Just wondering aloud for now...
#16
Burning Brakes
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I would imagine there is not much involved if you get the brain and wiring harness along with the engine. I would personally rebuild my own 3.0 liter ( a known quantity ) rather than spend money on a 3.2 I know so little about. i could buy an engine with more ttrouble than my own and be out the dollars to do it.
Everyone keeps saying that. But just as there seems to be alot of people upgrading from a 3.2 to a 3.4/3.6. So why wouldnt there be some "good" 3.2s out there?
Would it be a no brainer if you knew the 3.2 was a good motor, or would you still rather keep the 3.0?
#18
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I would rebuild my own, but that is just me. my car is original and i would keep it that way. why don;t you check around and see what a 3.2 would cost you. i think that would be a starting point. Then consider what you really know about the motor. Besides i don't think there are as many 3.2 swaps as you would imagine. I think people upgrade also becasue when they grenade their motors there are WAY more 3.6s available than 3.2s.
imo of course
imo of course
#19
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Idle discussion or real intent? Several questions have excaped me in attempting to enjoy reading this discussion. If you dont mind a couple of questions, it may help the smart guys here that could help you.
1.are you gonna do the work or buy it.
2. can you drive this car now to the limit without being on a knife edge
3.have you driven the bigger engines
4.why havent you pulled the covers and checked the studs---- you may want to check torque while you have the cover off. You may also want to run a leakdown with the covers off
5.if you want a modified go fast, I have found that it is best to buy what has already has been done.
this is for bikes and cars both. Usually you will save 30 to 40%, this does not include time
6.If you do a build or swap, you may wnat to consider keeping the runner in it while you get the other engine ready--either rebuild or all the parts for the swap. keep your old engine. if you can buy and engine/tranny paackage even better. If you can buy a whole car and part it out and keep spares, even better.
Parts for the SC and CArrera will go up in price and become harder to find. Money I invested in Porsche and aircraft engine parts has produced a nice return for me in todays economy. If you have spare cash and can invest wisely, this is better than Wall street or the bank.
1.are you gonna do the work or buy it.
2. can you drive this car now to the limit without being on a knife edge
3.have you driven the bigger engines
4.why havent you pulled the covers and checked the studs---- you may want to check torque while you have the cover off. You may also want to run a leakdown with the covers off
5.if you want a modified go fast, I have found that it is best to buy what has already has been done.
this is for bikes and cars both. Usually you will save 30 to 40%, this does not include time
6.If you do a build or swap, you may wnat to consider keeping the runner in it while you get the other engine ready--either rebuild or all the parts for the swap. keep your old engine. if you can buy and engine/tranny paackage even better. If you can buy a whole car and part it out and keep spares, even better.
Parts for the SC and CArrera will go up in price and become harder to find. Money I invested in Porsche and aircraft engine parts has produced a nice return for me in todays economy. If you have spare cash and can invest wisely, this is better than Wall street or the bank.
#20
I haddah Google dat
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It may be just me, and I don't mean to sound rude, but most people don't assume a broken head stud from a click click sound.
What I was trying to suggest in my post is that if you have a compression leak at high rpm due to a broken head stud it would be a very loud blapblapblap and you'd be damaging your cylinder and head both.
I think you would do well to have a leakdown test performed for you.
What I was trying to suggest in my post is that if you have a compression leak at high rpm due to a broken head stud it would be a very loud blapblapblap and you'd be damaging your cylinder and head both.
I think you would do well to have a leakdown test performed for you.
#21
Burning Brakes
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Idle discussion or real intent? Several questions have excaped me in attempting to enjoy reading this discussion. If you dont mind a couple of questions, it may help the smart guys here that could help you.
1.are you gonna do the work or buy it.
deppends on the work to be done.
2. can you drive this car now to the limit without being on a knife edge
no
3.have you driven the bigger engines
yes
4.why havent you pulled the covers and checked the studs---- you may want to check torque while you have the cover off. You may also want to run a leakdown with the covers off
The car had a valve adjustment 10,000 miles ago. It is due for a look now. I have just been scared of looking.
5.if you want a modified go fast, I have found that it is best to buy what has already has been done.
I agree.
this is for bikes and cars both. Usually you will save 30 to 40%, this does not include time
6.If you do a build or swap, you may wnat to consider keeping the runner in it while you get the other engine ready--either rebuild or all the parts for the swap. keep your old engine. if you can buy and engine/tranny paackage even better. If you can buy a whole car and part it out and keep spares, even better.
This seems the smart thing to do, if your budget allows it.
Parts for the SC and CArrera will go up in price and become harder to find. Money I invested in Porsche and aircraft engine parts has produced a nice return for me in todays economy. If you have spare cash and can invest wisely, this is better than Wall street or the bank.
1.are you gonna do the work or buy it.
deppends on the work to be done.
