Is there any parts that almost, guaranteed need to be replaced?

For instance, my studs look very new while the rest of the motor looks aged. Of course, I want to avoid $850 studs but also want to avoid a broken head stud. I didnt know if these are one time use or not?

I have seen one rocker shaft that displays a small lip from wear and the rocker arm bushing shows some wear. Do I need to change them all?

The seals on the end of the rocker shaft are $120, do I need to go ahead and replace them or can they be reused?

My shadetree side says no to replacing all above but I sure as hell do not want to tear this motor down a second time for something I should of replaced the first time.....

 

I would replace anything that doesnt look normal unless a reputable machine shop has tested it, checked it, and given it there blessing... I believe head studs are recommended ANYTIME you do a rebuild. Not sure on the rockers... sure Pete and Steve and others can weigh in. Good luck with that...

 

I was just wondering is there any one time use items or ones that fall out of criteria almost everytime?

 

I know this is not part of your engine rebuild, but it's just a friendly reminder to replace all your fuel lines while you've got easy access to them. Removing the manifolds to do it later is quite a lot of labor.

My fuel line recently gave out and gasoline was spraying all over my hot engine. I feel very fortunate I still have a car.

 

Headstuds are good for more than one use. But, if yours are originals, I'd replace. A good set of studs should be a one time purchase.

Your rockers could be resurfaced and rebushed for not a lot of money.

Your rods needs to be resized with your over-rev. Your rodbolts should be replaced unless you know the original lengths of each one and can check for stretch-if they are a quality aftermarket piece. Stock rodbolts would be toast in yours.

I'd replace you timing chains and gears.

 

Alusil cylinders are one time use unless you're not planning on installing new piston rings. In that case, do not remove the pistons from the cylinders or else you'll be buying new cylinders. If you get lucky and have Nikasil cylinders, you can reuse them.

According to Wayne's book, the following items are necessary replacements:

Main bearings
Rod bearings
Rod bolts/nuts/bushings
Intermediate shaft bearings
Oil pressure switch
Timing chain
Chain ramps
Inner and outer valve springs
Valve guides
Flywheel bolts
Flywheel pilot bearing
Oil pressure relief piston springs
All engine gaskets, seals and o-rings

 

As far as head studs, the original steel ones (intake side) don't need to be replaced, but you definitely should replace the Dilavar ones on the exhause side with OEM steel ones. Or, you can spend more money and replace them all with shiny ARP or Raceware studs.

 

Are "there any parts that almost, guaranteed need to be replaced?"

Yes - every piece of rubber on the car, no matter how low the mileage - all the suspension bushings, door,hood,deck lid seals - even the seals inside the ventilation system

tires & brake hoses only last 7 years MAX - always replace for safety at that point

wiper blades - 6 months

fluids also:
brake fluid every 2 years
oil - yearly, no matter the mileage
trans oil - maybe 2 or 3 years
grease in CV joints - at a guess based on shelf life specs. - every 5 years

all the above are COMMONLY ignored

 

I have Push-lok already, good tip!

My headstuds look very new and black, I think I am ok.

Pelican say that cant find rocker arm bushings anymore? Wayne recommends replacing with new rockers.

Yeah, I am definetly resizing the rods and putting ARP's in.

I am for sure replacing chains and sprockets from Pelican.

Thanks Ed

Yeah Dave, I am going to get the book from my friend. Thanks for the summary.

I believe, like I said above, that I have good studs now because they are clean and black while the rest of the motor is kinda gunky.

Are you trying to break my bank? hehe

Thanks Randy!

 

My rockers were rebushed by Dougherty Racing Cams.....I believe that anyone who rebushes has to machine new bushings. Not having Porsche OEM isn't an issue for something as simple as this. I think most machine shops (I had good luck with Ollie's) that know older 911 engines will do this as well.

 

Brilliant! I will look into, thanks!

 

spendy - yup

but be sure the brakes are in good shape before you try out your new-again motor

 

Tippy,

Replace the exhaust (dilavar) studs as they will break no matter how good they look. I had two broken studs on an 88 with 88,000 miles. Extremely good care and stored in heated garage during the winters. The Porsche steel replacements were $10-11 each for the dozen. Mine looked great too since the bottom ones are epoxy coated to help them last longer.

ARP rod bolts are highly recommended over the factory one timers. Have fun with it

 

I will look into, thanks.