Lets talk brakes
#17
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What? A thread about brakes for a 911 that doesn't involve "upgrading because I want better"? What's this board coming too? I'm sure if you keep surfing this board and read all the "normal" threads we get about brake upgrades, you will certainly come to realize, given how many people seem to think the stock brakes need upgrading, that clearly the factory has put sub par brakes on your car, perhaps not even worthy of a Yugo. Then you can come back and ask the right questions on how to do it right. Personally, I just drag my foot whenever I find my woefully inadequate brakes not stopping me fast enough.
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Alright,
So I finally changed the pads. One thing concerns me. Of the rear pads was considerably more worn than the others. It was also very very difficult to compress that piston back in. Does this mean rebuild time?
Also, I tried to 'bed' them but there is still more pedal travel than before. Will this go away shortly?
-matt
So I finally changed the pads. One thing concerns me. Of the rear pads was considerably more worn than the others. It was also very very difficult to compress that piston back in. Does this mean rebuild time?
Also, I tried to 'bed' them but there is still more pedal travel than before. Will this go away shortly?
-matt
#19
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Alright,
So I finally changed the pads. One thing concerns me. Of the rear pads was considerably more worn than the others. It was also very very difficult to compress that piston back in. Does this mean rebuild time?
Also, I tried to 'bed' them but there is still more pedal travel than before. Will this go away shortly?
-matt
So I finally changed the pads. One thing concerns me. Of the rear pads was considerably more worn than the others. It was also very very difficult to compress that piston back in. Does this mean rebuild time?
Also, I tried to 'bed' them but there is still more pedal travel than before. Will this go away shortly?
-matt
Maybe you have some air in the line? Could it be the "squishy" feel from air is making you have a little more travel?
If you have a caliper leaking, that could do it. As could a bad master cylinder.
I just did the brakes on my car. I switched to new teflon/steel braided flexible lines, had to replace two of the hard lines that I broke in the process, and I bought a power flush from Pelican and flushed the whole system and replaced the fluid with ATE Blue Racing.
The pedals is much firmer now. Travel is also less (I attribute that to eliminating the rubber expansion of the old flexi lines). The pedal feel is greatly improved. Braking power went up a little but not as much as I'd like. I guess I either have to find better pads or go to bigger calipers.
#20
RL Technical Advisor
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Mintex pads are really excellent street pads,.....
IMHO, they are FAR better than Textar, Jurid or Pagid (street) pads.
Excellent grip, no dust, rotor friendly, and inexpensive. What could be better???
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Excellent grip, no dust, rotor friendly, and inexpensive. What could be better???
#21
Addict
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Matt, one pad set more worn than the other could be a sign to rebuild. If the caliper is slow the retract and the pads are left to rub on the rotor as you drive off it can cause this to happen. Or should I say this happened on my chevy a couple times till I figured it out and replaced the slaves and calipers.
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
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Doug,
That's what I figured. Rebulid kits are cheap, I just don't have the resources/place to do it now. Soon..... I hope your 911 is still putting a smile on your face these days.
-matt
Steve,
Thanks for the recommendation on mintex pads. I put them on a few hours before you posted but it still helps to know the experts believe in them. I may have to be calling you soon in regards to suspension replacement components and pricing.
-matt
That's what I figured. Rebulid kits are cheap, I just don't have the resources/place to do it now. Soon..... I hope your 911 is still putting a smile on your face these days.
-matt
Steve,
Thanks for the recommendation on mintex pads. I put them on a few hours before you posted but it still helps to know the experts believe in them. I may have to be calling you soon in regards to suspension replacement components and pricing.
-matt
#24
RL Technical Advisor
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Alright,
So I finally changed the pads. One thing concerns me. Of the rear pads was considerably more worn than the others. It was also very very difficult to compress that piston back in. Does this mean rebuild time?
Also, I tried to 'bed' them but there is still more pedal travel than before. Will this go away shortly?
-matt
So I finally changed the pads. One thing concerns me. Of the rear pads was considerably more worn than the others. It was also very very difficult to compress that piston back in. Does this mean rebuild time?
Also, I tried to 'bed' them but there is still more pedal travel than before. Will this go away shortly?
-matt
Thats a symptom of either a brake line problem or sticking caliper pistons.
If those rubber lines have over 60K on them or over 10 years old, they are overdue for replacement. New OEM rubber lines are not expensive and aleviate problems with fluid returning to the MC when the pedal is released.
If the pedal travel is excessive and its not firm, I'd re-bleed the system. Never use the "pump & hold " method as thats sure death for the MC. Pressure bleeding only using a Motive bleeder (not expensive).
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Let me know if I can help,
#26
RL Technical Advisor
#28
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Hey Steve,
Lets just forget that question i see Bendix, mintex are the same group. ( after some little more research )
I see I was a little confused.
I see they are located in Australia........lucky for me then.
Later
Lets just forget that question i see Bendix, mintex are the same group. ( after some little more research )
![Confused](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
I see they are located in Australia........lucky for me then.
Later
![jumper](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/jumper.gif)
#29
Drifting
Thread Starter
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I checked the rubber lines, they look quite new. I had problems retracting one of the pistons and that was the pad that was worn a lot more than the others so I have a feeling this is the root of the problem. Will a simple reseal do or do I need a new piston. Also, if I need a new piston can I just replace one or do they all need to be replaced? What causes a piston to stick normally anyways?
-matt
#30
Rennlist Member
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Matt: Usually the pistons in your model caliper are fine, and the caliper needs nothing more than a reseal. Before you take it apart make sure that you have a seal kit and special caliper assembly paste for the o-rings/pistons.
Also, because I just caught up to this thread, and read it fast enough that I probably missed something, another cause of your less than inspiring pedal feel can be if you have a wear "lip" on one or more pairs of rotors. If a lip exists two things will happen; (1) The pads will eventually wear until they have full contact (like your old ones), or (2) You can pull the pads back out and use a file or bench grinder to bevel the pad edge where the lip is (usually along the two long sides of each pad). Either will return your pedal "feel" to normal, and resealing the caliper will help also (allow about 100-200 miles for break-in). Regarding your rubber brake hoses, they are dated so you can be absolutely sure that they're not the originals, but if they look fresh I'm sure that you're OK.
Also, because I just caught up to this thread, and read it fast enough that I probably missed something, another cause of your less than inspiring pedal feel can be if you have a wear "lip" on one or more pairs of rotors. If a lip exists two things will happen; (1) The pads will eventually wear until they have full contact (like your old ones), or (2) You can pull the pads back out and use a file or bench grinder to bevel the pad edge where the lip is (usually along the two long sides of each pad). Either will return your pedal "feel" to normal, and resealing the caliper will help also (allow about 100-200 miles for break-in). Regarding your rubber brake hoses, they are dated so you can be absolutely sure that they're not the originals, but if they look fresh I'm sure that you're OK.