Pulling out the motor
04-15-2009, 04:33 PM
#31
Team Owner
if your talking about what to mount them into the case with I think it is a special loctite that requires heat to remove. Pete will know for sure.
04-15-2009, 04:41 PM
#32
I haddah Google dat
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Nikkoa, can you specify if you are trying to fix a leak, and give some additional info? I think this will give Pete or Steve something to respond to.
All I can do is offer to look into the literature, as I have not torn down my engine yet. Maybe Ed can give you some insight? I think the Pelican engine rebuilding forum might also be helpful. chris, the guy in the 911 barn find thread I believe has also done this type of work on his 911.
All I can do is offer to look into the literature, as I have not torn down my engine yet. Maybe Ed can give you some insight? I think the Pelican engine rebuilding forum might also be helpful. chris, the guy in the 911 barn find thread I believe has also done this type of work on his 911.
04-15-2009, 05:02 PM
#33
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I apologize, it's slightly difficult transcending some of my needs seeing how i'm only helping the wrench. I was under the impression a spray adhesive should be applied to the threads of the head studs during installation. I will search around some rebuilding guides to see if i can get to the bottom of this.
04-15-2009, 07:36 PM
#34
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No way you should use silicone ANYWHERE near a 911 engine. The bits and pieces can get into the oil galley's and you end up with potential for serious damage.
I believe Loctite Red or equivalent is what was used to retain the headstuds. They don't need "sealant". I BELIEVE (not sure) that Loctite Blue is used as the Red is overkill. I used Supertec's stud kit which came with a threadlocker that was more in line with the Loctite Blue.
As to your circlips-call or go to the website of one of the suppliers I noted and order circlips for the motor your working on. Go with a Porsche part number, not a generic size.
This is not your father's Oldsmobile.
I believe Loctite Red or equivalent is what was used to retain the headstuds. They don't need "sealant". I BELIEVE (not sure) that Loctite Blue is used as the Red is overkill. I used Supertec's stud kit which came with a threadlocker that was more in line with the Loctite Blue.
As to your circlips-call or go to the website of one of the suppliers I noted and order circlips for the motor your working on. Go with a Porsche part number, not a generic size.
This is not your father's Oldsmobile.
05-09-2009, 07:51 PM
#37
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The dome goes toward the valves.....hahahahaha, couldn't resist!
I believe the large portion of the dome goes toward the LH side as you look at the piston installed on the rod. Please double-check that on the Pelican engine rebuild forum, though.
I believe the large portion of the dome goes toward the LH side as you look at the piston installed on the rod. Please double-check that on the Pelican engine rebuild forum, though.
05-11-2009, 01:57 PM
#38
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07-20-2009, 01:25 PM
#39
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Well, i put the car back together this weekend and took it for its first test drive...
ITS AMAZING. It never handled better! The transmission is tight, engine is responsive, stayed nice and cool. I will admit i wasn't aware of the true nostalgia of this car until i took it to the coast this weekend. I felt as if i was driving a piece of history. It definitely turns some heads, more old guys than women
It was 110 out, stuck in traffic, glued to the leather seats, smiling the entire time. Unfortunately i didn't master the heater controls until the trip back! My favorite part about the car; at low speeds it's the sports car, at high speeds it's the luxury car. Amazing vehicle!
The engine now has 450 miles. Now, my questions to you:
How long before i should get a valve job?
Is there anything in specific i should keep an eye on for the first 1k miles?
Easy HP gains?
Pics will come shortly!!!
ITS AMAZING. It never handled better! The transmission is tight, engine is responsive, stayed nice and cool. I will admit i wasn't aware of the true nostalgia of this car until i took it to the coast this weekend. I felt as if i was driving a piece of history. It definitely turns some heads, more old guys than women
It was 110 out, stuck in traffic, glued to the leather seats, smiling the entire time. Unfortunately i didn't master the heater controls until the trip back! My favorite part about the car; at low speeds it's the sports car, at high speeds it's the luxury car. Amazing vehicle!The engine now has 450 miles. Now, my questions to you:
How long before i should get a valve job?
Is there anything in specific i should keep an eye on for the first 1k miles?
Easy HP gains?
Pics will come shortly!!!
07-20-2009, 03:16 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Congrats. It is a great feeling.
I hope you've changed your oil about 3 times now, or will change it again at 500? It's really critical when breaking in that you keep the oil clean. Lots of metal floating around.
I assume you MEAN valve ADJUST? You should do that at 500 miles on the new engine.
Keep your eyes peeled for leaks. Do a couple of checks that no bolts or nuts are loosening. And keep your eye on the temp. You're probably over the hurdles, but I was pretty diligent for about the first 1500 mile. Paranoid is a better word.
Easy gains? Exhaust.
I hope you've changed your oil about 3 times now, or will change it again at 500? It's really critical when breaking in that you keep the oil clean. Lots of metal floating around.
I assume you MEAN valve ADJUST? You should do that at 500 miles on the new engine.
Keep your eyes peeled for leaks. Do a couple of checks that no bolts or nuts are loosening. And keep your eye on the temp. You're probably over the hurdles, but I was pretty diligent for about the first 1500 mile. Paranoid is a better word.
Easy gains? Exhaust.
07-20-2009, 03:59 PM
#41
I haddah Google dat
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nikkoa, Congratulations!!! I know you were doing some pretty intensive work, and to hear that it is back together and running makes me smile. I can't wait for the pics and follow up summary.
07-20-2009, 04:07 PM
#42
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Great job, congrats. As ED stated above, fuel and oil leaks, temp like a hawk, change the oil. also as he suggested, with the car cold and up, check every nut and bolt at least with your fingers to make nothing is really loose and that they all are in place. ------enjoy
07-23-2009, 05:13 PM
#44
Very cool! Good job! Once you get the hang of it you can get one of those motors out and torn down pretty darn quick. I had it in 6 hours crankshaft in hand. I always dropped with the trans as I was on a lift and it was easier for me.
