lfe132

Background: '84 Carrera 3.2 stock. Car was running fine and then all of a sudden stalled. It fires back up but stalling within 20 seconds.
I replaced the DME relay with a known good one.
I replaced the fuel pump (old one had 138k miles on it anyways)
I replaced the fuel pump check valve.
I replaced the fuel filter.
I checked all the fuses, they are clean and in good order.
Battery is in good condition.
Car starts, but stalls 15 to 20 seconds afterward.
Help please.

Amber Gramps

My fault

justinsrx7

Perhaps it is your ignition switch.

lfe132

justin,
swapped ign switch - not it. Still stalls.
Thanks though.

300cd300sdl911

Maybe try ICV (Idle Control Valve)? Last year my '85 3.2 would stall on decel or when stopping at a light. I did a half as_ cleaning job re-installed the valve and everything was good. This year symptom re-appeared only worse.....I'd start up and the car would stall within 10-20 seconds. Ordered and installed a new ICV and everything is now fine. I've been driving all day with no issues. The part was $144.

lfe132

300cd, my ICV is less than a year old, i doubt that's it. Never the less I will swap it with a known good one and verify.
Thanks for the input.

lfe132

Okay, I checked the ICV. The values are suppose to be 20 ohms from center terminal to each side terminal. On one side I am getting 20 ohms and on the other I'm getting 22 ohms. Is this too far out of tolerance to cause a problem?

Droops83

Most of those resistance tests that Bentley and others prescribe are pretty worthless---you are measuring the component unplugged and not operating. Most electrical components fail/have issues while operating and under load. I wouldn't have a problem w/ 22 ohms, that's close enough to spec to be in margin of meter error. You would only have a problem if the resistance test showed open or a super high reading on a component like that. Exceptions to this are variable, temperature-dependent sensors such as head temp sensor . . . .

Does the engine stall instantly like it is an ignition related fault or does it stumble and then die? I would check for vacuum leaks first. Get it to a shop to smoke test the intake. If there is a large enough vacuum leak, the engine could be running just rich enough on cold start to stay running, but once it warms up a bit and starts leaning out the mixture, it might be too lean to run. I would start here, and if there are no vacuum leaks, get back to us.