New Old 911 Owner Tutorial
05-28-2008, 12:59 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
New Old 911 Owner Tutorial
This is for all you New (Old) 911 Owners: (I originally posted on PP)
I recently did a thorough 100+ point check and tutorial from a highly recommended local wrench Callas Rennsport, Torrance, California. Tony Callas (owner) found over 70 issues with my baby and now I have many projects ahead of me but it's all love.
What I want to share is his "in driver seat" tutorial like a reputable dealer would have done when you first bought the P-car. Wow, I never knew she could do all that he did to her:
Cold Start:
1. Clutch In then Start, this will lighten the load on the Starter and Battery when cold.
Warm Up:
1. Aboslutely Do Not Sit and Warm Up, Just drive off!
2. Keep RPMs at or near 3K until the temperature needle hits 7:30 on the temperature guage (between bottom and 2nd mark)
3. Full Operating Temperature is or near 8:00 (2nd mark from bottom), needle hitting above 9:30 or 3rd mark is a major problem.
Carbon Build Up Blow Out, once in awhile for better performance:
1. At Full Operating Temperture (8:00)
2. At stop in 1st, punch the gas and bring your baby up to 6.5 RPMs to Redline (per WI wide body 7.1 RPM's) for 5-7 seconds.
Note: This scared the poop out of me You will notice in the rear view a puff of grey smoke. That is most of the carbon deposits being blown out due to all the low RPMs and lugging. She will run much better. It did on mine.
In fact, he kept her at 6.5 RPMs for about a half a block and advised it would not hurt the 911. In fact the 911 likes high RPMs.
Oil = Heart:
1. Our 911 Oil system is liken to the human heart/blood system, only uses what it needs.
2. As RPM's go up, more oil is needed which will cause the oil level indicator to go down and Druck to go up. So do not worry if oil level drops while accelerating, this is normal.
3. Manually Check Oil Level only on level surface and at Proper Operating Temperature (8:00 o'clock on the temperture guage).
4. Oil "Idiot" Light, even though some may disconnect or not fix it, he recommends it's proper operation only for guidance to safeguard the engine.
Shifting:
1. Never, ever pop out of gear this will damage the gears. Always insure the Clutch is engaged prior to shifting.
2. Shift smoothly and do not force shift into gears, he stated even professional racers do not shift any faster.
3. Ignore the "Shift Up" Arrow, Just shift between 3-5K RPMs
BTW, he is an ex-Professional Rennsport Racer, I think he may know what he is talking about.
E-Brake:
1. Adjust to 5 clicks
Ashtray:
1. Get a Coin Purse and Stick it in the Glove Box where it belongs. Hey I don't smoke OK
Fuel:
1. Only Premium Brand 91+ Octane or Higher if you can find it (there is 100 Octane at the Track F.Y.I.)
Tires:
1. There are actual dates on our tires showing how old they trully are, 4-5 digit Code. Next tire purchase ask to see the manufactured date, every tire must have it.
Intermitent Wiper Dial:
I never knew I had that, I use it all the time now so simple so convinent to regulate wiper so they won't stutter.
Per our RWebb on PP:
Originally Posted by RWebb
A "few" things to do when you buy an old Porsche...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...54#post2955054
Please forgive if this has been posted before, could not find in search tool.
Note: your year 911 may differ so this only a suggestion, check with your wrench for guidance.
Enjoy your New Old Porsche
I recently did a thorough 100+ point check and tutorial from a highly recommended local wrench Callas Rennsport, Torrance, California. Tony Callas (owner) found over 70 issues with my baby and now I have many projects ahead of me but it's all love.
What I want to share is his "in driver seat" tutorial like a reputable dealer would have done when you first bought the P-car. Wow, I never knew she could do all that he did to her:
Cold Start:
1. Clutch In then Start, this will lighten the load on the Starter and Battery when cold.
Warm Up:
1. Aboslutely Do Not Sit and Warm Up, Just drive off!
2. Keep RPMs at or near 3K until the temperature needle hits 7:30 on the temperature guage (between bottom and 2nd mark)
3. Full Operating Temperature is or near 8:00 (2nd mark from bottom), needle hitting above 9:30 or 3rd mark is a major problem.
Carbon Build Up Blow Out, once in awhile for better performance:
1. At Full Operating Temperture (8:00)
2. At stop in 1st, punch the gas and bring your baby up to 6.5 RPMs to Redline (per WI wide body 7.1 RPM's) for 5-7 seconds.
Note: This scared the poop out of me You will notice in the rear view a puff of grey smoke. That is most of the carbon deposits being blown out due to all the low RPMs and lugging. She will run much better. It did on mine.
In fact, he kept her at 6.5 RPMs for about a half a block and advised it would not hurt the 911. In fact the 911 likes high RPMs.
Oil = Heart:
1. Our 911 Oil system is liken to the human heart/blood system, only uses what it needs.
2. As RPM's go up, more oil is needed which will cause the oil level indicator to go down and Druck to go up. So do not worry if oil level drops while accelerating, this is normal.
3. Manually Check Oil Level only on level surface and at Proper Operating Temperature (8:00 o'clock on the temperture guage).
4. Oil "Idiot" Light, even though some may disconnect or not fix it, he recommends it's proper operation only for guidance to safeguard the engine.
