Source for Kendall GT-1
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Joined: May 2008
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From: Sacramento, CA
Source for Kendall GT-1
After much soul searching and hand wringing I've decided to stay with Dino oil for my '89 3.2. 
For some reason this is not a readily available oil in my neck of the woods (Sacramento, CA).
FYI: a little internet searching led me to www.jegs.com. They carry Kendall GT-1 in 20W 50 flavor. Free shipping, a small "handling" fee and no tax = $55 a case delivered to my door by the trusty UPS guy!
For some reason this is not a readily available oil in my neck of the woods (Sacramento, CA).
FYI: a little internet searching led me to www.jegs.com. They carry Kendall GT-1 in 20W 50 flavor. Free shipping, a small "handling" fee and no tax = $55 a case delivered to my door by the trusty UPS guy!
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From: Cumberland, RI
Keep in mind that Kendall GT1 is NOT the old legend anymore, since Conoco bought them out. In fact, the 10W-40 GT1 is SM rated, which is the brand of the antichrist for our cars. (Last time I looked, the 20W-50 was still SL).
The now-updated oil that WAS GT1 is essentially the Brad Penn Racing stuff that everyone's talking about. I've been using the BP stuff now for a few changes instead of worrying about the ZDDP additives on top of regular oil. BP is a partial synthetic.
Autozone here in New England carries Kendall, FWIW.
Also, theoilwarehouse.com is where I've gotten my BP, it's $44 / case + ~$20 to UPS to me in RI from the midwest.
The now-updated oil that WAS GT1 is essentially the Brad Penn Racing stuff that everyone's talking about. I've been using the BP stuff now for a few changes instead of worrying about the ZDDP additives on top of regular oil. BP is a partial synthetic.
Autozone here in New England carries Kendall, FWIW.
Also, theoilwarehouse.com is where I've gotten my BP, it's $44 / case + ~$20 to UPS to me in RI from the midwest.
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From: Hsv AL
I'd read this bit of history before buying Kendall.
http://www.bradpennracing.com/history.html
Note that Brad Penn retained the refinery & has continued the formulation of the once much loved GT-1, while the trade name only was sold. BP is an SJ formulation, when "oil was oil" for old-style engines like ours (ZDDP pkg), with some updates (like 10% synth). In these days, for oil products, "Suspect & Verify".
http://www.bradpennracing.com/history.html
Note that Brad Penn retained the refinery & has continued the formulation of the once much loved GT-1, while the trade name only was sold. BP is an SJ formulation, when "oil was oil" for old-style engines like ours (ZDDP pkg), with some updates (like 10% synth). In these days, for oil products, "Suspect & Verify".
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From: Bakersfield, CA, for now...
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From: Sacramento, CA
The controversy continues............
Pete Z uses the NEW (unimproved) Kendall GT-1 in his older car
Steve W swears by BP or Swepco
Mobil 1 15W50 supposedly has acceptable levels of zinc and phosphorus but we're spooked by its lack of documentation
Several posters here have had less than satisfactory experiences with BP: higher oil temps, foaming, leaks in older engines due to its partial synthetic nature
I wish Wall Street cared as much about our money as we do about the oil we put in our beloved cars
Steve W swears by BP or Swepco
Mobil 1 15W50 supposedly has acceptable levels of zinc and phosphorus but we're spooked by its lack of documentation
Several posters here have had less than satisfactory experiences with BP: higher oil temps, foaming, leaks in older engines due to its partial synthetic nature
I wish Wall Street cared as much about our money as we do about the oil we put in our beloved cars
uninformed gas bag
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
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From: Melbourne Beach
"By Jonathan A. Stein, reprinted courtesy of HagertyPlus, LLC, copyright 2008, www.hagerty.com."
GREAT RESOURCES
"MORE THAN AN OIL CHANGE"
By Jonathan A. Stein
Formula modifications could mean it's time to reexamine the oil you use in your collector car.
