Negotiate before or after PPI?
#16
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Encinitas Ca.
Posts: 837
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
jakeflyer, owns a spread and writes like William Buckly Jr? What the ______?
2qwik4u, when I bought my last car everything on the PPI was fine. I bought the car and the air conditioning compressor went out and it needed new shocks ( in my mind ) and I had major done on it because then I could start from zero. So $2400.00 later in repairs.. Keep a little out on the side.....like hiding that extra 500 folded up in the wallet from wife and kids. I stopped working on cars. Like sex it is just to demanding.
2qwik4u, when I bought my last car everything on the PPI was fine. I bought the car and the air conditioning compressor went out and it needed new shocks ( in my mind ) and I had major done on it because then I could start from zero. So $2400.00 later in repairs.. Keep a little out on the side.....like hiding that extra 500 folded up in the wallet from wife and kids. I stopped working on cars. Like sex it is just to demanding.
Last edited by cal44; 07-14-2008 at 11:06 PM.
#17
Rennlist Member
#18
Instructor
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Jersey City, NJ
Posts: 224
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've got to second what others have said in this thread and the other that you have open regarding your potential purchase:
You really need to go into this with at least a couple thousand$ in reserve no matter how good the ppi comes in. The car is 20 years old and if you're contemplating blowing your entire budget on the initial purchase, you could be in trouble if something turns up post purchase which could seriously ruin the experience for you. Plan on spending a couple grand on top of the purchase price, and if it doesn't need it, you've got a couple grand saved for upgrades.
You really need to go into this with at least a couple thousand$ in reserve no matter how good the ppi comes in. The car is 20 years old and if you're contemplating blowing your entire budget on the initial purchase, you could be in trouble if something turns up post purchase which could seriously ruin the experience for you. Plan on spending a couple grand on top of the purchase price, and if it doesn't need it, you've got a couple grand saved for upgrades.
#19
just my peronal opinion...
I think it fair to agree on the price, under certain conditions, before PPI. Everyone should know that a PPI take times and efford from both parties. What if buyer change mind after the ppi even it turn out to be a good condition car? Isn't it fair to say that if PPi turns out good, you should buy it.
On stuff such as tires, brakes, valve adj. etc, I think it's considered maintenance. I don't think it's a good reason to negotiate the price, and definitely not a reason if you change your mind on the purchase, but it's not hurt to ask.
I think it fair to agree on the price, under certain conditions, before PPI. Everyone should know that a PPI take times and efford from both parties. What if buyer change mind after the ppi even it turn out to be a good condition car? Isn't it fair to say that if PPi turns out good, you should buy it.
On stuff such as tires, brakes, valve adj. etc, I think it's considered maintenance. I don't think it's a good reason to negotiate the price, and definitely not a reason if you change your mind on the purchase, but it's not hurt to ask.
#20
uninformed gas bag
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
Rennlist Member
(contemplating on whether gas bag is one or two words)
Rennlist Member
Lets say PPI is decent, needs some maintance stuff, tires, brakes, valve adj. etc, Before you know it your at $1500. What would be the next best step? Should owner pay to have everything fixed or adjust the price of car $1500. Keep in mind we have an agreed price contingent on a successfull PPI.
#21
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
This is exactly what just happened! I just got PPI results back...needs bought $2000 worth in repairs. A/C, broken axl,brakes all around, oil leaks(not visual yet!)and needs full tune-up. Yes, most of this stuff is maintance however it was represented as "excellent, needs nothing" So I said drop price 2k, she said "let me think about it". So Im waiting...
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
#22
Burning Brakes
This is exactly what just happened! I just got PPI results back...needs bought $2000 worth in repairs. A/C, broken axl,brakes all around, oil leaks(not visual yet!)and needs full tune-up. Yes, most of this stuff is maintance however it was represented as "excellent, needs nothing" So I said drop price 2k, she said "let me think about it". So Im waiting...
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
My $.02.
