Weber IDT set up
#1
2nd Gear
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Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Wales
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Can anyone help.
According to my research, with the float raised 12.5 mm, the needle valve should 'hang down' 18mm. and the distance from the float tab to the top face of the main body should be the same i.e. 18 mm.
The needle valves that I got with the rebuild kit 'hang down' between 23mm
and 24mm. I'm worried about bending the float tabs this far!!
Can you use shims to get the 18mm distance? - if so where do I source them?
Thanks
Cameron
According to my research, with the float raised 12.5 mm, the needle valve should 'hang down' 18mm. and the distance from the float tab to the top face of the main body should be the same i.e. 18 mm.
The needle valves that I got with the rebuild kit 'hang down' between 23mm
and 24mm. I'm worried about bending the float tabs this far!!
Can you use shims to get the 18mm distance? - if so where do I source them?
Thanks
Cameron
#2
RL Technical Advisor
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Cam,
You may have received the wrong needle valves since these should be the same length as the originals.
The very best way to accurately check float levels is by using a sight-glass guage attached to the carburetor that allows one to see precise float levels while the engine is running. One simply shims the needle valves up or down as needed with either fiber or copper washers.
You may have received the wrong needle valves since these should be the same length as the originals.
The very best way to accurately check float levels is by using a sight-glass guage attached to the carburetor that allows one to see precise float levels while the engine is running. One simply shims the needle valves up or down as needed with either fiber or copper washers.
#4
RL Technical Advisor
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The shims are part of every Weber overhaul kit and you might need to sand them a bit in case they are too thick to make any corrections.
I use a piece of #400 sandpaper,....
I use a piece of #400 sandpaper,....
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