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Ruby has a wee bit of cancer, shouldn't be too bad...

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Old 02-24-2009, 06:18 PM
  #16  
Ed Hughes
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Thanks Pete
Old 02-24-2009, 09:19 PM
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Peter Zimmermann
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FYI: Your patch looks really good!
Old 02-24-2009, 10:00 PM
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Amber Gramps
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Originally Posted by Ed Hughes

After I got the patch in, I knocked the welds down a bit, primered and then sprayed some Wurth undercoating on. Pics of all of the steps below.
Is this the same stuff? I can see some rust one my welds and need to re-seal it all. Where can I get it? I remember that it is flammable....
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Old 02-25-2009, 01:32 AM
  #19  
Ed Hughes
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I bought a big spray can of Wurth "High Build Rubberized Undercoating". I was in Pep Boys the other day, and I see they carry a similar product, it was a name brand. Maybe all the same, maybe not. I like the Wurth products, so I went with that.
Old 02-25-2009, 01:56 PM
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whalebird
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We had a guy come through our shop with a similar problem. We did the same exact repair as you have done. This was a track car and he claimed turn in and braking was a little crisper after restoring the structure. His tracmate recordeed the best times he had ever turned at Roebling Road. Maybe it was psychological, but he was glad when it was done. At any rate, it goes a long way to stay on top of little things like this.
Old 02-25-2009, 06:56 PM
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Ed Hughes
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Hey, I'll take psychological improvements on track times any day!
Old 02-25-2009, 10:04 PM
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As somone mentioned about coating the inside welds to prevent rust, OSPHO is the way to go, to KILL rust.

Once OSPHO is applied and done its work, you simply brush away (it gets flaky and powdery) and primer/paint area. Guarantee no rust again.
Old 02-25-2009, 10:57 PM
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Amber Gramps
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found this while searching for something else:

https://rennlist.com/forums/4187233-post6.html
Old 02-25-2009, 11:07 PM
  #24  
Ed Hughes
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Originally Posted by douglas bray
found this while searching for something else:

https://rennlist.com/forums/4187233-post6.html
Not sure what this relates to? Can't remember the post topic, it looks to be body work. We're talking chassis work here....I'm still scared to death of body work, but that may change.

Also note I suggested using new parts, that's what I'm discussing up above here-so consistent logic is there

Lastly, you're starting to look act like "he who shall not be named" in that you're borderline on stalking. This posting of old posts seems to be a bad habit that you need to break sooner rather than later.
Old 02-25-2009, 11:30 PM
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Amber Gramps
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Ed, go back to the link and click on this line: Thread: Procedure for taking out rusted floorpans on a 911 It looked to be relivant to this thread topic to me.

I was trying to figure out what the OP in that thread is doing with all the cars he is buying and selling. He must enjoy buying then, fixing them up, and starting with another.

I think we have a long way to go before you see me in a tinfoil hat.
Old 02-25-2009, 11:38 PM
  #26  
Ed Hughes
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Ahhh, well that was almost 2 years ago-I'm older and wiser now.
Old 02-26-2009, 09:31 AM
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+1 on the OSPHO. I have used it a bunch of times. It is the best stuff for oxidation hands down.
Years ago there was a recall on certain Mercedes models concerning a treatment inside the frame rails for corrosion. We had to take a parafin wax type of stuff and shoot it into the frame rails through holes in the frame. The Benz factory rep told us to properly do this required a special air gun. "Off the record" he told us to order a JC Whitney rustproofing kit. It worked very well and I think they still sell them. I did a lot of cars with this outfit and really felt good about the result. I could very closely reproduce the cosmoline appearance on newer cars. FWIW.
Old 02-27-2009, 01:29 AM
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HarryD
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Originally Posted by whalebird
+1 on the OSPHO. I have used it a bunch of times. It is the best stuff for oxidation hands down.
Hmmm, it should be. From their web site: "OSPHO is a balanced formula of Phosphoric acid, Sodium Dichromate, Surfactants, and Extenders." You have phosphoric acid to covert rust (iron oxide) to iron phosphate and then have some chrome plate out to provide protection. Nasty but effective.

Years ago there was a recall on certain Mercedes models concerning a treatment inside the frame rails for corrosion. We had to take a parafin wax type of stuff and shoot it into the frame rails through holes in the frame. The Benz factory rep told us to properly do this required a special air gun. "Off the record" he told us to order a JC Whitney rustproofing kit. It worked very well and I think they still sell them. I did a lot of cars with this outfit and really felt good about the result. I could very closely reproduce the cosmoline appearance on newer cars. FWIW.
As a former resident of the rust belt when cars were not galvanized, you are describing a familar product. It was marketed as Zeibart rust treatment (there were others). They took your new car, drilled a bunch of holes in the rockers, door and other obscure areas and sprays this waxy substance intot he holes and put plactic plugs in to hold it in place. Was suppoded to stop rust from forming.



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