robrichtx

Hi Folks - long time no post. I've had my 911 for about 7 years now and she goes through periods of use and rest.

I just pulled her down off the blocks and replaced her fuel pump and fuel filter. She's running like a champ with one exception - starting.

More often than not, when I turn the key to start, nothing happens. No sounds, no spin - zero. It's interesting to note that when I turn the key in a no start condition, I don't get that last, springy resistance - the resitance that kicks the key back to its Run position when you're done cranking the starter.

If I turn the key back and forth multiple times, eventually I will get it to the point that I feel the spring/resistance and I can start the engine.

I'm thinking that this is a problem with the ignition switch, as opposed to the starter, as every time I turn past the Run position to the Start position and I feel the spring resistance, the stater responds normally.

Anyone ever experienced this before? If so - any idea if an ignition switch can be keyed to match the door locks, etc? Any other suggestions?

Thanks guys - I'm all ears!

robrichtx

Ah - sorry, looks like I don't have a signature. I have a 1977 Euro Carrera with a 3.0 litre motor. It's pretty close to a '78 SC, but with 10 extra horse, and the dash is all in German.

MUSSBERGER

The electrical part of the switch in back of the mechanical key portion may be loose or going bad.
That happened to me at Summit Point last year. I came off the track and everything was dead except the motor was still running. I turned the motor off with the emergency switch. Mine was just loose. PIA to get the little screws back in.

84_Carrera

Had the same thing, replaced the elctrical part (because it was cheaper & easier), but it ended up being the mechanical part of the switch on mine.

Same thing... started getting worse & worse as time went on (1 out of 2 attempts, 1 out of 3-4, 1 out of 10, 1 out of 25, then nada).

robrichtx

Little more info here - when the car won't start, it's because the key won't turn past the Run position. When I am able to start it, the key turns all the way to the Start position.

Looks like it's getting stuck at Run. Is that the electrical part of the switch locking up, or is the mechanical part? I've tried two different keys - each does the same thing.

PITA!

Rob

84_Carrera

Do this.

Remove the 2 screws for the electrical part of the switch, let it hang down under the dash & use a phillips screwdriver to turn the car over. If it consistently starts, it could be the mechanical part, like mine was. I found that the car would start with the switch accessible, but not when reattached, like the switch wasn't QUITE getting over far enough via the key.

I removed the front seat, put a piece of plywood down w/ four drywall screws to lock it into place in the holes on the seat mounts, then went nuts trying to get the screws out. bottom, no problem, top, total SOB. I used a 1/4" drive socket set w/ a stubby phillips bit most successfully, but had a ratcheting little 90 degree screwdriver too. Not any room between the top of the screw head & the firewall, essentially.

I drove around for a few weeks with the switch hanging under the dash, tucked it up out of sight when parked out & about & a stubby phillips in the catch area.

Good luck!

rusnak

Lots of good advice and tips already.

If the electrical portion is going bad, other stuff goes haywire too, like the car won't turn off, the windows go crazy, etc.

If you have to replace the electrical portion of the switch, order two shear off bolts. I used a little stubby allen key that comes with cheap furniture to remove the bolt on the mechanical switch that locks the steering column.

It's a pain in the butt. You need to remove the driver's seat and use a strong light. You must replace all of the bolts and nuts, screws, etc. Each one serves a purpose.

madmmac

Squirt some brake cleaner right into the key slot. Use a magnetic jewelers flat screw driver and work the tumblers from the top to the bottom so you can feel them slide in and out...Repeat the whole process. Then use WD40 and do the same thing.....Now slide your key in and out a bunch of times...and finally try starting it. Do this a few times also.

robrichtx

Great feeback guys - I really appreciate it! I think I'm going to start with Mac's approach to see if I can finesse it. I'm thinking I'm going to start with some Kroil - t cleans, lubes, and unsticks like nothing I've ever seen. If that doesn't work, I might try the brake cleaner - however, any chance that it would adversely affect any plastic? It looks like there is some plastic on the housing.

If that does not solve it, then I'm down to dissassembling it and troubleshooting the two parts. I have no problem dropping 600 bucks on something that improves the looks or the performance, but that kind of money on an ignition switch is just plain unsexy. I hope that's not the solution - I'd rather get her a new set of shoes, or some shocks or something. Not to mention, I really don't want two separate keys for the car.

Thanks again for the input guys - and I welcome any additional ideas. I'll be sure to post any/all results.

BTW - took the car to the inspection joint tonight. She started first time on all three attempts by the inspector. Now, when I got behind the wheel to drive away, guess what happened?

At least she has a sense of humor.

84_Carrera

I did Berryman's B12 Chemtool in my ignition.

Have lots of nice absorbant cloths ready, as what you squirt in WILL come out under / on the lower dash / rugs...

rusnak

if it's the electrical portion of the switch that's gone bad, no amount of kroil in the mechanical half will help.

And, if you change out the electrical portion, you'll prevent the car from having strange problems, even shutting itself off. Also, you only have to change the key if you change the mechanical portion.

robrichtx

Here's the update - I hope it stays this way, but I'm not holding my breath yet. I gave it a gentle shot of Aerokroil this afternoon and it has not acted up since I left the house. I worked the tumblers with the key (did not get into it with my precision flatheads) and it seemed to get measurably smoother quickly. It misbehaved for the first two start attempts, but once I got to the start position and worked it over two or three times, it came right back to normal function. I drove her around to lunch and ran a few errands - no problems so far.

Hopefully that's it. I have no other odd electrical problems at this point, so I'm hoping it is merely a problem with a poorly lubricated tumbler in the lock section. That would explain why it would not turn past RUN.

Thanks again for your input guys - this site is a treasure trove of information and assistance!

Rob