Ugh... Lost a nut...
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I'm in the middle of resealing Ed Hughes' old gold BBS RS wheels...
...and I'm one 12-point M7x1.0 nut short. Ugh. I only bought new bolts, not new nuts to go with them. I'll see if I can grab one at Fastenal or something tomorrow. I was hoping to finish them up tonight too. Figures.
...and I'm one 12-point M7x1.0 nut short. Ugh. I only bought new bolts, not new nuts to go with them. I'll see if I can grab one at Fastenal or something tomorrow. I was hoping to finish them up tonight too. Figures.
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Nosub, in days gone by I would have posted the pic of the operation to remove one's ********. I do believe that'd be instant banishment now (not that it's a bad thing, I just like keeping my options open).
Instead a cell pic of the one wheel that's done & mounted. I did finish the other 3 tonight, using a different nut.
Instead a cell pic of the one wheel that's done & mounted. I did finish the other 3 tonight, using a different nut.
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They make anything look sexy, really.
I have some rare (for my bolt pattern) Mille Miglia MM11's for my Taurus SHO, which I had powdercoated black years ago. I rolled the gold BBS wheel in front of the 17x8 MM11's for a visual on the black SHO... mmmm, tasty goooood. Good thing they're the wrong bolt pattern & offset or I'd really be in trouble.
I have some rare (for my bolt pattern) Mille Miglia MM11's for my Taurus SHO, which I had powdercoated black years ago. I rolled the gold BBS wheel in front of the 17x8 MM11's for a visual on the black SHO... mmmm, tasty goooood. Good thing they're the wrong bolt pattern & offset or I'd really be in trouble.
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(sticks fingers in ears)
la-la-la-la-la-la-I-can't-hear-you-la-la-la-la-la-la
A buddy of mine out here has some... Lindseys I think (the ones before the Rota Fox's & Alton's that were popular). They're very sharp looking wheels to be sure, but he's selling those now that he's got his Alton order in.
As I mentioned Ed, pretty much since buying the 911 5 years ago I've thought about gold BBS wheels on her.
Tell you what Ed, you've got 1st-in-line if I ever sell, ok?![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Other, misc. info:
I didn't know how much Dow/Corning 832 Silicone Rubber Adhesive to order. It's about $10-$11 per 10.x oz tube (caulking gun sized tube) from memory, and I've used less than one tube's worth sealing up all 4 wheels. I bought 4 tubes just in case. Whoops.
Vendor I bought the replacement bolts from:
http://www.titanium-touch.de/ aka Pertsch & Partner
Cost was ~$155 for 140 bolts shipped Deutsche Post (Mail) to the US. Shipping alone was ~$40 so, so about $0.80 / bolt actually isn't bad... there's just a LOT of them.
If re-using the hardware... chase the threads before you start to re-seal the wheels. It takes a lot of time to chase the threads of the oxidation, thread sealant, and a little bit of adhesive if they've been seals up without an original gasket.
2 small tubes of Blue Loctite / Permatex / whatever will be enough. At $7 / tube now, I didn't need the extra 2 tubes I bought.
If the wheels don't need to be re-painted, breaking down, cleaning, and re-assembling won't take that long once you get the hang of things & gain that confidence that your 1st wheel will hold air.
After figuring the process out, it really wasn't bad. 1st one: 90 minutes to reassemble. Last 3: About 30 minutes each (old hardware pre-chased, or all new hardware).
I used about 23 lb-ft for the M7x1.0 bolts.
Coordination: have a plan for bolting up / torquing. You use a star pattern to tighten / torque after applying the adhesive sealant. So have an idea & move right along.
I laid about a 1/8" diameter continuous bead around the outside of the mounting surface (outside of the bolt circle). Most of the sealant squeezed outside, making a bead / fillet in the outside diameter of the assembled wheel (hidden, where the tire is). NO sealant is used closer than that toward the wheel hub side - no need. After assembly & bolting up, I ran extra sealant around that fillet area, used a latex glove & finger & "caulked" around the 2 seams. The center was about 3/4" wide, so by the time I was done I had a black stripe the center section's width around the outside edge. Yes, that's overkill. But I figured better safe than sorry my first time out.
All in all, I'm glad I spent the time to reseal the wheels. It was a great learning experience to be sure.
la-la-la-la-la-la-I-can't-hear-you-la-la-la-la-la-la
A buddy of mine out here has some... Lindseys I think (the ones before the Rota Fox's & Alton's that were popular). They're very sharp looking wheels to be sure, but he's selling those now that he's got his Alton order in.
As I mentioned Ed, pretty much since buying the 911 5 years ago I've thought about gold BBS wheels on her.
Tell you what Ed, you've got 1st-in-line if I ever sell, ok?
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Other, misc. info:
I didn't know how much Dow/Corning 832 Silicone Rubber Adhesive to order. It's about $10-$11 per 10.x oz tube (caulking gun sized tube) from memory, and I've used less than one tube's worth sealing up all 4 wheels. I bought 4 tubes just in case. Whoops.
Vendor I bought the replacement bolts from:
http://www.titanium-touch.de/ aka Pertsch & Partner
Cost was ~$155 for 140 bolts shipped Deutsche Post (Mail) to the US. Shipping alone was ~$40 so, so about $0.80 / bolt actually isn't bad... there's just a LOT of them.
If re-using the hardware... chase the threads before you start to re-seal the wheels. It takes a lot of time to chase the threads of the oxidation, thread sealant, and a little bit of adhesive if they've been seals up without an original gasket.
2 small tubes of Blue Loctite / Permatex / whatever will be enough. At $7 / tube now, I didn't need the extra 2 tubes I bought.
If the wheels don't need to be re-painted, breaking down, cleaning, and re-assembling won't take that long once you get the hang of things & gain that confidence that your 1st wheel will hold air.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I used about 23 lb-ft for the M7x1.0 bolts.
Coordination: have a plan for bolting up / torquing. You use a star pattern to tighten / torque after applying the adhesive sealant. So have an idea & move right along.
I laid about a 1/8" diameter continuous bead around the outside of the mounting surface (outside of the bolt circle). Most of the sealant squeezed outside, making a bead / fillet in the outside diameter of the assembled wheel (hidden, where the tire is). NO sealant is used closer than that toward the wheel hub side - no need. After assembly & bolting up, I ran extra sealant around that fillet area, used a latex glove & finger & "caulked" around the 2 seams. The center was about 3/4" wide, so by the time I was done I had a black stripe the center section's width around the outside edge. Yes, that's overkill. But I figured better safe than sorry my first time out.
All in all, I'm glad I spent the time to reseal the wheels. It was a great learning experience to be sure.