Headlights
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Headlights
Check out the headlights on my '79 911sc. Notice that they don't sit flush with the ring. I want to change this, but am not sure as to what change i'm looking for?
2. As they are now, was this original??
Thanks,
rosco28
2. As they are now, was this original??
Thanks,
rosco28
#2
Rennlist Member
the headlights on your car are the stock headlights....
you want to purchase the H4 european style headlights...they are much better looking and also better light source....they come with either chrome OR primered trim rings that are ready for paint...the trim rings should match the color of the car so buy the primered rings and have a good painter spray them...
i bought a set a few years ago and they were about $200 each or $400 for the pair...check ebay for a deal
you want to purchase the H4 european style headlights...they are much better looking and also better light source....they come with either chrome OR primered trim rings that are ready for paint...the trim rings should match the color of the car so buy the primered rings and have a good painter spray them...
i bought a set a few years ago and they were about $200 each or $400 for the pair...check ebay for a deal
#4
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FWIW, here's my Metallic Moss Green '84 after the switch to Euro H-4s.
I bought them black paintable rather than chrome, and with all the black trim, they didn't look too bad as they were (not sure what your green is, the the MMG on the '84 looks almost black under some lighting). I found a set of trim rings that cover up the adjustment screws--also black--and that's the way it is for now.
I'll probably have them painted though, this spring. I'm looking at doing the front bumper and mirror backs to get rid of some pretty back stone chipping and will do the rings at the same time.
I bought them black paintable rather than chrome, and with all the black trim, they didn't look too bad as they were (not sure what your green is, the the MMG on the '84 looks almost black under some lighting). I found a set of trim rings that cover up the adjustment screws--also black--and that's the way it is for now.
I'll probably have them painted though, this spring. I'm looking at doing the front bumper and mirror backs to get rid of some pretty back stone chipping and will do the rings at the same time.
#5
Racer
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I actually prefer the stock headlights because the H4's stick out quite far at the top and I find this unappealing.
How much of a lighting difference do they actually make? Can anyone hear compare properly aimed headlights before and after?
How much of a lighting difference do they actually make? Can anyone hear compare properly aimed headlights before and after?
#6
Burning Brakes
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Yes the H4's are a better light scource, but as far as looking better than the stock "Sugar Scoops", thats a matter of opinion.
#7
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H-4 is used around the boards to denote the Bosch H-4
I use Cibie H-4 which a flat faced.
get non DOT, aka E-code, H-4
install E-code lens, high watt bulbs, a high heat bulb socket, and headlight relays to light up the night.
I use Cibie H-4 which a flat faced.
get non DOT, aka E-code, H-4
install E-code lens, high watt bulbs, a high heat bulb socket, and headlight relays to light up the night.
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#8
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Keep in mind you can get 7" round H-4s for use with the sugar scoops. I have a set in my '68 and while perhaps not quite as good as the Euro H-4s in the '84, they too make a world of difference...
#9
Drifting
My '78 Targa was upgraded to H4 some years ago and I just completed another upgrade to bi-xenon HID bulbs. You can now buy HID bulbs on the aftermarket that use a solenoid to move the HID arc centerpoint from/to the H4 halogen bulb's two filament positions.
About to do the same HID mod to our '88 Special Edition.
About to do the same HID mod to our '88 Special Edition.
#10
I haddah Google dat
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roscoe 28, look carefully at the lens of your current headlights. I think you already have H4s (the "motorcycle" headlight) in your stock trim rings. If you have any doubt, take the trim ring off. If the bulb comes out the back, then you have H4s.
The Euro H4s will offer very little benefit in terms of increased light output.
If you do decide to install Euro H4s, buy not only the headlamps, but there is a trim ring that goes OVER the primered trim ring. In other words, you screw the headlight to the body, then a painted ring over that. The painted ring should match your body cover. Also, a good idea to buy some protective film headlight shields to protect those expensive lenses.
The Euro H4s will offer very little benefit in terms of increased light output.
If you do decide to install Euro H4s, buy not only the headlamps, but there is a trim ring that goes OVER the primered trim ring. In other words, you screw the headlight to the body, then a painted ring over that. The painted ring should match your body cover. Also, a good idea to buy some protective film headlight shields to protect those expensive lenses.
#11
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light output is tied to watt power and bulb filiment windings. Another issue is measuring light output is flawed. Most light bulb sellers outsource to cheapest supplier overseas. Narva and Osram are good bulbs. PIAA sucks.
E-code vs DOT is related to optics. If your lens has glass **** sticking out they are DOT
E-code Cibie lens optics is better than Hella.
E-code Cibie H-4 and Bosch H-4 are about equal in optics.
all above only how I see it.
#13
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I bought the ones pelican sells. They are pretty thick. They do work great against big stones thrown off from big rig trick tires though. These look thinner?
the ones I have decrease light output about 10%.
Light output is not a problem for me but retaining new lens optics is.
thx for the info
the ones I have decrease light output about 10%.
Light output is not a problem for me but retaining new lens optics is.
thx for the info
#14
I haddah Google dat
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I bought the protective film for headlight protection from Griot's Garage. It is very well made and absolutely clear. You can't even tell it's on there. It has protected my Euro H4s for about 7 years and still hasn't turned yellow. Highly recommend.
My friend who designs lighting has a light meter that measures in candle power. I think it would be interesting to compare the sugar scoops with H4s to Euro H4s, but from a purely subjective standpoint, I did not notice any difference in brightness and distance when I went "Euro". It was only a cosmetic upgrade. I liked the way the headlight washers didn't catch the trim ring with spray too.
Look again at Roscoe's headlight lenses. If they were the original sealed beam units, they'd be rounded. They're flat, which tells me they are H4s. He can upgrade the lights by simply using 55/100 watt halogen bulbs.
My friend who designs lighting has a light meter that measures in candle power. I think it would be interesting to compare the sugar scoops with H4s to Euro H4s, but from a purely subjective standpoint, I did not notice any difference in brightness and distance when I went "Euro". It was only a cosmetic upgrade. I liked the way the headlight washers didn't catch the trim ring with spray too.
Look again at Roscoe's headlight lenses. If they were the original sealed beam units, they'd be rounded. They're flat, which tells me they are H4s. He can upgrade the lights by simply using 55/100 watt halogen bulbs.
#15
Rennlist Member
I bought the ones pelican sells. They are pretty thick. They do work great against big stones thrown off from big rig trick tires though. These look thinner?
the ones I have decrease light output about 10%.
Light output is not a problem for me but retaining new lens optics is.
thx for the info
the ones I have decrease light output about 10%.
Light output is not a problem for me but retaining new lens optics is.
thx for the info