STALLING OUT
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
STALLING OUT
A while back I had posted that my SC had died it ended up being the CD Unit I had it rebuilt, it seemd fine for a while now I have had to exchange it 3 times it keeps going bad I do have a good back up one out of my buddies SC that i can plug in right away and the car starts up and runs with no problem. My question is there something that my car could be caousing the other Cd boxes to go bad or just not a good rebuilt.
Thank you
Ernie
Thank you
Ernie
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I will check it tonight and post it for you, but I have being running my friends box in the car for the last 2 weeks, even autocrossed the hell out of the car past 2 weeknds and I dont have a problem with his box so I dont beleive it could be a charging system issue
Ernie
Ernie
#5
Drifting
There are often two indications if your alternator is overcharging the battery.
Three, if you count the "out-gassing" odor.
1) The brake failure indicator will sometimes illuminate and you must disconnect the battery to reset it.
2) The RPM limiter will sometimes detect a (non-existent) engine overspeed condition, picking up the fuel pump shutdown relay. Due to the battery over voltage the limiter latches up, requiring the ignition be entirely switched off .
The engine restarts each time but will soon shut down again with the detection of tehe next non-existent overspeed. Also, the engine cannot be "bump", pushed started, until the ignition has been switched off to remove the rev limiter latch condition.
Since it is the CD ignition that is generating "false", TO FAST, plug firings, again due to the over voltage condition, many technicians will replace the CD ignition thinking that to be the problem.
Oh, due to the wiring distance from the alternator to/from the battery, even a slight additional resistance, loose engine/chasis connection, corroded battery terminals, the resulting alternator over-voltage "spikes" can case the CD ignition to generate TOO many firings, and then....
Three, if you count the "out-gassing" odor.
1) The brake failure indicator will sometimes illuminate and you must disconnect the battery to reset it.
2) The RPM limiter will sometimes detect a (non-existent) engine overspeed condition, picking up the fuel pump shutdown relay. Due to the battery over voltage the limiter latches up, requiring the ignition be entirely switched off .
The engine restarts each time but will soon shut down again with the detection of tehe next non-existent overspeed. Also, the engine cannot be "bump", pushed started, until the ignition has been switched off to remove the rev limiter latch condition.
Since it is the CD ignition that is generating "false", TO FAST, plug firings, again due to the over voltage condition, many technicians will replace the CD ignition thinking that to be the problem.
Oh, due to the wiring distance from the alternator to/from the battery, even a slight additional resistance, loose engine/chasis connection, corroded battery terminals, the resulting alternator over-voltage "spikes" can case the CD ignition to generate TOO many firings, and then....
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
UPDATE, turns out that it was a defective component in the rebuilt unit, claims he had a bad batch of them,
but as posted earlier a have a good used unit that I use while the rebuilt is down and that unit doeasnt have any issues so, By the way the vehicle chargin system is good no overcharging or anything like that. Iceman: as far as a MSD I have thought about it for a while but I want to keep it all stock if I can, but believe me if I keep having problem swith the unit I will go MSD.
but as posted earlier a have a good used unit that I use while the rebuilt is down and that unit doeasnt have any issues so, By the way the vehicle chargin system is good no overcharging or anything like that. Iceman: as far as a MSD I have thought about it for a while but I want to keep it all stock if I can, but believe me if I keep having problem swith the unit I will go MSD.