled with some cams and other engine tweaks as a package.

Bushings-if yours haven't been changed, you will be amazed at how the car will feel with new ones. I'd also recommend looking at new shocks.

T-bars are good if you're tracking regularly. If you're just getting started in AX, then just do bushings and shocks until you're crazy to improve the car further.

While the engine is out is obviously a great time to do the clutch if it needs it. I did the light Sachs clutch with a lighter pressure plate-I like it. A light flywheel will totally change the behavior of your motor. I'd not do that for your needs.

As to Carrera coolers, I'll defer to SC guys. One thing you should do is to take your engine cooler off and get it cleaned and tested.

Headers are a great mod for our cars.

All the thermostat, etc seals are easier to replace with the engine out. Clean up your engine bay and perhaps change your soundpad. Check your trans and motor mounts-replace if they look a little worse for the wear.
Old 05-25-2009, 05:28 PM
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Ed Hughes
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I did replace my starter with the light weight/high torque model, it is a nice weight savings.
Old 05-25-2009, 05:47 PM
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PilotFrog
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I knew you would reply and looked forward to it.

I am a little confused on which engine cooler to take off and test. The trombone pieces under the right front fender?

Soundpad is already out and trying to decide what to replace it with. Dad put some dynamat in his restored Volvo but not sure that is heat resistant. Another foam pad or is there a better replacement part?

I do plan on bushings but have to admit i don't know which to do. All of em? Is there a kit that has them all included? WDs book only talks about sway bar bushings.

Mounts looked good as far as i could tell. I'll remember to inspect next time. Car is in Ohio, i'm in NJ. Thanks again.
Old 05-25-2009, 06:41 PM
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rusnak
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Since you have a 911SC with CIS injection, definitely, and I mean DEFINITELY replace the thermostat o-ring, oil pressure sender, and if you can get to it without removing other stuff, the oil breather cover gasket. If you can't then skip the breather gasket. Get the green o-ring not the red.

I'd focus on maintenance items such as inspect and repack CV joints (get new schoor washers and 4 new gaskets), replace bunged up bolts with new ones to make the job easier next time, replace leaky hoses, maybe valve adjustment which is easier with the engine out, and check your vacuum hoses and crankcase breather hoses for cracks.
Old 05-25-2009, 07:18 PM
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GothingNC
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How many miles on the motor?

I would replace all the CIS injector o-rings, sleeve and intake gaskets.
Replace rubber fuel lines and vacuum lines
Clean injectors
New throw out bearing with the clutch


John
Old 05-25-2009, 07:21 PM
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GothingNC
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Also repaint the shroud, powder coat the intake runners...

Last edited by GothingNC; 02-09-2010 at 01:31 PM.
Old 05-26-2009, 12:29 AM
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Ed Hughes
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www.elephantracing.com is the place to go for bushings. They have a fairly new rubber kit out, and they also make a poly-bronze unit that many love. You'll be looking at fronts and rears.

The oil cooler I referred to mounts on the passenger side of the motor. There are three rubber seals that can and do leak at some point. I had mine cleaned and pressure tested when I rebuilt my engine, and I had a couple of pinhole leaks.
Old 05-26-2009, 08:55 PM
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Great info, thanks. Bump
Old 05-26-2009, 10:20 PM
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Sounds like most things are covered . A lot of that stufff has nothing to do with the engine out really and can be done at any time. i definitely second the thermostat and air breather cover and switch , along with a complete refresh of the CIS incuding all the items John mentioned. Took me a couple of days to do mine but was totally worth it . Inspect your air box carefully for cracks. I know you put a pop off valve in it but check the box carefully anyway.

The one thing not mentioned are the throttle bushings on the plate fastened to the shroud. Those bushings get beat up pretty good so make sure to check them while the engine is out.

Last edited by theiceman; 01-09-2013 at 10:14 AM.
Old 05-26-2009, 10:27 PM
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btw the link is on the wrong side of the bracket in my pic .. what a pain in the *** THAT mistake was !!!
Old 05-27-2009, 09:32 AM
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One thing you didn't mention in your list, if the engine is coming apart plan on replacing your head studs while it's down! Personally I would do the SSI's and muffler combo, change the cam and skip on the head porting. You will spend big bucks on the heads for diminishing returns. You should plan on having the heads rebuilt while they're off. I used anchor atlantic in new jersey, and the quality of the rebuild made my brand new cylinders look bad. I can't say enough about anchor. Steve W on the west coast does good work too .Leave some money budgeted in case the pistons and cylinders are out of spec because they are expensive and you don't want to skimp there. Do some research on cams... It has been a while since I researched, but I believe a few years ago people were using 964 cams with CIS injection and it was working pretty well.
Porsche flywheels are already pretty light, so there is not much to gain there. Like Ed said, check into the Sachs power clutch with aluminum pressure plate, people seem to really like them.

Did you find a shop in ohio to do your work?
Old 05-27-2009, 12:39 PM
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PilotFrog
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I spoke to Uri who runs The Garaj in Southern Dayton. I think I am going to use him. We are going to start with a leak check, and work from there. If it needs a tear down we will, but if not, why bother. Thanks all for the info. Can't wait to get into it. Damn work is getting in the way.
Old 05-31-2009, 10:08 AM
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shift bushings. clean ground connection at transmission. replace any suspect fuel lines. send starter to overhaul shop if you don't replace it. make sure you install the adell clamps on the pressure feed oil lines. check for updated parts on the oil pressure springs. do a compression test and leak down test and if numbers are ok leave it alone. think about backdating the heater. that has upsides and down sides. be carefull and don't drop anything into any open ports. keep em all covered. be prepared for broken exhaust studs when you remove the heat exchangers. No biggie as long as you can turn the engine over, which brings up the question, you are going to use an engine stand, right? Have fun, take your time, don't do any work after the third beer!
Old 06-23-2009, 11:15 PM
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Working on the car again and removed the front bumper the other day. I was wondering if anyone can tell me about the piece of metal on the passenger side of the bumper. There isn't a coresponding one on the driver's side, and I don't understand the extra weight. Thanks


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