no oil on garage floor
06-07-2001, 02:48 AM
#1
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no oil on garage floor
I have an some oil seapage on the bottom of my engine. My pcar has 110k miles and runs strong. I do not burn any oil, the car does not smoke. I am wondering if I should plan on pulling the engine out this winter and installing new seals. The motor has never been opened up. So should I go into the motor and rebuild it? Or should I leave the car alone and just enjoy it until I start to have more severe leaks.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
06-07-2001, 05:10 AM
#2
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Do you know the location of the oil seapage? Is it simply evident on the engine casing or is it dripping onto the floor? If it isn't dripping or fresh, I wouldn't be too concerned, if it is try using some form of oil tray placed under the engine to locate the source.
Next time the car is near a shop you could have a hydrocarbon test done, which gives a rough idea of the condition inside your engine - Low hydrocarbons shows that the engine is performing more efficientley and in good nick - high results suggest low efficiency and wear.
Regards
Next time the car is near a shop you could have a hydrocarbon test done, which gives a rough idea of the condition inside your engine - Low hydrocarbons shows that the engine is performing more efficientley and in good nick - high results suggest low efficiency and wear.
Regards
06-07-2001, 10:04 AM
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Tony,
First, when you check you oil level, on a flat surface and round 180-190 degrees oil temp, is the oil about half way between the two marks on the oil dipstick? If you have it filled to the top mark, that's too much, and can leak out.
Assuming that your oil level is OK, take a look and see if you can isolate where the leakage is coming from. There are several places that can leak oil that can be fixed without taking the engine out. Take a look at the oil return tubes that connect the heads with the bottom of the engine. They run above the heat exchangers. If they are leaking they can be replaced with a two part adjustable oil return tube, which is available from Porsche. Is oil leaking from the very back of the engine by the lower fan belt pulley? That seal can be replaced also. If there are leaks coming from your valve covers, you can retorque them to the appropriate values to see if that helps. Is the rubber hose between the oil tank and engine leaking, or is oil leaking from any oil line joint?
So, there's some ideas...let us know what you find out.
First, when you check you oil level, on a flat surface and round 180-190 degrees oil temp, is the oil about half way between the two marks on the oil dipstick? If you have it filled to the top mark, that's too much, and can leak out.
Assuming that your oil level is OK, take a look and see if you can isolate where the leakage is coming from. There are several places that can leak oil that can be fixed without taking the engine out. Take a look at the oil return tubes that connect the heads with the bottom of the engine. They run above the heat exchangers. If they are leaking they can be replaced with a two part adjustable oil return tube, which is available from Porsche. Is oil leaking from the very back of the engine by the lower fan belt pulley? That seal can be replaced also. If there are leaks coming from your valve covers, you can retorque them to the appropriate values to see if that helps. Is the rubber hose between the oil tank and engine leaking, or is oil leaking from any oil line joint?
So, there's some ideas...let us know what you find out.
06-07-2001, 12:32 PM
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I think Bill hit it right on the head. I would evaluate the leaks and try to make a decision from there. If the car is running fine i see no reason in rebuilding the motor. If it is an early motor I would consider upgrading valve covers. The early ones had some warping problems. As far as dropping the motor. It really is a fairly easy job. I had oil leaks and dropped my motor to fix them. It gave me the opportunity to work on all the leaks while on a stand and also do a good job of cleaning the entire motor. Just dont switch the Permatume wires around. haha Good luck.
06-07-2001, 03:46 PM
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Tony I was in the same situation you were last fall. Has several oil leaks, but good compression and engine ran well. Dropped the engine over the winter to fix the easy leaks: oil return tubes, oil thermostat, front and rear seals and installed turbo valve covers. Unfortunately I also have a case leak. I won't bother to fix that until I need an engine rebuild. I just live with the leak.
06-07-2001, 04:20 PM
#6
I'm in the process of fixing some oil leaks on my car (85 930). I also had oil on the engine case and oil lines. The leaks where not bad, oil would on occasion hit the floor of my garage. While the engine was in the car is was difficult to tell where the oil was comming from. However once the engine was out it was fairly obvious. I have leaks at the flywheel seal the oil thermostat a couple of the oil lines and the front pully. While I have the engine out I'm going to do the valves and detail the motor..
It took about two days to remove the motor. Given that this was the first time I've done it I'm certain I could do it in a day or less now that I know where things are.
Good luck,
-LeoD
It took about two days to remove the motor. Given that this was the first time I've done it I'm certain I could do it in a day or less now that I know where things are.
