backhand

Hey ya'll. Yep, live in the south. And spend way too much time at this site,
but it's too good!

So any-who, 85 Carrera, when I'm looking for TDC for #1, do I use the mark on the generator shroud? It's blocking the crankcase, and the info posted everywhere says line up the pulley mark with the crankcase when the rotor is pointing at the mark on the dizzy. And that's what I got, so Just checking.

Also, i yanked a plug to have a look, it's a W 9 D C Bosch, looks good, I've had the car for about 10K, it has 160, guy I got it from said it had a "hotter chip", he gave me the old one, but he didn't mention the plugs. The book calls for W 7. I'm thinking of putting new plugs because of the age of these, but would love to hear any thoughts on which ones to use.

Let me mention, when she's cold, it starts at the turn of the key, then after say 5 seconds, revs up for about 15 seconds. Once it's warm, though, you gotta crank her a little before she'll fire. Don't know if that adds anything to the mix or not.

Thanks a lot! Cheers!

Vince

old man neri

The Z1 mark, on the bottom pulley, must be lined up. The rotor on the distributor must be pointed at its little mark.

If you pulled a plug you are going to have to button up your engine and take it for a spin. You cannon pull any plug until the valve adjust is complete. Carbon flakes could call on the valve seat and mess up your adjustment.

The 101 projects for your prosche book or the bentley both explain this. They also have nice pictures. If you are going to get into some DIY I would recommend the purchase of these books.

MDL

+1, but I would lean more to the Bentley's. I have both but almost never use the 101

ron mcatee

The two plugs for that 3.2L motor are: NGK BPR6ES & Bosch WR7DC. The
W9DC is not correct. I've used both and NGK provides a little better response and miles per gallon per my experience. Of course, factors vary on every engine. Either of those will work very well for you.

rusnak

All good advice. Notch in alternator shroud lines up w the second of the two notches that are close together. I don't think the 3.2 911s have a Z1 mark, but the notch should have some faint yellow paint. Distributor rotor contact should overlap the pointer in the distributor body.

dshepp806

Better find out what "chip" is in there....

All advice above=dead on.....

I make sure I blow a sheetload of air into the spark plug area BEFORE I take her our...even try to look with a mirror. THE LAST THING I NEED is to have situation that Old Man Neri describes.......big mistake should it happen. Just make sure that you don't have gunk, junk, trash, whatevever,..waiting to fall into the spark plug hole (once the plug's removed.). Clean that area up real nicely before you remove any plugs. SOP, if you ask me.

Start with the basics here,..then we'll head on to the good stuff.

When you say: "Once it's warm, though, you gotta crank her a little before she'll fire",..are you saying she stalls? Requiring a (warm) recrank?

Best,

Doyle

backhand

once i get the # off the chip, then go where?

is there some scenario where an aftermarket chip calls for that plug that's in there, or would y'all go back to the book plug no matter???

she doesn't stall, but it seems i'm holding they key on a lot longer than when it's cold. That might be normal, and i really ain't worried about it.

for now, i want to make sure I adjust the valves in the right order, and if my pulley has z1 on it, like i see in the pics, it's blocked by the a/c pulley.

when the "2nd" or "left" mark is lined up with the mark on the blower shroud, AND the rotor contact is dead on the notch in the distributor, I'm at TDC for #1, right? I mean, the mark on the blower shroud is so obvious.... what else could it be??? And the rocker arm at # 1 has some play. I just want to be sure, because the Pelican page says use the crankcase mark, guess that's engine out, accesories off.

So the plugs should only be changed with the valve covers on is what I'm reading?? ?

Do y'all use neversieze? My plug had it, and this car was serviced at a independent Porsche shop, but I know nothing about them, Doc's Porsche in Columbia SC.

Thanks a ton, I know that's a bunch of questions. Vince

old man neri

The plugs should only be changed after the valve adjust procedure.

rusnak

everyone does things a little differently. I like to change the plugs without the valve covers on because it's easier, and less chance of cross threading. After a valve adjustment is the perfect time imo.

Don't try to change the plugs on a hot engine.