Shifting:
1. Never, ever pop out of gear this will damage the gears. Always insure the Clutch is engaged prior to shifting.
2. Shift smoothly and do not force shift into gears, he stated even professional racers do not shift any faster.
3. Ignore the "Shift Up" Arrow, Just shift between 3-5K RPMs
BTW, he is an ex-Professional Rennsport Racer, I think he may know what he is talking about.
E-Brake:
1. Adjust to 5 clicks
Ashtray:
1. Get a Coin Purse and Stick it in the Glove Box where it belongs. Hey I don't smoke OK
Fuel:
1. Only Premium Brand 91+ Octane or Higher if you can find it (there is 100 Octane at the Track F.Y.I.)
Tires:
1. There are actual dates on our tires showing how old they trully are, 4-5 digit Code. Next tire purchase ask to see the manufactured date, every tire must have it.
Intermitent Wiper Dial:
I never knew I had that, I use it all the time now so simple so convinent to regulate wiper so they won't stutter.
Per our RWebb on PP:
Originally Posted by RWebb
A "few" things to do when you buy an old Porsche...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...54#post2955054
Please forgive if this has been posted before, could not find in search tool.
Note: your year 911 may differ so this only a suggestion, check with your wrench for guidance.
Enjoy your New Old Porsche
05-28-2008, 08:30 AM
#2
Drifting
Carbon Build Up Blow Out, once in awhile for better performance:
1. At Full Operating Temperture (8:00)
2. At stop in 1st, punch the gas and bring your baby up to 6.5 RPMs to Redline (per WI wide body 7.1 RPM's) for 5-7 seconds.
Note: This scared the poop out of me You will notice in the rear view a puff of grey smoke. That is most of the carbon deposits being blown out due to all the low RPMs and lugging. She will run much better. It did on mine.
In fact, he kept her at 6.5 RPMs for about a half a block and advised it would not hurt the 911. In fact the 911 likes high RPMs.
1. At Full Operating Temperture (8:00)
2. At stop in 1st, punch the gas and bring your baby up to 6.5 RPMs to Redline (per WI wide body 7.1 RPM's) for 5-7 seconds.
Note: This scared the poop out of me You will notice in the rear view a puff of grey smoke. That is most of the carbon deposits being blown out due to all the low RPMs and lugging. She will run much better. It did on mine.
In fact, he kept her at 6.5 RPMs for about a half a block and advised it would not hurt the 911. In fact the 911 likes high RPMs.
John
05-28-2008, 12:26 PM
#3
Addict
When I first got my car and it required some extra warm up, I did this in front of the hotel we had just stayed at while my wife finished up at the ftont desk. some A-wipe dressed me down. Something about matching shirt, matching Porsche, rich kid. The funny part was that his VW cost him more than my 911. Close to twice and he was far more stuck on himself than I.
05-28-2008, 01:11 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
I've never subscribed to the 50-point, 100-point, or more, inspection, preferring to stick to a logical order instead. I've gone out on the road in customer cars so low on oil that the rod bearings were in jeopardy, cars on which the tires were so low on air that a particular handling issue would have been impossible to correctly diagnose, and cars that leaked so much oil that they caught on fire while I drove them. After events like those logic took over, and a set of pre-drive requirements were adhered to without exception. For those of you that are not aware of an early post of mine (link below) you might find it helpful - there is cross-over between a PPI and a "pre-service/what's wrong with it" inspection. A driver's tutorial can also be helpful, but don't ever accept one opinion, no matter what they claim their experience to be. My wife, probably ten years ago, was scheduled for instruction from Milt Minter at Willow Springs Raceway. After he was taken ill and retired to his trailer, an alternate instructor was assigned, and after her first session my wife said to me, "Pete, he's got my hands below 3:00 and 9:00 on the wheel, it feels all wrong." (This from the girl who would, a few years later, excel at The Porsche Driving Experience at Road Atlanta Raceway.) Well, of course she was right, and I got myself reassigned to her for the rest of the event. She even impressed Milt, who watched with me from the sideline later in the day, judging her brake points, turn in and apex selection.
Never accept a single opinion, and read that Owner's Manual in your glove box, which answers many of the above points. As your knowledge base grows you will gradually separate the wheat from the chaff and become one with your car.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ter+Zimmermann
Never accept a single opinion, and read that Owner's Manual in your glove box, which answers many of the above points. As your knowledge base grows you will gradually separate the wheat from the chaff and become one with your car.
https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ter+Zimmermann
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05-30-2008, 01:52 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
While I also think that warmup is not necessary I don't believe in driving off immediately either. I always
give the engine 30 seconds or so to get the oil moving and the pressure up before putting it under load.
The majority of engine wear takes place at start up and I'm pretty sure the air-cooled Porsche is no
exception.
give the engine 30 seconds or so to get the oil moving and the pressure up before putting it under load.
The majority of engine wear takes place at start up and I'm pretty sure the air-cooled Porsche is no
exception.
06-03-2008, 05:22 AM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Gentelmen & Ladies in SoCali, don't look any further, here is your Baby's Mechanic of Choice.
a Peter Zimmermann deciple too boot? Oh boy Wayne should have mentioned that and I would have been there sooner.He has saved my baby's but many times.
Thanks Tony ( & Peter Zimmermann for sharing your knowledge with such a Master Mechanic)
06-03-2008, 01:47 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
No problem at all, I really enjoy helping you guys out when my time permits. It's really interesting looking into the shop at this moment. We have a 911 Speedster, a 959, a 356C and of course many 911's and 993's. What a lineup to view.