NIGHTMARE
#1
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Track Day
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From: California
NIGHTMARE
Hello every one, I hope what I'm about to tell you does not happen to anybody.
About 4 months ago, I bought my first 911. A beautiful 911s, year 77 with only 90k original miles. Rust free, new leather interior, new stereo, new metallic BLACK paint. Car came with turbo whale tail, carrera fenders, front spoiler, new chrome 16" wheels and tires. Car ran perfectly, engine was in good shape, good compression on all cylinders.
The only problem I noticed was a little smoke coming into the cabin. Car was also leaking some oil, I figured this was the cause of the smoke, since oil was falling on top of the heat exchangers; therefore, I decided to take the engine out to fix this problem.
About a month and a half ago, I went ahead and removed the engine from this vehicle. A task that took me 2 hours of daily work for about a week and a half to complete. When the engine was finally out, I decided to put new turbo valve covers for both intake and exaust. I adjusted the valves, replaced a few rocker arms, installed new gaskets, and bingo, all done with the valves, then I replaced the flywheel seal, resurface the flywheel, installed new clutch disk, preasure plate, new bolts, and all done with the clutch. I also replaced the oil preasure switch, thermostat o-ring, breather plate gasket and hose, oil retrn tubes with new seals, Distrbtor O ring. Now the only thing left to do was to replace the No8 Seal, so I did. Until now, we are talking about a month of so of doing this work little by little. I also took car of painting and detailing the engine, all the injection system. Everything was ok until I put the crakshaft pulley back. The recommended torque setting for the pulley bolt is 125 lbs/feet car is equiped with A/C. So I set my Torque wrench for this setting and started torquing the damned bolt. Guess what, at about 75 lbs, the skin or surface of the front of the bolt came out and fused inside the middle of the n.8 bearing hole. Now according to a porsche mechanic, the only way to fix this is to split or remove the crankcase apart and replace the bearing. All this happened just about when I was done with the engine, and ready to put it back in the car. Now this is my advice for all of you who are considering doing this work.
ALWAYS USE NEW BOLTS FOR ANY HIGH TORQUE SETTING FOR ANY ENGINE PART, NEVER REUSE THE ONES YOU HAVE.
Now if anyone out there, could give me an advice on how to take care of this problem with out having to disarm the engine, I would greatly appreciated.
About 4 months ago, I bought my first 911. A beautiful 911s, year 77 with only 90k original miles. Rust free, new leather interior, new stereo, new metallic BLACK paint. Car came with turbo whale tail, carrera fenders, front spoiler, new chrome 16" wheels and tires. Car ran perfectly, engine was in good shape, good compression on all cylinders.
The only problem I noticed was a little smoke coming into the cabin. Car was also leaking some oil, I figured this was the cause of the smoke, since oil was falling on top of the heat exchangers; therefore, I decided to take the engine out to fix this problem.
About a month and a half ago, I went ahead and removed the engine from this vehicle. A task that took me 2 hours of daily work for about a week and a half to complete. When the engine was finally out, I decided to put new turbo valve covers for both intake and exaust. I adjusted the valves, replaced a few rocker arms, installed new gaskets, and bingo, all done with the valves, then I replaced the flywheel seal, resurface the flywheel, installed new clutch disk, preasure plate, new bolts, and all done with the clutch. I also replaced the oil preasure switch, thermostat o-ring, breather plate gasket and hose, oil retrn tubes with new seals, Distrbtor O ring. Now the only thing left to do was to replace the No8 Seal, so I did. Until now, we are talking about a month of so of doing this work little by little. I also took car of painting and detailing the engine, all the injection system. Everything was ok until I put the crakshaft pulley back. The recommended torque setting for the pulley bolt is 125 lbs/feet car is equiped with A/C. So I set my Torque wrench for this setting and started torquing the damned bolt. Guess what, at about 75 lbs, the skin or surface of the front of the bolt came out and fused inside the middle of the n.8 bearing hole. Now according to a porsche mechanic, the only way to fix this is to split or remove the crankcase apart and replace the bearing. All this happened just about when I was done with the engine, and ready to put it back in the car. Now this is my advice for all of you who are considering doing this work.
ALWAYS USE NEW BOLTS FOR ANY HIGH TORQUE SETTING FOR ANY ENGINE PART, NEVER REUSE THE ONES YOU HAVE.
Now if anyone out there, could give me an advice on how to take care of this problem with out having to disarm the engine, I would greatly appreciated.
#3
if i understand what happened correctly, it sounds like the bolt/stud broke off down in the hole. one option might be to find a machinist with a portable EDM machine (or bring the engine to a shop with a machine) and have them burn (electrostatically machine) the remaider of the bolt out of the hole. just a thought.
#4
Burning Brakes
If you're in the LA area there's a guy in Gardena who specializes in removing broken bolts. He uses some amazing high-tech equipment and is reputed to be a magician. Here's the information:
Tap-Ex
310-323-3834
1940 W. Rosecrans Ave.
Gardena, CA 90249
If you want to read about how the process works, go here: <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=4437e3a3510de61e3f670a15e25f4e7b&threadid=4825&highligh t=gardena" target="_blank">Broken Bolt</a>
Hang in there! Good luck.
Tap-Ex
310-323-3834
1940 W. Rosecrans Ave.
Gardena, CA 90249
If you want to read about how the process works, go here: <a href="http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=4437e3a3510de61e3f670a15e25f4e7b&threadid=4825&highligh t=gardena" target="_blank">Broken Bolt</a>
Hang in there! Good luck.
#5
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Track Day
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From: California
Thank you for your input. Actually, the bolt did not break. It's just the outside or skin of the bolt that came out (weird , first time I've seen this). I will buy a new bolt and try to make it fit. Regards
#6
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[quote]Originally posted by Diecast18:
<strong> I will buy a new bolt and try to make it fit. Regards</strong><hr></blockquote>
I am not sure what you mean by "outside or skin of the bolt", but combining the name "Porsche", and the phrase "make it fit" is rarely a good idea (for you, your mechanic will likely love it $$$).
Please elaborate, or post a pic.
Tom
<strong> I will buy a new bolt and try to make it fit. Regards</strong><hr></blockquote>
I am not sure what you mean by "outside or skin of the bolt", but combining the name "Porsche", and the phrase "make it fit" is rarely a good idea (for you, your mechanic will likely love it $$$).
Please elaborate, or post a pic.
Tom
#7
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Track Day
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From: California
hi, let me try to explain better. After torquing this bolt, at about 90 lbs of pressure, I noticed that the bolt was not taking any pressure anymore, so I remove the bolt from the bearing. I was able to extract the bolt completely, it did not break in two; I just noticed that part of the surface of the bolt came out and is now fused inside the bearing. I hope this explains it better.
When you look at the bolt. about half inch from the tip is completely worn and shiny.
When you look at the bolt. about half inch from the tip is completely worn and shiny.
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#9
Perhaps you can get a small dental pick and scrape out the remains of the bolt. I am sure a machinist can clean up the threads without taking apart the whole engine. Maybe an ez-out will get the last little bits out?
Good luck,
Neil
Good luck,
Neil
#10
Burning Brakes
Dental pick is a good idea. Easy-out really isn't desinged to clean up threads. I think (though I'm not sure) there are taps designed to clean up slightly damaged threads. I DEFINITELY would not simply run a new bolt into the hole. You'd be inviting disaster.