arbeitm

I think my troubles may be fuel related.

The engine starts, however this morning after it sat overnight I had to press the throttle a few times to get it to start the first time. Once started it idles at 1,200 for a second and then the rpms begin to drop until it stalls out. Pressing the throttle while the rpms are dropping does not help and the engine continues to drop and stall regardless.

I'm ruling out an ignition problem because the engine starts (am I incorrect to assume this?).

When I turn the key to the ON position I can hear the buzzing of the fuel pump from the front. The fuel pump fuse is fine. I checked for battery power at the relay and that is fine too. I have also done the check on the fuel distributor by pushing the plunger up from the air box. I heard the screaming sound when I did that.

However, I did notice there seemed to be some fuel in the air box. Does this lead to any ideas?

I think my next move might be to check the fuel pressure, but I don't have a CIS tester, so I may have to order one first before I can move on. Unless someone has another idea of what this may be.

Houpty GT

Be careful with that throttle when starting the car, if you don't have a popoff valve than you may blow your airbox. It could be an issue with the control plunger since you did notice the fuel in the airbox. Sounds like the mixture isn't right, probably lean. Look for vacuum leaks. Check to make sure your computer is working. Do this by pressing up on the air plate and seeing if the frequency valve makes noise. You can check your mixture, while the car is still idling push up on the airflow plate just a little to add fuel to see if idle speed increases. You can tilt the oil filler cap a little to add air to see if it speeds up or slows down.

lfe132

Possible fuel regulator or fuel dampener?

3.2SLANTNOSE

Can't help with your "fuel" problem, but I was looking at the side shot picture of your car, or at least I think that it is probably your car, is something wrong with your left rear sway bar mount broken? The reason I ask, in that picture, it looks too close to the ground??? Just thought I would mention it.

arbeitm

I have the pop off valve in my air box, and I checked it out last night for cracks. I didn't see any. I just purchased a CIS fuel tester, so hopefully that will shed some light on things when I get it. I did do the air plate check last night, and I heard the screaming sound, so I think that is working properly.

3.2 SLANTNOSE - I think it's just the angle or the shadow in the picture. The rear sway mounts are really not that close to the ground in person.

psychoideas

G'day Matt,

It should start off the key with no throttle input at all. If it does not I'd be looking at the cold start valve to see if it works with power. If that's OK i'd then go to the temp sensor ( I think it's called the thermo time switch but I could be wrong) that tells the cold start that the engine is hot.
Next in line is the Warm up regulator (Cold control pressure regulator) When Cold, this allows more fuel to bleed off the top of the plunger in the fuel distributor, making the plunger easier to move and thus enriching the mixture for startup. This leans the mixture out as the WUR warms up.

Does it start OK when the engine is hot?

Hope this helps a bit.

arbeitm

I will check that stuff out tonight, while I wait for my fuel pressure tester.

It starts fine without the throttle input. The problem is it dies out right away.

bob b

You need to rule out ignition problems. When it dies and won't start, pull the coil wire and hold it close to ground while someone cranks the motor. You should see a blue spark that will jump at least 1/4". Bob

3.2SLANTNOSE

Okie dokie Matt, just looked a little low. Hope you get the problem sorted out. Tony.

arbeitm

This may sound dumb, but is it okay to hold the ignition wire while you do this? I'm afraid of getting zapped.

I'm waiting for my fuel pressure tester to be delivered, but I decided to do some more checking tonight.

The engine is still starting with no problem. It will run for about a minute and then the idle will drop and it will struggle to stay alive until it stalls. Each time it stalls there is a pop in the air box (I have the pop-off valve) and I can smell fuel.

I tried enriching the mixture with the setting screw and I was able to keep the engine from stalling. However it was running very rough and every time I pressed the throttle the RPM's would drop and it will pop in the air box.

Does this shed any light on anything?

3.2SLANTNOSE

You could use well insulated needle nose pliers to hold the cable, so you don't get bit.

arbeitm

Ok...thanks.

But on another note...

I was just searching the board and found that the domelight/clock fuse also provides power to the Lambda brain.

Just prior to my problem, I was removing my interior dome light because it was stuck and I wanted to see if it could be fixed or needed to be replaced. Upon putting it back in I got a spark. It's possible that I could have blown the fuse when it sparked. I didn't think anything of it at the time.

Could this be it???

UPDATE...

I just had my wife go out and look at the clock to see what time it showed. I took the battery out the car last night to recharge at around 8:30PM so the clock should show that time. However it shows about 11:30. That the was around the time on Monday that I was working on the dome light when I got that spark. I'm starting to think this may be the problem.

3.2SLANTNOSE

I may be that.

Houpty GT

I didn't think you checked it when you said you heard screaming. You need to make sure the fuel distributor/pump make their noise and that the frequency valve located behind (towards the front of the car) also buzzes with its preset duty cycle.

arbeitm

I didn't have time to check things out last night...the Giants were on. But I was able to confirm that the clock/dome light fuse was bad. I'm thinking this must be my problem. I will replace the fuse and confirm tonight.

I did notice also that someone (PO) stuck a 8A fuse in there when it calls for a 5A fuse. So now I'm hoping there was no circuitry damage as a result of this.

My fuel pressure tester was delivered yesterday and I don't even think I will need it. However I'm thinking that since I'm in the CIS mode right now (I've beed reading so much on it) I might as well check all the components out and correct any problems. I'd love to get the car running perfect.

I'll update later on...with hopefully good news.