gerry100

Just got "101 projects", and from initial read looks like a good investment( even an oil change is a little different with our cars).

I'm intrigued by the section on valve adjustment. The book makes it look simple enough to try at home.( '86 3.2 by the way)

I'm an oil change/shocks/filters etc level mechanic who has or can get the basic tools.

Do I need a lift for this job?.

This looks like a way to save some dough, but I don't want to get in over my head.

Any advice/experiences?

Thanks in advance.

Rick Lee

I'm at about your level of wrench prowess and I fully plan to do my own valve adj. in the spring. Pelican has a good tech article on it and I plan to get some more advice from my local PCA buddies at our next tech session in March 2002. Looks like it could take most of one day for amateurs like us. But I'm eager to learn and am told it's totally within my capabilities.

Chris Martin

Rick, maybe I will see you at tech in March, I am sure I will think of something to do to my SC by then!

A valve adjustment seems to be a right of passage on these cars, once you complete one you are ready for more!

Chris

BER

Gerry,

Based on description of other tasks you have done to your 911, you should go ahead and do your own valve adjustment.

I adjust the valves on my 911's ('84 and '77) in my home garage. I do not need a lift. I do raise the rear end of the car with my floor jack and place jack stands under the ends of the rear torsion bar tubes.

I found the the two most difficult aspects of a valve adjustment for a "1st timer" are 1) getting access to the valves, and 2) setting the correct adjustment.

Your access can be hampered by the a/c compressor (RH intakes) and the cat converter (LH exhausts). I don't have a/c on my cars, so that's not an issue for me. I have a cat test pipe on my '84 Carrera and it does not have to be removed to adjust the LH exhausts.

My experience is a "1st timer" will tend to adjust the valves to loose. I use the P203(?) tool to adjust the valves. When properly adjusted, the feeler blade will have some drag on it when you slide it around. Kind of hard to describe, but it's like you are dragging the feeler guage across a magnet. The final trick is to make sure the adjustment gap does not change when you tighten the lock nut on the valve.

There are several good articles about this job on the Porsche boards. I like the Pelican tech article, because it has good pictures.

I am not a mechanic (far from it), but I find the valve adjustment is very doable and gives me the satisfaction of working on my own cars.

Feel free to contact me via email if you want to discuss.

Regards, Bruce

Hugh

I'm all for doing as much stuff myself as possible. However, I should mention what happened to my car. When I got it @ 90K, it seemed that many valves had been overtightened, which wore rocker arms and the cams way out of tolerance to the point where they all needed to be replaced. Mucho, mucho dinero. Since I don't have records on the car, I have no idea who did it, but I'd bet on a previous owner. So, be careful! And please tell us how it goes. I'd love to save that dough myself, but based on my experience so far I'd rather have someone with 100+ adjustments under his belt do it.

Cheers,

JDaniel

It's one of those things, that once you get the hang of it, you'll wonder why you paid someone $200+ to do it. Almost as easy as saving $100 by changing your own oil.

Take your time, don't get frustrated, double check your work, and don't forget to LOCKTITE THE NUTS on the P203 feeler tool. The standard valve cover kit works fine, you don't need to go crazy here. $20-$20 and it includes new nylock nuts and washers. Re-useable gaskets sound great, but if you rip one upon removal then you are SOL.

When you are done you can fire her up and listen for excess tapping from the valves. It is relatively easy to jack up one side of the car at a time, remove the covers and re-check the valves. You won't even need to drain the oil. Just turn the crankshaft 240 degrees each time instead of 120.

The pelican Article is excellent. Read and re-read it.

Dan Tolley
1987 911 Coupe

PS. Don't over torque the covers.

Paul Brewer

I just want to expound on a some of points previously mentioned:
* I didn't locktite the nuts/screws on the feeler gage tool. Of course, it came apart and I panicked when I thought I dropped the nut into the exhaust valve. After completly sweeping my garage floor I found the little bugger, much to my relief.
* Whe you loosen the locknut on the tappet, pull the rocker arm up to break the oil film between the tappet and the valve stem. Otherwise you won't be able to get the feeler gage in between.
* If the valves are adjusted correctly there will be a tiny bit of tappet noise until the engine warms up.