Good luck,
-LeoD
06-08-2001, 02:45 AM
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110K? a 88 3.2 motor is just broken in!!, Well not quite but, these things will go a long, long time. I think that Bill and Greg are right. My 84 started some slow seapage that dripped down on the exchangers, Oil drain tubes!, get the expandable type yank the old ones out with channel locks and slide the new ones in. (oh yea, don't forget about that 12 quarts of oil in there...) another common leak is at the rear of the engine at the oil thermostat. Sometimes it is easier to drop the motor out and investigate with the whole thing on the garage floor rather than crawling into the engine with a mag light in your mouth. Excellence had a good article about 911 leak patrol a couple of months back, they can be leak free with a bit of work. Good luck!
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06-09-2001, 08:36 AM
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Originally posted by Bill Gregory:
<STRONG>Tony,
First, when you check you oil level, on a flat surface and round 180-190 degrees oil temp, is the oil about half way between the two marks on the oil dipstick? If you have it filled to the top mark, that's too much, and can leak out.
Assuming that your oil level is OK, take a look and see if you can isolate where the leakage is coming from. There are several places that can leak oil that can be fixed without taking the engine out. Take a look at the oil return tubes that connect the heads with the bottom of the engine. They run above the heat exchangers. If they are leaking they can be replaced with a two part adjustable oil return tube, which is available from Porsche. Is oil leaking from the very back of the engine by the lower fan belt pulley? That seal can be replaced also. If there are leaks coming from your valve covers, you can retorque them to the appropriate values to see if that helps. Is the rubber hose between the oil tank and engine leaking, or is oil leaking from any oil line joint?
So, there's some ideas...let us know what you find out.</STRONG>
<STRONG>Tony,
First, when you check you oil level, on a flat surface and round 180-190 degrees oil temp, is the oil about half way between the two marks on the oil dipstick? If you have it filled to the top mark, that's too much, and can leak out.
Assuming that your oil level is OK, take a look and see if you can isolate where the leakage is coming from. There are several places that can leak oil that can be fixed without taking the engine out. Take a look at the oil return tubes that connect the heads with the bottom of the engine. They run above the heat exchangers. If they are leaking they can be replaced with a two part adjustable oil return tube, which is available from Porsche. Is oil leaking from the very back of the engine by the lower fan belt pulley? That seal can be replaced also. If there are leaks coming from your valve covers, you can retorque them to the appropriate values to see if that helps. Is the rubber hose between the oil tank and engine leaking, or is oil leaking from any oil line joint?
So, there's some ideas...let us know what you find out.</STRONG>
06-10-2001, 03:36 AM
#9
Burning Brakes
I'm going to go with "leaking oil thermostat for 1000".
Pressure leaks are definately much harder to find than gravity leaks. That, added with all of the turbulance from driving, the leaking oil can end up anywhere/everywhere...making it that much harder to track down.
Clean it up as best you can....(degreaser)...then start it, let it run for a while and check again. Sometimes this will help. If it appears to be coming from somewhere around the #6 clyinder then it is most likely either fault oil cooler seals, oil thermostat O ring (very common) or the oil presure switch (next to thermostat).
By supporting the engine with a jack, and removing the two rear engine mounts you can "partially lower" the engine enough to get a peek at whats going on back there. The thermostat and switch are just to the righ of the crankcase breather housing, behind the fuel injection system.
I would think it would be fairly easy to identify if one of the oil return tubes was leaking by cleaning it up and watching it.
but the stuff ontop, that drips everywhere is a pain to diagnose.
Best of luck,
Pressure leaks are definately much harder to find than gravity leaks. That, added with all of the turbulance from driving, the leaking oil can end up anywhere/everywhere...making it that much harder to track down.
Clean it up as best you can....(degreaser)...then start it, let it run for a while and check again. Sometimes this will help. If it appears to be coming from somewhere around the #6 clyinder then it is most likely either fault oil cooler seals, oil thermostat O ring (very common) or the oil presure switch (next to thermostat).
By supporting the engine with a jack, and removing the two rear engine mounts you can "partially lower" the engine enough to get a peek at whats going on back there. The thermostat and switch are just to the righ of the crankcase breather housing, behind the fuel injection system.
I would think it would be fairly easy to identify if one of the oil return tubes was leaking by cleaning it up and watching it.
but the stuff ontop, that drips everywhere is a pain to diagnose.
Best of luck,