2. can you drive this car now to the limit without being on a knife edge
no
3.have you driven the bigger engines
yes
4.why havent you pulled the covers and checked the studs---- you may want to check torque while you have the cover off. You may also want to run a leakdown with the covers off
The car had a valve adjustment 10,000 miles ago. It is due for a look now. I have just been scared of looking.
5.if you want a modified go fast, I have found that it is best to buy what has already has been done.
I agree.
this is for bikes and cars both. Usually you will save 30 to 40%, this does not include time
6.If you do a build or swap, you may wnat to consider keeping the runner in it while you get the other engine ready--either rebuild or all the parts for the swap. keep your old engine. if you can buy and engine/tranny paackage even better. If you can buy a whole car and part it out and keep spares, even better.
This seems the smart thing to do, if your budget allows it.
Parts for the SC and CArrera will go up in price and become harder to find. Money I invested in Porsche and aircraft engine parts has produced a nice return for me in todays economy. If you have spare cash and can invest wisely, this is better than Wall street or the bank.
#22
Drifting
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Have you sen this 3.2 & tranny posted on Pelican for $7,500 plus shipping?
45k miles on engine
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=452690
Located in Iowa
Then you could sell your 2.7 to recoup almost half of your costs or more.
John
45k miles on engine
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=452690
Located in Iowa
Then you could sell your 2.7 to recoup almost half of your costs or more.
John
#23
Burning Brakes
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Have you sen this 3.2 & tranny posted on Pelican for $7,500 plus shipping?
45k miles on engine
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=452690
Located in Iowa
Then you could sell your 2.7 to recoup almost half of your costs or more.
John
45k miles on engine
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?t=452690
Located in Iowa
Then you could sell your 2.7 to recoup almost half of your costs or more.
John
I have decided to go with a recomendation from a person I highly respect and stick with my 3.0 . It has warmed up nice here today so I will be jumping back on my exhaust in a few mins. After that I will take a peek under the valve covers.
#24
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if I heard a phut phut type sound on a 2.7 i would think possibly a pulled stud or two as exhast gasses leak out between the cylinder and head. If I heard a light lick click I owuld suspect a valve adjustemnt. If I heard a heavy click click sound at idle i might think of a dropped valve or some type of valve train issue. If I heard a lot of tinny noise I would suspect a failing tensioner as the chain rattles off the chain box . But in all cases the fist thing I would do is take off the alternator and AC belt and run it first to see itf it goes away
#25
Burning Brakes
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How did we get on the 2.7 subject?
On the subject of the sound I am hearing on my 3.0...I did not start hearing the sound until I put my muffler back on with the new gasket. It is a loud tick sound under heavy throttle only, no noise at idle.
It went away the other day when I used the high heat copper gasket stuff but I did not let it cure before I ran the car. So the noise came back. This is why I beleive that the sound I am hearing is coming from that point.
If the sound goes away after I re-aply the copper gasket and it stays gone after it cures...then problem solved, and I will just start working on other things. If the noise does not go away I will immediately check the head studs. The only thing that makes me feel that it is not the studs is because they were not broken 10,000 miles ago at the the last valve adjustment.
On the subject of the sound I am hearing on my 3.0...I did not start hearing the sound until I put my muffler back on with the new gasket. It is a loud tick sound under heavy throttle only, no noise at idle.
It went away the other day when I used the high heat copper gasket stuff but I did not let it cure before I ran the car. So the noise came back. This is why I beleive that the sound I am hearing is coming from that point.
If the sound goes away after I re-aply the copper gasket and it stays gone after it cures...then problem solved, and I will just start working on other things. If the noise does not go away I will immediately check the head studs. The only thing that makes me feel that it is not the studs is because they were not broken 10,000 miles ago at the the last valve adjustment.
#29
Burning Brakes
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#30
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Just back from my short test drive. The "ticking" sound is not as loud as before, but is definitely still there. I drove easy enough until the car was up to proper temp before pushing it. I did not hear the noise until I gave hard throttle. This scares the crap out of me, so I came straight home and pulled her in the garage, and put the car cover and three layers of blankets back on (I have cats that like to lay on it).
I have other things I need to attend to on this Sunday, so I will have to wait for another day till i can continue.
I guess the first thing I will do at that time will be remove the valve covers to see if the head studs are the culprit. I was also thinking about taking her down to Vortex Motorsports and letting a competent wrench do a once over. Basically have a post purchase inspection done. That way I can have a list of things that need to be addressed. Then I can decide if those things can be performed by myself or a mechanic. What do yall think?
I have other things I need to attend to on this Sunday, so I will have to wait for another day till i can continue.
I guess the first thing I will do at that time will be remove the valve covers to see if the head studs are the culprit. I was also thinking about taking her down to Vortex Motorsports and letting a competent wrench do a once over. Basically have a post purchase inspection done. That way I can have a list of things that need to be addressed. Then I can decide if those things can be performed by myself or a mechanic. What do yall think?