84_Carrera

Was the Cruise Control Cable, at the spread-clip to metal bracket near the throttle body. One side of the clip broke off. This is NOT the same failure that the other guys have shown, but rather the black plastic clip that snaps into the metal bracket that broke.

At least, I THINK that's the failure, I've zip-tied it up for now.

Here's my question though - I went to just remove the end of the cable wire itself from the throttle arm, and uh, I don't see a way of doing that. Help? Do I have to get in there & remove the part of the throttle arm that the wire connects to? It's probably a duh, but I didn't want to spend any more time on a stupid issue, besides, my knee was killing me.

Also, question #2... there is a round, 3-pin connector with nothing plugged into it just underneath the idle air valve. What IS this? Anyone? Anyone? Bueller? Bueller?

Thanks guys.

On a side note, Automotion / Perf. Products just delivered my "backordered until the end of the month" burgundy Porsche floormats. Niiiiiiice, though plain compared to my old burgundy Lloyds that had the colored Porsche Crest on them. Shame to toss them out, but they're sun faded & frayed on the edges. The new ones are just the standard "Porsche" lettering. But clean! Nice! Ready for a car show!

theiceman

pays not have those fancy options,,

mthomas44

Subscribed. Identical problem, identical zip tie solution. No more sticky throttle. Wondering also if the black plastic clip holder is replaceable.

jester911

I know this isn't a popular solution for most but I simply clipped the cable on my car.

After the second time it stuck at 4k rpm and I was on the side of the highway I pulled out the side cutter pliers and did the dirty deed. Since the car has become more of a track car it doesn't really much matter at this point.

84_Carrera

Honestly, I'd consider removing the entire setup & save the extra 4 lbs. Seriously though, I would have simply removed the cable if I thought I could do it easily. Maybe I'm pulling a Gump here, but I just don't see a simple way of removing the cable without clipping it off at the TB, and for resale, I'd be interested in being able to tell someone, sure, bing bam boom & it's back in there.

The only time I can REALLY remember using the cruise was 3.5 years ago, when I bought the car & drove home from Michigan. Even then, I noticed it wouldn't hold speed, it's very slowly drop down 5-10mph over an hour IIRC.

jester911

It is much like the AC on these cars. It was more of an addon as opposed to integrated into the car. Oh and I did remove the rest since you mentioned it.

old man neri

hmmm, the cruise on my '88 works perfectly. Holds the exact speed, up hills, down hills, in turns..etc.

DRACO A5OG

Hey Fred,



That round harness is your Diagnosis Port. You may want to keep it. My 2 cents



To prevent a stuck throttle, Daved, owner of TRE Motorsport in Van Nuys took the time to install his fix for the potential issue. 3 Cable Ties and Voila a simple but effective preventive measure.

Crap my engine looks filthy sorry guys I am embarised

BTW, Get some Carpenter's Knee Pads at Home Depot for $9.50, It looks silly but no more pain in the knees, Priceless! My buddy laughed at me when he saw them on then we worked on our baby's engine and he was sore for three days, could hardly walk. He recently bought some and regrets waiting so long to do so.

old man neri

+1. I use knee pads as well, they are combat knee pads but work just as well. I find they hold up well to the abrasive asphalt and concrete.

DRACO A5OG

Actually used my Paintball Combat Knee Pads too but was too expensive for the concrete so I bought the Home Depot Special... Plastic Covered, it's great and I really abuse it. After 8 hours Knees feel great.

84_Carrera

Oh it's beyond knee pads (though I have a fold-out pad now as I get older).

Orthopedist suspects a torn meniscus in my left knee & I can barely bend slowly to 90 degrees. Twisting at all is pure torture. I popped it out of the socket twice on the 11th while putting the summer wheels & tires on the minivan. I'm not having fun these past 2 weeks, lemme tell you.

Thanks for the info on the diag port... gimme more info on this please? I didn't know about the port, I assumed the DME was a primitive unit. Guess I was wrong eh? What sort of scanner do you need & what info can be gleaned from the system cold & running? Any data / trouble codes stored? I assume this is pre- OBD-I?

dshepp806

I wonder about this, too. Anyone?

84_Carrera

According to the diagram on Pelican, the arm that bolts to the TB is part of the Cruise Cable. So, I'm going to say no, it's not likely to be a replacement item. And, at $184 for a cable on a system I don't use... zip ties or SNIP for me.

DRACO A5OG

Fred,

Thank you for sharing about your knees. Just a thought, wouldn't some support be better than none?

BTW, According to Haynes, the 3 pin harness is the TDC Sensor Test Connection not a Diagnosis Port that a wrench told me. I would say you definitely need it so I would keep it. The test tool is a dealer part and I can't seem to find it.

I would snip the cable on Cruise Control, just disconnect it and zip tie it out of the way. You may want to make it work one day. my 2 cents.

nyne11

That round harness is your Diagnosis Port. You may want to keep it. My 2 cents

Yep....and it should have a protective rubber plug as well.