lucroberts

My 83 SC runs in perfect operating temp on the streets, even during the peak of summer or heavy traffic in South Florida (slightly above the first white mark). But when I drive her on the track it hits the last white mark before the red line (there is no temp figure in my gauge). I recently replaced the original "Trombone" single loop cooler for a real Oil Cooler (MOCAL 19 Row 235 Matrix) that fits perfectly in the right front fender but the temp on the track has not gone any lower. I'm avoiding going radical for a front spoiler cooler not to mod the original car. So what are my choices here?
1) Add the MOCAL 6.5" Electric Fan Kit on the Oil Cooler
2) Add a Cooling Scoop to the right fender removing the right turn lights on the bumper
3) Go Synthetic Oil (Mobil 1) instead of Castrol GTX ...???? Does it do any good ?

Any advice is more than welcome. Thanks !
Luciano

sjanes

I tried a cooling scoop (using the foglight hole), use M1, installed Elephant racing finned oil lines, and I still ran hot on the track with a Carrera factory cooler. I finally bit the bullet and added a new valance with a center oil cooler and now the temps stay below 200 all day long. I realize it's not what you want to do, but it is the best solution.

lucroberts

Yes Sejanes, I'm afraid you're right...I think the fan will do little help in my case. Do you get any leaks upgrading from Mineral to M1 ?

TroyN

Make sure your oil lines aren't crimped and your on-engine oil cooler's fins are clear. I had a second fender-mounted cooler installed on the driver's side too. Make sure the cooler is "insulated" around its perimeter so the air can't flow around the cooler but only through.

pu911rsr

SC's tend to run pretty lean, you maybe able to richen mixture up a bit with a tweak of CIS.
Phil

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Hi,

Assuming for the moment that your oil lines are not obstructed, your oil thermostats are working properly, and the front cooler is getting some air, you really need two oil coolers to control oil temps in your climate. Further, they need fans to control oil temps when idling in traffic.

Its cheaper than resealing your engine (due to oil leaks) and it definitely extends engine longevity.

For people who wish to retain the stock front valance, we typically install a second Carrera oil cooler on the left side and make sure both coolers receive air from the front of the car and add baffling so it cannot escape around or under the coolers.

The washer tank needs to be relocated to the trunk (using a smaller bottle) and I do move the horns to another location to improve airflow to the right side cooler.

I would not use Castrol GTX oil in anything as there are FAR FAR better choices.

Bill Verburg

The issue w/ the fender mount radiator style coolers is that they need lots of air going through them, unfortunately the fender wheel area is pretty stagnant wrt air flow. The result is that the coolers need to be huge compared to what would work in the clean air of the valance.

You can help by sealing the edges and opening the holes in the valance to let more air in.

911 race cars almost always have front mounts for a reason.

Edward

As was mentioned, you need air to flow through your cooler. While that may seem like an obvious point, it is often overlooked as most think that merely "having" a cooler is enough. I "sealed" the entire cooler area with sheet metal, screws, and pipe foam for the edges (all from home depot), opened up the front valance with a "hole" a bit larger than the carrera-sized foglight opening, and also have a side-marker scoop (just because I already had it and didn't want to dump it). All of which ensures that lots of air can enter the cooler area and all air can only flow through the cooler to exit. Never a prob with cooling in 95+ degree track days. Hope this helps.

Edward

racer

Additional ideas.. would be

1) Remove front turn signal/parking lights to enhance flow over the cooler (someone used to make a small scoop to replace the turn lens.. i tried it but had un-noticable results with this)
2) Remove headlight and cut holes in the bucket
3) Remove passenger side lower valance (runs at the base of the door) to expose the lines for greater airflow
4) Someone made (makes?) a slip on sleeve for the oil filter that has cooling fins that some claim is helpful
5) As mentioned, a fan might help more at low speeds than high, but it can't hurt, right?
6) Others still cut a small notch in the front valance

I am sure not many of these appeal to you and your likely very nice SC.
I went the "extreme" and got a new valance for a center front mount cooler and never had cooling issues again.

Even though you guage has only "white marks", if you angle just right, you can see small numbers, under the trim bezel. I forget if they are in farenheit or celsious, but I think that they are something like 170 and 220 degrees? I am sure someone out here remembers. I think "red" starts around 250 degrees.

BlackPearl

+1.

My '83 SC was a "hot-rod" for allthe wrong reasons on the track. So, here's what I did:

1) Installed cat-bypass to muffler. Cat gets very hot during track/full-throttle applications, so consider pulling cat. during track events.
2) Drilled and installed 2nd exhaust port ... on right side of muffler. Better breathing and better sound ... maybe a scruntch more power.
3) Installed brass factory Porsche oil cooler with Spal fan where trombone used to be. Replaced oil lines for assured flow.
Relocated horns and bracket for air flow.
4) Cut headlight bucket and used cut portions as air deflectors in right headlight assembly. Headlight goes in and out for street/track needs.
5) I use Royal Purple or Liqui-Moly 20-50 or 20-60 vis. synthetic oil. No leaks, good ZDDP content, excellent temp management.
6) Installed calibrated oil temp sender and gauge for accurate temp measurement.

Personally, I think stepping up to the rigors of tracking a car ... even a Porsche ... requires a little adjustment to the spec's the factory puts on a car for the street.

Heat management in an air-cooled car should be the first consideration for cars that operate in the heat of summer and/or being driven below the 40th parallel hard. After heat-management comes suspension and tires.

Of course, driver safety should come before any of it, IMHO. I think good safety equipment and great training are a safety must.

Good luck and happy tracking.

TT Oversteer

BlackPearl:

What procedure did you use to calibrate?

Chris M.

I've already been down this road and I can say that everything short of dual Carrera coolers in each fender or a huge front-mount cooler with appropriate valence are nothing but band-aids. I went for the monster Setrab with IROC bumpers and the problem is solved.

BlackPearl

The unit is sold pre-calibrated. Also, the face has actual temp. numbers in ferenheit (sp?) I got it through a local shop, but I think Performance Products or other after-market catalogue companies sell the units. Basically, it is a brass sender and a face/gauge calibrated to one another.

You have to unscrew the old sender from the engine bay (just to the right of the pully), and screw in the new sender ... remember to put the wire on. Then remove the gauge from the dash, carefully disassemble the temp gauge, and insert the new face in the gauge body (be careful not to loose or strip those itty-bitty screws). Again, don't forget to attach the wire.

Contact your local P-car specialist for purchase and installation if you have trouble finding the unit, or don't want to mess it up.

Good luck!!

BlackPearl

... I Y H O ....

I've had no issues with my set up so far. With all due respect, a well running car with proper after-market mods can be very effective. I run the SC flat-out on the desert raceways of SoCal with steady 220-degree temps all day. Maybe I'm just lucky?

AND, I'll agree: the most effective systems seem to include a front spoiler/valance oil cooler system.

Edward

And I'll agree as well

- One Carrera cooler, fender mounted, no fan.
- Properly ducted with exhaust path
- Good oil
- all else stock but in good, proper order.

Never a problem in hot SoCal tracks. Even short tracks like Streets of Willow in 100 deg weather. The temp needle "may" just hit 9:00 here, but is typically at around 8:30. You can rig a better set up, to be sure. But for a stock car, a few things done properly is all you need.

Edward