Gary_C

I'll be changine the oil on my wife's '78 SC. Any help on steps to do this right?
Also.Will I need to go to A Porsche Dealer to get the Filter.All we have around here is Car Quest, Auto Zone and Napa.
The Dealer is 50-60 miles away.
Also any specific brand of filter. Plus would you use 20W50 with summer coming on and is Castrol a good choice. Or ???
Thanks for your help!
Gary

Jay H

Gary:

Remember that you have to drain both the crankcase and the oil tank. Be prepared to catch ~ 10-11 quarts of oil. Replace both crush washers on each oil plug for a leak free seal. Some people pierce a hole in the oil filter when it is still on in order to let the filter drain out so it doesn't leak all over the engine compartment as you take it off.

20W 50 is a great weight of oil for summer temps.

Castrol is just fine.

Do NOT use cheap filter such as Fram on your 911. I've seen Fram's get sucked together. Buy an OEM filter from Porsche or your favorite mail order source.

Good Luck (It's easy!)
Jay
<a href="http://www.jays911.com" target="_blank">90 964</a>

Bill Gregory

Gary,

First, go to Car Quest or Autozone and get an inexpensive 12 quart drain pan. You'll thank me.

Filter, while you can buy one from a dealer, I would just order a couple of Mahle OC54's (so you'll have one on hand next time). Mahle was the filter manufacturer for Porsche before their contract ended a few years back. Paragon Products, a Rennlist sponsor, carries them for $5.21 each, <a href="http://www.paragon-products.com" target="_blank">www.paragon-products.com</a> . Do not use any other brand filter. Mahle first, Porsche second, there is no third. There is an internal construction with a bypass valve that others don't have.

Oil brand is a religious discussion. If you change your oil often, almost any one will do. In the dino oils, Kendall has a following. In the synthetics, Mobil 1 also has a following. Of course there are other good brands of dino and synthetic oils. Do an archive search to see what Porsche currently recommends, all but one are synthetic. Your owners handbook can guide you to what weight oil to use, or again in the archives are Porsche recommendations on what outside temps to use what weight oils. This has also been covered in the PCA Panorama in recent years.

If you're going to do other work on your SC, you may want to consider getting the Bentley 911SC Service Manual. It's around $75-$80 over the internet (list $119), and has lots of good procedures and pictures to guide you through many tasks (full disclosure notice: I provided input to the current edition).

Gary_C

Jay and Bill.
Thanks for getting back with me so quickly. I certainly appreciate your advice on the Filter, Oil,
drain pan and The Bentley Manual.Since we have two running 911's I'll order 4 or 5 Filters.
Do either of you have any info on the 934 Porsche.I like the look and would, or am planning on building that look using the 1969 Project car we have. Just bought the fender flares (extensions) and will be changing out the Fiberglass fender flares (front and rear) for Steel ones.Along with the Valance, rockers, bumpers etc.
Any ideas or thoughts on this and where to get additional info concerning wheels to use, size etc.

Thanks again for the help.
Gary C.

emcon5

Make sure the oil container has a large opening. The oil comes out in a hurry, and jugs with a built in funnel can end up making a mess. (ask me how I know)

Also consider buying 101 Projects for you 911, available at Borders/Barnes & Noble, etc. You can get it from Pelican Parts for a couple dolars more, but it comes autographed.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Gary_C:
<strong>Do either of you have any info on the 934 Porsche.I like the look and would, or am planning on building that look using the 1969 Project car we have. Just bought the fender flares </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Cool choice. I would love to build a 934 replica someday.

There were a couple threads on the 934 on the Pelican BBS a while back:

<a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59238" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59238</a>
<a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90728" target="_blank">http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=90728</a>
and a bunch of pictures of a 934 that was in Jerry Wood's shop when Wayne (Pelican owner)took the Bruce Anderson engine rebuild class.
<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/swapmeet_pics/bruce-jerry/page1.htm" target="_blank">http://www.pelicanparts.com/swapmeet_pics/bruce-jerry/page1.htm</a>

I think the only wheels that would look right on a 934 are gold mesh BBS's. 15"s would probably be apropriate, but I understand nobody makes tires for the wide 15" wheels any more, so that probably isn't a good idea.

Hope this helps,

Tom

pjc

Hey man,

Two 911's - planning on 934 project car and you want to know how to change the oil?

You've got to be kidding!!!

Don't forget to get the car off the deck or you won't be able to place the oil container. Also - don't go by the volume of oil quoted in the manuals - remember that some oil will remain in the front oil cooler and front to back pipes. I usually try about 10 litres, run up to temperature, dip the tank and complete fill.

PJC

Bill Gregory

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica"><strong> Do either of you have any info on the 934 Porsche.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Gary,

Three sources come to mind. John Starkey's "930 to 935, The Turbo Porsches" (believe there's an expanded 2nd edition available), Bruce Anderson's "Porsche 911 Performance Handbook", and Paul Frere's "Porsche 911 Story". Bruce Anderson has a couple of articles that may be of interest <a href="http://www.911handbook.com/articles/article_pwdavem934.html" target="_blank">here</a> and <a href="http://www.911handbook.com/articles/article_pwgarretson935.html" target="_blank">here.</a> If you follow the evolution of the 934 to 935, there's also a movie that was put out a few years ago called "Porsche 935: Moby and the Warhorse Gang". The only source I know for it, as I have been looking to pick it up, is Smart Racing. You can read the description of it at the <a href="http://www.smartracingproducts.com" target="_blank">www.smartracingproducts.com</a> site - it's on page 33 of their catalog.

rfuerst

I agree with emcon5,make sure the drain pan is the type with a very large opening,if you use the type with the small drain hole(aprox. 1-11/2inches)they can not handle the volume of oil and you will end up with your own version of the Exxon Valdes!!Replace the drain plug sealing gaskets,put aprox. 8 quarts of oil in(I use 20w50 Kendall)and start the motor and let it idle up to temp and check the oil level,keep adding oil until the level on the dipstick is halfway between the 2 marks and you are done.Paragon Products has great prices on filters as mentioned above.I buy my sealing gaskets from Autozone,copper M22 and they work fine.Good luck.