Scott
#23
Rennlist Member
What you're describing is exactly the reason I like to negotiate price after the PPI. By agreeing on a price (subject to the PPI) before the PPI, the seller now has an expectation that he'll get X dollars for the car because he thinks it needs no work. Once the PPI shows problems, the seller's expectations aren't being met, and he may be reluctant to drop his price to cover all of the PPI's problems. I think it makes more sense from a negotiating strategy perspective to get the PPI first, and then try to negotiate downward from the asking price. If the seller has already dropped his price before the PPI, he'll be less likely to drop it more (or in the amount of the entire PPI estimate) after the PPI.
My $.02.
Scott
My $.02.
Scott
But this is really a question for an professional negotiator, and since I've read the book "You Can Negotiate Anything" (Cohen), the best situation is still unclear. In negotiations, 3 things are key:
1.) Power
2.) Time
3.) Information
After the PPI, you have spent more Time and have more Information, and so has the seller. So in some ways, you are still even in Power. But you have also spent some money on the PPI, so you are in a slight disadvantage. Then again, you might speak more thoroughly with the mechanic doing the PPI than the seller would, and thus put you in a better position of Information. And some buyers refuse to share the PPI details with the seller, giving them a greater edge.
In the end, a PPI is really about saving your hide on big repairs. So a couple hundred here and there in the form of maintenance findings might not make a big difference.
#24
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Agreed. All used cars are going to cost money at some point. I just want to make sure (to the best possible ability) I'm confident it's not going to blow up on me anytime soon. Thanks to people like you and boards like this one, I usually am comfortable looking at a car and getting a pretty good feel for the overall condition (even specific condition) and negotiate a price based on that, with the only caveat being it has to pass a PPI. I think that's perfectly fair.
#25
Instructor
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Maple Glen, PA
Posts: 141
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2qwik...
I was just in the middle of a purchase negotiation when you wrote this a few days ago (I panicked a bit there reading the advice), but it's working out. (more later)
In my rookie opinion, the seller should've been prepared to immediately come with a new price, if not to account for all of the repair estimate, at least a sizable chunk - something/anything, or said nfw. Based on what I was told or think I learned from folks from here, I think you did everything right. But unfortunately, be prepared to walk from this one (because of the seller, not necessarily the car - I know it ain't easy, but you do learn something from it if you have to).
+1 on the re$erves - I will add that that you shouldn't think of them as upgrade monies either (for a while anyway) - (credit rennlist for this tip too)
You have a PM.
Dan
I was just in the middle of a purchase negotiation when you wrote this a few days ago (I panicked a bit there reading the advice), but it's working out. (more later)
In my rookie opinion, the seller should've been prepared to immediately come with a new price, if not to account for all of the repair estimate, at least a sizable chunk - something/anything, or said nfw. Based on what I was told or think I learned from folks from here, I think you did everything right. But unfortunately, be prepared to walk from this one (because of the seller, not necessarily the car - I know it ain't easy, but you do learn something from it if you have to).
+1 on the re$erves - I will add that that you shouldn't think of them as upgrade monies either (for a while anyway) - (credit rennlist for this tip too)
You have a PM.
Dan
#26
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
ok guys we made a deal! We met in the middle, i bought car for 20k even(21k-2k in repairs)=19k+1k=20k, I hope that made sense. before I said ok to 20k I went to view it 1 more time, and spoke to PPI mechanic, he said only half those repairs/maintance need immediate attention! So i'll have hime do repairs and i'll do maintance.
To sum it all up I dont think there is a right way of negotiating, but I think you have the most leverage if you agree on a price contingent upon successfull PPI. If you dont talk price before PPI, and PPI comes out perfect then your paying full asking price.
Over all Im happy, 88 black/black coupe 68k miles full maintance history interior is a 10, exterior is a 9. Drivers side qtr panel repainted(excellent job).
leo
To sum it all up I dont think there is a right way of negotiating, but I think you have the most leverage if you agree on a price contingent upon successfull PPI. If you dont talk price before PPI, and PPI comes out perfect then your paying full asking price.
Over all Im happy, 88 black/black coupe 68k miles full maintance history interior is a 10, exterior is a 9. Drivers side qtr panel repainted(excellent job).
leo
#27
Drifting
Leo- congratulations! Please be sure to post pics of the car... I recently began to "wrench" my P-cars myself, and that has proven far more enjoyable than originally anticipated...
-Blake