I want to replace my fuel filter and was wondering how much fuel will I lose when I disconnect the fuel filter? Any precautions or tips on doing the job? TIA Andrew

 

I would have some rags handy. It won't be too much. Disconnect the top first that way as soon as the bottom one is off you can just pull it out.

Other than that it should be fairly straight forward, it was for me!

-matt

 

I had the same experience as Matt. Do it with the engine cold & have some rags positioned underneath the filter. Have 2 wrenches (one to hold, one to turn). Truly a 15 minute job.

Ian

 

Just don't be smoking when doing the job.
abe

 

Highly suggest you use line wrenches for the job.

 

I used a Campbell soup can to drain the line once it was disconnected. Just disconnect the line and move it over to the can. Use the rags to catch any drips.

 

Thanks guys. It is my weekend "project". I did go and pick up a set of line wrenches just to facilitate the process.

 

Job done. For anyone else looking to do this project for the first time - the top fitting is 19 mm and lower was 17mm and largest line wrench I had was 17mm but it all worked out. I noticed that the bottom fitting had a dab of red paint indicating lock tight red and I used the same. Job was not hard at all but it took some torque to loosen up the nuts - my 911 had what looked like the original filter from 1989. The inner nipple on top had a little corrosion but I left it alone. Definitely helps to loosen the top first and then get situated for the bottom where there is less clearance. I recommend stubbie wrenches. I used an empty Coke can to catch the gas coming from the bottom when I removed it. Car started up with no apparent leaks as I checked afterwards. Slightly off subject but I changed the idle control valve as well and re-adjusted the idle. Car is running quite strong. Last project is the throttle switch but I can't figure out how to get to the bracket screws otherwise that should be an easy project. My impression is that changing out these parts on a 20 year old 911 really helps improve engine performance and compliments my Steve Wong chip.

 

I think if you counter the line nuts with a wrench on the filter housing it helps. I think it is a 22mm. should be real easy.
I suggest all porsche owner get involved with their cars like this. I strongly reccomended it to my customer in my shop. It helped clarify the process when they brought the cars in for larger jobs like valve adjusts, cluthes, etc.
these cars beg for participation from their owners.

 

That's true. I used a small crescent wrench to hold the filter housing while I used the wrench on the line nut. I can't imagine doing it any other way - otherwise I suspect you will shear something off. I wish my local shop was so inviting - they usually want me out of the shop. But I watch and talk to the mechanic whenever possible. That's how I learn a lot of things - like taking my door apart and working on the window mechanism. I also took Bruce Anderson's mechanic workshop to get a better grip on things. That was great as we got hands on experience with a engine mounted on a stand. I got to look at intake / exhaust side valves and try to adjust them, the timing belt, etc. Only problem is that you have no such clearance in the real world! But it definitely gave me confidence that I can do mechanical things on my own. Interior / dash board items have never been a problem. Next task - an oil change!

 

I'm glad to here you took Bruces course. The Porsche community is a small one and someone who gets one of these cars without any idea of what it takes to work on them can have an affect on the industry at large. I know guys who have bought a Pcar on ebay and when you tell them it needs valve guides they just get pissed and its always the techs fault. That guy sells the car then tells everyone what a POS porsche cars are. That hurts our community. It is the job of a shop to educate it's customers. It makes better customers and they will TRUST their tech. This is very important in ownership of these cars.
If i floored a customer with a quote/diagnosis I would strongly suggest they get a second opinion-or more. More often then not they would come back. Developing a relationship with a tech is integral in the laymans ownership of sports cars.
I have gotten more than one invitation to customers weddings,parties,etc. You may want to explore other shops in your area if you don't get a good feel from your shop.
However, I would suggest you stick with a shop if you trust them. Its real important you communicate with them. Your training should help you understand the car and also the techs job.
ASK A LOT OF QUESTIONS!

 

Congrats! Now go have a beer.

What do you mean by 're-adjusted the idle'? I though the DME controlled the idle speed.

 

Thanks Whalebird. I do go to a different shop now and they let me watch. I even do some of the labor before I get there if I feel that there is too much to risk by going any further (ie. door window motor - I just couldn't figure out how to unbolt it so took it to the shop with door disassembled and I put the door back together. Labor for the just the installation of the motor was under $100.

As for the idle - (and I am truly a newbie so do your own checking) there is a hex screw (on my 89) above the idle control valve (930-606-161-00-M14) that you can turn to increase / decrease the standing idle. I had to adjust the idle up once the ICV went in - probably because the specs on the old one shifted over time. Not a big deal - it dropped to 800 and I increased it to 880.

 

I like the idle around 900-950 on these cars. You should be fine.

 

Another question - I reset the idle while bridging B and C in the test socket to approximately 900. Engine temp was normal. But the idle was too low when I removed the bridge - around 800. So I then set the idle to around 900 - 950 w/o the bridge. When I bridged B & C - it went up to around 1000. Everything seems fine as it goes down to around 950 without the bridge so I left it alone. Any thoughts? Andrew