HarryD

Ther above advise is what I do. I have used Castrol and Valvoline 20-50.

When you refill the crankcase, add only about 8 or 9 quarts. Start the engine and get it to full operating temperature before you check the level and add more. Too much oil in these cars is an incredibly messy and potentially damaging thing.

When you check the level, remember:
* FLAT surface
* FULL operating temp
* Oil level MIDWAY between min and max. It is two quarts between these marks.

Good luck.

Ed Bighi

The BBS wheels in the 934 were actually 16's. More accurately, 16x10.5 front and 16x12.5 rear. Keep in mind the flare extensions go over the standard turbo flares and not sc. The 934 was a neat car. It had the 935 flat fan for excellent cooling, air/water intercooling due to regulations requiring the use of the standard homologation model (930) decklid, and CIS to make all that power. There were some tricks to that CIS like a cone bolted to the metering plate to smooth the airflow there. I have to try that someday on my sc. Supposedly, it was one heck of a beast to drive. By that I mean hard. That's due to the lack of downforce due to the standard tail, and the 14 inch limit by FIA for rear tires in the back. Not to meantion the on or off nature of the boost. Though some 934's eventually became 934 and a half's, which were easier to drive. What that means is a 934 with the 935 rear wing and Kugelfischer mechanical on some. Others even ran 935 back wheels. Also, a lot of 934's were converted to full blown 935's. I personally love the 934 as well as the 935. If someone gave me a Carrera GT today, I would sell it the next day to grab either one of those. I would have much more fun with maybe some money left over. I still hate myself for missing the best deal I have ever seen on a 934. This is for a completely stock, unmolested, unraced 934 that sold for 993 turbo money at the time. This was in 1999 at the Doubletree auction in Monterey. While I did not have the money then, I could have and should have gotten the funds because that is one heck of an investment.

emcon5

Well, it seems there is something else you need to check for, <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=109509" target="_blank">holes in your brand new drain pan.</a>

There is a good picture of the oil coming out of the tank there as well. Give you a good idea of how fast it comes out.

Tom

HarryD

FYI. I use the 16 quart pan pictured here. It has a large opening with screen on the side to collect the oil. You then put a cover over the hole, stand it up and pour the oil out through a spout on the top.

<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/HD-Oilpan1.jpg" alt=" - " /> <img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/HD-Oilpan2.jpg" alt=" - " />

Gary_C

Harry, Where did you pick up the oil drain pan.That is a great item.
Thank you for your response on my post!
Gary C.

RandalJ

I bought my '86 Carrera last September, and now have two oil changes under my belt. Just wanted to offer some helpful tips regarding oil recepticles and oil filters.

I, too, did the Exxon Valdez thing, using an enclosed container that had wide, funnel-shaped collection dish that screwed on to the top of he container. It was fine for the oil coming from the bottom of the engine, but just could not keep up with the oil cascading out of the reservoir. But I did not give up on the enclosed container concept, because it does save you the trouble of transferring oil to an enclosed container, and taking it to a suitable dump.

At Checker Auto, they sell a 15 quart enclosed pan that is JUST able to keep up. It is round and has a spout on one side for dumping the oil. About the only negative is that if it is full of oil, it has to lay flat. I think I saw the same model at Auto-Zone.

Another tip - Checker also sells a plastic "end-fitting" 3/8ths drive oil filter wrench. It's just a giant socket. Perfect for getting the Malhe filters off. Just bring your new filter in before the change to make sure you get the right size . I had hand tightened the filter after my first change, but just could not get it off for the second change.

By the way, and old rag placed under the filter should take care of any drips.

RandalJ

I bought my '86 Carrera last September, and now have two oil changes under my belt. Just wanted to offer some helpful tips regarding oil recepticles and oil filters.

I, too, did the Exxon Valdez thing, using an enclosed container that had wide, funnel-shaped collection dish that screwed on to the top of he container. It was fine for the oil coming from the bottom of the engine, but just could not keep up with the oil cascading out of the reservoir. But I did not give up on the enclosed container concept, because it does save you the trouble of transferring oil to an enclosed container, and taking it to a suitable dump.

At Checker Auto, they sell a 15 quart enclosed pan that is JUST able to keep up. It is round and has a spout on one side for dumping the oil. About the only negative is that if it is full of oil, it has to lay flat. I think I saw the same model at Auto-Zone.

Another tip - Checker also sells a plastic "end-fitting" 3/8ths drive oil filter wrench. It's just a giant socket. Perfect for getting the Malhe filters off. Just bring your new filter in before the change to make sure you get the right size . I had hand tightened the filter after my first change, but just could not get it off for the second change.

By the way, and old rag placed under the filter should take care of any drips.