You will have to psyche yourself up to do the valves the first time but it can be a confidence-building exercise and a source of real pride. Be sure to take your time.

Buffalo

Here is my take. I spent many years working on my daily drivers because I had no choice i.e. raising kids, one income earner in the household etc. I swore when I could afford it I was going to have the work done on my cars. My automotive experience centers around several American rebuilds and some Harley Davidson work.

However,Over the years, I have learned my limitations. In addition, I find that as I fast approach 50 years on this earth, I have less patience for some things mechanical.

I picked up my first 911 sc in April. Purchased new valve gaskets and the feeler gauge to do the adjustment myself. Afterall, how difficult could it be?

Well, after breaking the gauge off between the valve stem and the adjuster, I said "The hell with this," buttoned it back up and took it in for the adjustment - $195.00. I found the process very awkward and time comsuming.

Given that this Porsche is not a daily driver and will probably only need an adjustment every two years or so (based on 15,000 mile recommendation), I feel this process is best left to those who do it often and have more patience.

I am not a total mechanical failure, I am doing alot of other things to the car and I am sure that I will come across other things that are best left to the pros.

Just one mans experience and opinion.

I did notice that after the adjustment - no more popping back through the airbox and the car runs great!

unirig

I was told by a very good porsche mechanic to charge the cyclinder with air and lightly tap on the valve stem to make sure that it is seated (no carbon deposits holding it open). Since the clearance is only .004 of an inch, it wouldn't take much to hang it up. I drilled out an old spark plug and soldered a piece of tubing to it with a schrader valve (looks like a valve stem) on the other end.

Dial 911

Sure you can, Gerry!
There's lots of good advice given here already...the "break the oil film" one is especially correct.

Here's another couple...

If you have a micrometer, set it at 0.004", and actually see the tiny little gap you'll be trying to find....in a very tight space! Now, at least you have an inkling of what you're up against!!

Also, if you're a member of a PCA region or similar club, try to find a "buddy" to help coach you through your first adjustment. You won't believe how much smoother that will make things go.

Clark Griswald

Yes! You can do it.

This is a cherry-popping experience. Tends to take 2-3 times to really get the hang of it. The hard part is sliding the gauge into place. You need to bring it in sideways.

Just take your time. And be sure the nuts on the gauge stay tight, and the blade is not about to break off. You don't want to leave those parts in the engine.

Just check them after each valve and all will be fine.

chris walrod

dont forget to do this on a stone cold engine

Chris

Paul Brewer

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Buffalo:
[QB]I spent many years working on my daily drivers because I had no choice i.e. raising kids, one income earner in the household etc.

Buffalo, I have to agree with you. Working on daily drivers is PRESSURE. They have to be running that night or at the end of the weekend, ect. and that makes it no fun.

I had not worked on any car for the last 15 years when I bought my SC last May (I thought that I had my fill after restoring a Corvette in the '80's). Inside of a month, though, I had my mechanic's "chops" back. Since the SC is not my daily driver I can take my time and enjoy the experience. Having said that, I sometimes have to take several deep breaths or quit for the night if things aren't going my way. Usually the next day I have a new plan to attack a problem and it goes better.

I can see the possiblilty that some day I won't be interested in working on my car if I owned a 996 but that makes the case for keeping my SC for many years.

Dial 911

Paul writ:
I can see the possiblilty that some day I won't be interested in working on my car
if I owned a 996 but that makes the case for keeping my SC for many years.

Amen to that, Paul!

john walkers workshop

best to leave the plugs in until you're done with the adjustment. there's a chance of dropping some carbon bits which can get sandwiched between the exhaust valve and seat, creating what feels like too much clearance at the rocker. after adjusting to .004, you fire it up, the carbon goes away, and you have less clearance right away.