Most car enthusiasts can probably rattle off the automotive products that they've relied on for years. But when it comes to oil, recent composition changes driven by environmental concerns could mean your preferred brand of oil may not work so well in your collector car today. Many older vehicles use overhead valve engines with flat tappets that contact the camshaft lobe on one end and the rocker arm assembly on the other. The rocker arm assembly is relatively heavy and generally has a big valve with a heavy spring, resulting in a lot of pressure on the tappet and camshaft.
Years ago, oil companies and automakers discovered that zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) was effective in reducing cam and lifter wear, as the compound interacts with the iron of the cam lobe and creates a sacrificial barrier. As of 1988, the ZDDP concentration in oils certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API) standardized at up to 1200 PPM (parts per million) phosphorous. However, phosphorous levels were brought down to
the 800 PPM level by 2004 because high phosphorus concentrations shorten catalytic converter life in modern cars, and modern roller cam engines don't require ZDDP's protection.
Soon, rebuilders of flat-tappet engines - particularly those from the 1950s to the 1970s - were noting increased cam failure on newly assembled engines. Many engine builders have tied the failures to the reformulated oils, although API spokesman Dennis Bachelder asserts that API-ranked oils are compatible with older vehicles and the ZDDP levels in current SM-rated oils are sufficient to protect flat-*tappet engines.
If you're in doubt about using the current generation 800 PPM SM-rated oils, try these options:
. Oils rated for both diesel and gasoline engines (up to 1000 PPM) are available from Shell (shell.us/views/consumers.html) and Chevron
(chevron.com/products/extramile/).
. Valvoline's VR1 Racing Motor Oil (valvoline.com/racing) has up to 1300 PPM of ZDDP.
. Castrol's SYNTEC 20W/50 full synthetic product (castrol.com) has 1200 PPM of ZDDP (check that the rear label says Recommended for Classic Cars), and Red Line Motor Oils (redlineoil.com) - also synthetic - have about 1300 PPM zinc and 1200 PPM phosphorous, although synthetics aren't suited for the break-in period.
. BRAD PENN Penn Grade 1 Racing Oil (bradpennracing.com) is a mineral-oil alternative with nearly 1500 PPM of ZDDP.
. Classic Car Motor Oil (classiccarmotoroil.com) from the Indiana Region of the Classic Car Club of America manufactured and bottled by D-A Lubricant Company, Inc. (dalube@dalube.com) contains 1500-1600 PPM.
. Use a ZDDP additive such as ZDDPLUS (zddplus.com) or Cam-Shield
(camshield.com) with every oil change.
. Additional protection, essential during the start-up phase for any fresh engine, can be provided by generous use of an assembly lube with a large dose of ZDDP like GM E.O.S. Assembly Lube (PN 1052367) (newgmpartsusa.com).
With these options, there's no need to worry about your camshaft. But it's always a good idea to line up supplies along your route before you take to the road."
GREAT RESOURCES
"MORE THAN AN OIL CHANGE"
By Jonathan A. Stein
Formula modifications could mean it's time to reexamine the oil you use in your collector car.
Most car enthusiasts can probably rattle off the automotive products that they've relied on for years. But when it comes to oil, recent composition changes driven by environmental concerns could mean your preferred brand of oil may not work so well in your collector car today. Many older vehicles use overhead valve engines with flat tappets that contact the camshaft lobe on one end and the rocker arm assembly on the other. The rocker arm assembly is relatively heavy and generally has a big valve with a heavy spring, resulting in a lot of pressure on the tappet and camshaft.
Years ago, oil companies and automakers discovered that zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) was effective in reducing cam and lifter wear, as the compound interacts with the iron of the cam lobe and creates a sacrificial barrier. As of 1988, the ZDDP concentration in oils certified by the American Petroleum Institute (API) standardized at up to 1200 PPM (parts per million) phosphorous. However, phosphorous levels were brought down to
the 800 PPM level by 2004 because high phosphorus concentrations shorten catalytic converter life in modern cars, and modern roller cam engines don't require ZDDP's protection.
