dbryant61

Bought a 930 tea tray tail which I am going to install on a stock 911SC engine lid. Is there a source for a template for the bolt holes locations? This is an OE tail.

Also, selling the aftermarket "whale tail" that is on the car right now. The fiberglass is in good condition and has both grills, but the rubber has seen better days. It is solidly attached, but cracking near the attachment points, and if you peel it back, you can see that the metal plate to which the studs are attached is rusted. This is the style of tail that was on the 3.0 Carrera, 75-77 Turbo Carrera, and 1980 Weissach 911SC.

Peter Zimmermann

Don: When I did mine I set up all of the brackets, installed the tail on the lid, then reached inside the tail with a short pencil to draw the marks for the holes needed. When it's done that way you can't miss, just be sure that the tail's in the correct position! Be aware that at first glance the two outboard brackets look the same, but they're not - they mirror image each other. If I remember right, you will also have to drill bolt holes (in your stock lid) for those two brackets.

genripper

Hey, that looks familiar!!!

theiceman

how about leave the tea tray off and trade it for a Carrera tail..

rusnak

If you are drilling your old engine lid, don't forget to drill some drain holes. I'll try to post some old pics that might shed some light.

The lower holes attach the wing and the reinforcement rib. The holes just above the lower row of holes are the drains in the corners.

Sorry, I don't have a template. Maybe use a dab of grease or a felt pen?

f4 plt

I have a small whale tail which is one piece with the decklid, all fiberglass, That I would like to find a new home for. I took it off my SC and replaced it with a duck tail

nikkoa

f4 do you have pics?

Also where did you find your duck tail. I too have an SC and am looking for a tail.

Peter Zimmermann

I'm curious, where are those drain holes pictured in factory literature. Nothing in my manual (repair or parts) show those holes - was that from a factory supplement/service bulletin?

rusnak

Hi Peter,

No this is a factory tail/decklid that I bought from IanC, Pelican member in San Rafael (nice guy btw). Here are more pics of the before/after re-paint and install on my car:

Peter Zimmermann

How big are they, 10mm? Can you see evidence of them being drilled after-the-fact? This is really an eye-opener, I've never seen those holes in a tail/lid before. Hopefully someone reading this can offer info that might help nail this down to a production year, etc...

I think that I'll wash my car this weekend and see if any water is trapped in that area!

rusnak

Hi Dr. Z:

I never really paid much attention to them either, and now I'm wondering.

They are 12mm diameter, and appear to have been punched with a dye, probably by the factory.

I know that my spoiler traps water. I have to open the engine lid and let the water drain out after a wash, before starting the drying process.

ok...here's another tip. Don't forget to install aluminum pop-rivets in the base gasket. If you don't it will move on you, and your gasket will not seal against the base of the tail (ignore the red and blue circles, this pic was edited to help a Pelican member). The rivets are the 4 that you see, 2 on each side.

dbryant61

Pete and Rusnak,

Thanks for all your help. Please make sure I am understanding correctly. It appears that the top studs go through the standard holes already there for the stock grill in the engine decklid. So I should (gently) place the tail on the lid with the studs through the top holes and mark the locations of the bottom holes based on the studs?

Sounds a little imprecise, but I'll try.

rusnak

I'd remove the bottom studs first b/c the geometry of trying to use the stud as a marker will make the holes line up too low if you do that.

Peter Zimmermann

My picture #2. With the five brackets in place and tight (you will probably have to drill the holes for the outboard bracket bolts), lower the lid into position and install/snug the five bolts through the lid into the brackets. With the tail in place on the lid (the five bolts will hold it and you don't need the gasket) you can reach inside the tail, use the lower holes as your guide, and draw a circle for each new bolt hole. I also used a stock SC lid, and after this was done, and the holes were drilled, I took the assembly back apart and had the "SC" emblem holes filled and the lid painted. I'm not sure which studs that you're talking about, the tail and lid sections are held together with bolts. You must remove the SC lid grille before starting the project, and none of that part/hardware is used. For simplicity, as you can see, I did my entire project on the bench. You can also do the setup without the rubber on the tail - much lighter and easier to work with!

f4 plt

I need to take some pictures. I got the ducktail from MA Shaw (same as the Getty unit) excellent quality. It took me less than an hour to dismount the whaletail and instal the duck tail. A little shimming and it fit great no grinding of fiberglass. He sell a quality product at a fair price. I will try and get some pictures this weekend.