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Guys, thanks for your help the last few days.
I got my hazard lights working (AWESOME) and now with the brake light switch:
I just bought ONE and I am going to put it in tonight. A question after looking at this and pelican, Do I have two brake light switches? Looking at the master cyclinder online, it looks like I have two? If I have only one which will affect the brake lights, which one do I replace?
It is redundant (I can't spell) and yes you do have two.
For some reason I only did one at a time and I didn't get good results until I had the back one in. You have to remove alot of stuff, but it is worth it. I'd hold off till you have two, or do the rear or back one first. It could be a preshure thing, or I could be high.
I went to local store and bought one for $7.99 plus tax. After reviewing the forums, I was like, "Man, I think I need two" so I'm going back to buy the other one after work.
I don't recall what you drive but you want the two prong narrow ones. if you found them locally you did good. It is very frustrating to go 100 miles to the "sponsor" store and get the wrong item.
Exactly. I still haven't found anyplace that has the narrow two-prongers. I just replaced mine about a week ago.
Yes, two switches. Yes, bleed the brakes after, and make sure you don't get the brake fluid on anything painted. Take your time. I had to remove a bunch of stuff to get to the back one (well, to even SEE the back one), but it's not difficult, just time consuming.
I had same issue but have found the switches may be failing because of current load. I put the new ones in along with a relay to reduce the current through the new switches. I posted the details in the thread above.
Exactly. I still haven't found anyplace that has the narrow two-prongers. I just replaced mine about a week ago.
Yes, two switches. Yes, bleed the brakes after, and make sure you don't get the brake fluid on anything painted. Take your time. I had to remove a bunch of stuff to get to the back one (well, to even SEE the back one), but it's not difficult, just time consuming.
This is time consuming. By the way, it is a 1987 911 coupe. I have unscrewed the bolts for the main cyclinder but I can't seem to move it. I need to figure out what else to unscrew. Any ideas?
On my 84... remove the carpet. Remove the rear stop-panel covering the goodies on the firewall. Remove the cruise control box & bracket. Remove one piece of hose that ran from center of car to driver's side of car. That gave me access to the 2 switches from memory. Unplug the connectors, (I used wide-prong switches so I had to disassemble the white plastic connectors), then I used a large wrench as my large dia sockets didn't clear the prongs. Kept all but a drop of fluid in by having the replacement switch ready & using a finger to plug the hole in the master cylinder, thread the new one in. Repeat for the other one. Bleed the brakes, reconnect the wires, reassmble the pieces removed for access. If installing a relay kit, do that before reassembling.
Have towels ready to catch any fluid drips, toss & go.
In my case, I left the master cylinder in the car, didn't need to remove too much for access.
Also, do not overtighten the switches when you install them.
Easy job, just takes awhile.
..
Originally Posted by Rice
Man,
This is time consuming. By the way, it is a 1987 911 coupe. I have unscrewed the bolts for the main cyclinder but I can't seem to move it. I need to figure out what else to unscrew. Any ideas?
You need 2 switches for yuor car, the 2 prongs switch. Read this thread before yuo swap in your new switches or youmight ruin them before you decide to get the Arc Suppressor kit.
Not sure how long have to read these board but burning hydrolic switch is a comment problem to our car. To most people, after 2 months, the switch start to slow down.
Good luck.
Originally Posted by Rice
Man,
This is time consuming. By the way, it is a 1987 911 coupe. I have unscrewed the bolts for the main cyclinder but I can't seem to move it. I need to figure out what else to unscrew. Any ideas?
On my 84... remove the carpet. Remove the rear stop-panel covering the goodies on the firewall. Remove the cruise control box & bracket. Remove one piece of hose that ran from center of car to driver's side of car. That gave me access to the 2 switches from memory. Unplug the connectors, (I used wide-prong switches so I had to disassemble the white plastic connectors), then I used a large wrench as my large dia sockets didn't clear the prongs. Kept all but a drop of fluid in by having the replacement switch ready & using a finger to plug the hole in the master cylinder, thread the new one in. Repeat for the other one. Bleed the brakes, reconnect the wires, reassmble the pieces removed for access. If installing a relay kit, do that before reassembling.
Have towels ready to catch any fluid drips, toss & go.
In my case, I left the master cylinder in the car, didn't need to remove too much for access.
I agree, this is how I did mine as well. Also be sure to place a towel right under the master cyl to catch any fluid that drips, some will drip and you don't want it on the paint in the trunk.
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