Soon, rebuilders of flat-tappet engines - particularly those from the 1950s to the 1970s - were noting increased cam failure on newly assembled engines. Many engine builders have tied the failures to the reformulated oils, although API spokesman Dennis Bachelder asserts that API-ranked oils are compatible with older vehicles and the ZDDP levels in current SM-rated oils are sufficient to protect flat-*tappet engines.
If you're in doubt about using the current generation 800 PPM SM-rated oils, try these options:
. Oils rated for both diesel and gasoline engines (up to 1000 PPM) are available from Shell (shell.us/views/consumers.html) and Chevron
(chevron.com/products/extramile/).
. Valvoline's VR1 Racing Motor Oil (valvoline.com/racing) has up to 1300 PPM of ZDDP.
. Castrol's SYNTEC 20W/50 full synthetic product (castrol.com) has 1200 PPM of ZDDP (check that the rear label says Recommended for Classic Cars), and Red Line Motor Oils (redlineoil.com) - also synthetic - have about 1300 PPM zinc and 1200 PPM phosphorous, although synthetics aren't suited for the break-in period.
. BRAD PENN Penn Grade 1 Racing Oil (bradpennracing.com) is a mineral-oil alternative with nearly 1500 PPM of ZDDP.
. Classic Car Motor Oil (classiccarmotoroil.com) from the Indiana Region of the Classic Car Club of America manufactured and bottled by D-A Lubricant Company, Inc. (dalube@dalube.com) contains 1500-1600 PPM.
. Use a ZDDP additive such as ZDDPLUS (zddplus.com) or Cam-Shield
(camshield.com) with every oil change.
. Additional protection, essential during the start-up phase for any fresh engine, can be provided by generous use of an assembly lube with a large dose of ZDDP like GM E.O.S. Assembly Lube (PN 1052367) (newgmpartsusa.com).
With these options, there's no need to worry about your camshaft. But it's always a good idea to line up supplies along your route before you take to the road."
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From: Winchester,Va
Rotella T ? Good stuff,but my car see's 80% track time anymore and 15W/ anything won't hold up IMHO. In NH, 15/40 would be a good street choice. If your south of the M/D line, 20/50 would serve you better spring to fall.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 11,870
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From: Portland Oregon
IMHO, you should be aware that ALL motor oils (gas & diesel) have been reformulated and diesel oils no longer contain the same robust additive package as years gone by. In short, what were once good products and valid practices, are no longer.
My suggestion would be to carefully read the label and note whether your diesel oil is API-CI (still good) or API-CJ (not so good anymore).
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From: Hsv AL
Indeed, for so many years, Rotella T was the best solution for street application, mixed fleet usage. You could get it anywhere on the planet (well, where there WAS oil). For years, I used it on my Alfas & Bimmers, along w/ Valvoline & Kendall (Mobil 1 went in the 3.2 when it joined the family).
Anyway, to paraphrase, "past formulation & applicability do not guarantee a present one". Alan Caldwell has a very good article in the Oct. Panorama on the topic - it is pretty clear what's going on & why. Porsche no longer even specifies an API Service classification in the manuals (just viscosities). Charles N's website is referenced. "Energy Conserving Oil" (thin) & "Environmentally Friendly" (little or no ZDDP pkg) oils are suspect for our pre-enlightenment motors - fortunately, there are altenatives.
Anyway, to paraphrase, "past formulation & applicability do not guarantee a present one". Alan Caldwell has a very good article in the Oct. Panorama on the topic - it is pretty clear what's going on & why. Porsche no longer even specifies an API Service classification in the manuals (just viscosities). Charles N's website is referenced. "Energy Conserving Oil" (thin) & "Environmentally Friendly" (little or no ZDDP pkg) oils are suspect for our pre-enlightenment motors - fortunately, there are altenatives.
