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Removing heat exchangers

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Old 08-15-2001, 11:39 PM
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gt3r
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Question Removing heat exchangers

Hi All, i have an 85 3.2L and I was thinking about upgrading to SSI's but upon looking at the original exchangers it seems that the exhaust bolts are severly rusted. The allen bolts also look pretty rusted. The question is....what is the best way to remove the exhaust bolts and will they mre than likely shear off, resulting in having the heads re-tapped?? (More trouble than its worth??) thanks for any suggestions.

mike
Old 08-16-2001, 08:32 AM
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davis911s
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Mike use a torch to heat up the bolts then turn them, if you don't have access to a torch I would go to a muffler shop and have them take off then put them back on. That way when you get home you will be able to take them off yourself.

If you don't use heat there is a good chance you will break one or more (ask me how I know )

Shawn
Old 08-16-2001, 09:09 AM
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Paul Brewer
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Originally posted by davis911s:
<STRONG>Mike use a torch to heat up the bolts then turn them, if you don't have access to a torch I would go to a muffler shop and have them take off then put them back on. That way when you get home you will be able to take them off yourself.

If you don't use heat there is a good chance you will break one or more (ask me how I know )

Shawn</STRONG>
I'd like to add that it's best to use an oxy-acetylene torch to get to the temperature that's needed to break down the rust. If you don't have access to one then davis911s' suggestion to go to a muffler shop will work.
Old 08-16-2001, 11:08 AM
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Dial 911
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Easy now, with the muffler shop idea.
I wouldn't trust some moron down at the local Midas with my motors exhaust studs!

They probably have none to limited experience with a Porsche motor. What if they do what they are normally used to doing, and cut the studs clean off with the torch?!

I would suggest you take the car to a qualified Porsche mechanic who has done it before and knows the pitfalls.

The studs will be very tight, likely corroded, and will snap-off at the slightest hint of ham-fistedness. The use of a very hot torch to get them cherry red is usually the only way. Penetrating oils are next to useless. When you do get thm off, ask the mechanic to apply a liberal coat of Never-Sieze to all the studs. It will help next time you need to remove the parts.
Old 08-16-2001, 01:05 PM
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Clark Griswald
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When you heat the studs, do you let them cool fully before attempting to remove the nuts? or is this done while warm, or hot?
Old 08-16-2001, 06:07 PM
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pbs911
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I did this to my 78SC about 6 months ago. Before I even attempted to apply heat and turn the nuts, I applied penetrating oil to nuts every day for about three weeks. I then heated the nuts to a cherry red, let the nuts cool down. I repeated the heat up/cool down process 2 or 3 times for each nut. Then before attempting to loosen the nut I gave a little turn to tighten it. The process went forth without a single bolt snapping. If you are hesitant, I would suggest having an experienced P-car wrench do the change. Good luck!



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