The new 36-Degree Valve Adjusting Tool
05-08-2010, 09:34 PM
#61
I *think* I understand how this works. Is it supposed to replace the feeler gauge?
I think so as 0.004" is 0.1016mm
It seems pretty simple to use but I would like to validate that I'm reading this correctly.
I think so as 0.004" is 0.1016mm
It seems pretty simple to use but I would like to validate that I'm reading this correctly.
05-09-2010, 03:18 PM
#63
Burning Brakes
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So as a result of me not understanding when to stop tightening the adjustment screw, I royally F'd up my valve adjustment yesterday. I had to redo it today. But this time I used the tool correctly and I must say that it was so much easier than the feeler gauge. And quick too. I did the whole job in about 2 1/2 hours. I'd say the voodoo of valve adjustments is gone.
05-09-2010, 03:29 PM
#64
I haddah Google dat
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Some people will still prefer the old fashioned way. Others like the backside method, which I dont. To each his own but I like the tool so much I bought a second one.
12-12-2010, 01:53 PM
#66
Parts Specialist
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Actually, I find this tool less than accurate. Due to the fact that one lines up a point of some kind, them swings the tool through its arc to another arbitrary point, maybe less desireable than the first, there is a fair amount of subjectivity with this. If one has trouble with a feeler gauge, then I suppose it would be an improvement. But, if you have the right feel with the .004" shim, there is no substitute for its accuracy. Having said that, some feeler gauges are better than others. I was fortunate enough to get one of island911's special tools when he offered them for sale on Pelican a few years back, so I'm somewhat spoiled on that.
I guess one can't have too many tools, so this piece looks good in the drawer.
I guess one can't have too many tools, so this piece looks good in the drawer.
I found this to be about right too...the tool is surely a good idea and gets you close, but you can see in every video there is a recheck to the feeler gage...and the gap can change ever so slightly when to tighten the jam nut.... so why not just use the feeler gage and skip the tool...
again, cool idea and gets you close. I was at the shop and while they were building a new motor the tech let me adjust a couple valves on the stand to get me in touch with the process... I will use feeler gages - seems to be the quickest and most acurate - not to say the tool isnt a good idea
12-16-2010, 11:38 AM
#68
Burning Brakes
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Just found this thread, wish I had looked it over before I did my valve adjust a month ago.
Funny thing is that I came to similar conclusion / result for speeding up my adjustments.
I went about adjusting the valves on my '80sc via the "backside" method as described on pellican. Per that method, I had a "go" and a "no go" feeler gauge. What I found was if I stuck the "no go"(aka, thicker feeler) in the backside between the cam and rocker face, and then snugged down the adjustment screw; I could then tighten the lock nut about 30-45 ish degrees and it would give me a feel that was just right for the "go" gauge because it would also turn the adjustment screw slightly when the lock nut was snugged down. Maybe this was a half *** way to do it, but i whizzed thru all the cylinders and turned the motor over by hand and then rechecked a second time and they were all spot on.
After reading this thread, I like the idea of the reference pins on the screwdriver because it gives you essentialy the same result as I came with, only easier due to the reference points being on the screwdriver, where as I was relying on the wrench on the nut as a reference.
Tom
Funny thing is that I came to similar conclusion / result for speeding up my adjustments.
I went about adjusting the valves on my '80sc via the "backside" method as described on pellican. Per that method, I had a "go" and a "no go" feeler gauge. What I found was if I stuck the "no go"(aka, thicker feeler) in the backside between the cam and rocker face, and then snugged down the adjustment screw; I could then tighten the lock nut about 30-45 ish degrees and it would give me a feel that was just right for the "go" gauge because it would also turn the adjustment screw slightly when the lock nut was snugged down. Maybe this was a half *** way to do it, but i whizzed thru all the cylinders and turned the motor over by hand and then rechecked a second time and they were all spot on.
After reading this thread, I like the idea of the reference pins on the screwdriver because it gives you essentialy the same result as I came with, only easier due to the reference points being on the screwdriver, where as I was relying on the wrench on the nut as a reference.
Tom
01-17-2011, 06:27 PM
#69
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I would always use the feeler gauge to check the adjustment, as the jam nut or screw can turn a little bit during tightening. I didn't develop the tool as a replacement, just as an additional visual guide to help you get close... and to speed up the process.
01-17-2011, 07:28 PM
#70
Team Owner
i think even if the tool teaches you what the feeler guage should feel like it has done it's job. for those of us who have been around this our whole lives we have to remember to some it is a new and strange experience.
01-17-2011, 07:47 PM
#71
Rennlist Member
Get all of these nice "data points" and compare to the traditional setting (feel)...anybody done this,.? WIth strange curious results?
I like the traditional but haven't compared against the "alternate" (non-Porsche) methodologies....
They are certainly (all) interesting, nonetheless.
Best,
Doyle
I like the traditional but haven't compared against the "alternate" (non-Porsche) methodologies....
They are certainly (all) interesting, nonetheless.
Best,
Doyle
Last edited by dshepp806; 01-17-2011 at 07:48 PM. Reason: spelling
02-06-2011, 01:46 PM
#72
Pro
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if you're a tool freak you want this tool
if you love the feeler gauge method you still want it in your box
setting up these adjustments are clean and easy to begin with, although setting up old Detroit iron with the engine running and hot oil splashing in your face was always an experience
and if you work on your 911 the more toys the better especially for 25 bucks and a few for shipping
and Rennlist still hasn't signed me in after paying for 3 years of membership
02-06-2011, 02:04 PM
#73
Parts Specialist
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DONE THAT !!
02-06-2011, 02:53 PM
#74
RL Technical Advisor
Tom is right, one needs the feeler guage to confirm. This a very slick device and IMHO, worth having for those who do not do this for a living since everyone's skill levels aren't the same.
02-06-2011, 03:52 PM
#75
Race Car
If I already posted the following - disregard.
I learned the feeler WAY back on type one VWs, BMW bike/car, and benz diesels. The 911 really only differs in the reletive confinement. I was shown by an old time 911 tech to get the "feel" right. Doing this was simple. He took a measuring caliper, not the slide type we know, but the barrel/C-clamp style. Put the feeler (maybe a dab of oil rubbed on it) between the contacts and tighten it down to the thickness of the feeler...as measured by the caliper. slide the feeler around between the caliper contacts and bingo, you have the "feel". Now I have heard Porsche techs discuss a loose adjustment and a tight adjustment and all their reasoning. I do the caliper.