rusnak

Here are the parts that you need to remove, before you install the MDS nylon bearing support:

And second pic shows it installed:

ricster

Only way to go is the sleeve. Did it both ways and stayed with the sleeve.

Radcap

This was my first DIY and was very easy using the above parts, really well made piece,

Cheers,

Rod,

ivangene

thanks rusnak!

so I am good with this fix... I know whe 928 part is not for me, and I see some things that raise questions so I understand the pics you posted.

1.06mm wall thickness... this is the 928 part? (and it leaves too much slop?)
the "good part" is much thicker on the top secion, and has 2 set screws. Is it thicker so that the bearing retainer ring (spider spring clip) is no longer used and the bearing is prevented from moving by taking up the gap between it and the clip on the center splined shaft by adjusting the set screws??

thats interesting.. I plan to make my own part so while I am "engineering it" I wanna know what makes the most sense, looks like he just used black nylon, I will see what I have..and post what I make after its done with a quick sketch of DIM's

ricster

For $29.00 bucks for the bearing sleeve, why try and reinvent the wheel. It's the best and only fix in my mind

ivangene

2 reasons....

cuz I can
cuz I am cheap
cuz I can make one faster than I can get one shipped to me and i have a track day Wednesday

2 - 2 reasons I tell ya

rusnak

yeah, Ivangene is not your typical Porsche owner because he can do a pretty good job on a lathe.

You might try the Edge shaving gel lid simply because it's quick and cheap, you probably already have one in the house, and you can have it fixed in under 10 minutes. If you absolutely have to break out the lathe, I think a tapered cylinder made from a soft metal like aluminum might work well.

ivangene

OK, took out my ghetto plastic strips 8and trust me mine looked bad... but I think they would have worked fine...

here is what I did, wasnt sure on the bearing inner diameter so I guessed and got it right (with a few misses)

the shaft is 22mm so I made the ID of the bushing just about 0.0005 over, the ID of the bearing is 24mm, so I made that about 0.001 smaller.. the collar is 0.5 long with a 1.25 shoulder for about a 1mm (little less)

to install remove the spider ring and cir-clip, slide it on... reverse and go...

now to see how it holds up - BTW I used Delrin because it is what I had, I think nylon would be fine or????

pics -
back to OS - because I can (and I am cheap )

Ed Hughes

Looks good!

rusnak

That looks great. Next time you might cut a few slots in the flange to allow you to remove the bushing.

ivangene

yea, but its not SO tight that I can't just pull it out with a couple little hooks (unless it breaks )

why would I pull it out?

or shouldn't I ask (YET)
Thanks guys, I might make a dozen or so just to have and send out for those in need... we'll see how my work load looks, things like this help me look busy when we are slow

pub911

I know I'm a bit late to the party on this, but I wanted to share my appreciation for all the posts in this thread. Before seeing all this (I just joined Rennlist 2 minutes ago), I went the route of the steel sleeve from P-parts and was unable to install it successfully due to the issues cited above - it didn't seat and appears to have a wall-thickness that's too thick. So I ordered the after-market nylon part and i'm looking forward to attempting a remove & install job when it arrives in 3 days.

After all the comments about the steel repair sleeve being too thick in some cases (like mine) and too thin in others, leaving too much slop, I wondered about the fact that P-parts lists 2 parts for this job. One at around $10 the other around $13. When I asked them about the differences via a customer service web inquiry, I was told "they're both steel." Not much help in answering my nagging question: could they be different in dimensions? one for the 911 and another for the 928 possibly?

HarryD

pub911,

Just a thought. If your car is a 1973 or older, the 928 bushing fix does not fit.

rusnak

I'm trying to remember the 73 part. I think it's a split ring thrust washer. VERY well made imo. One thing we found about the 911 steering shaft Is that it's not perfectly uniform, and maybe not perfectly circular in cross-section. There is a slight bulge in some just below the bearing, which is probably why the factory bearing has a plastic nylon crush sleeve inside the ball bearing. Not the best set up, as we all have found.

pub911

HarryD and rusnak: Thank you for the replies and concern. My car is a 78 911SC (gray market if that matters.)

I really have a problem on my hands now. I can't get the damn split sleeve off the shaft now. The lip of the sleeve is complete worn due to my failed attempts to install and then remove. And I'm worried I may have caused additional damage elsewhere in the assembly.

Here's why: I was able to get the sleeve far enough in place to put the C-clip back on the shaft. So I figured I try putting the wheel back on and see how it felt. At first, with the wheel nut not on too tight, I thought I might be OK on the test ride. But then I put a little more torque on the wheel nut - not crazy tight, but maybe 30lbs, and now the steering is BINDING. I'm worried the pulling action on the steering shaft is compressing something it shouldn't or maybe the bearing's been damaged and can't take the load. Regardless the car's un-drivable and I've got to get that damn sleeve out of there somehow.

Any ideas on how to pull that sleeve off without causing further damage?

Much thanks!