GothingNC

Iceman,

Let me know if this link helps

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...al+engine+drop


John

theiceman

Hey John .. that was great becuase it led me to this thread

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=219508

The guy does a partial and even leaves the oil lines intact. I might be tempted to try this one as I just replaced the oil. looks like he just undid the runners and lifted it all out. Then I can replace all the stuff Pete mentioned too .

Stevie 77 930

You'll need a couple of inches of drop to get to where you need to get to. Draining the oil will allow you to remove the "s" hose below. Remove all of your vent hoses on top and remove the fuel line from the filter. Remove the shift coupler to remove the stress on the shifting linkage. Make sure you have yourself a good jack and pad under the engine. Just get the the lift to unwieght the engine mounts and remove the bolts gradually to prevent any unwanted shift. SLOWLY lower the engine a inch or so at a time and check to make sure nothing is binding or going to break. Make sure your jack does not "leak down" over a period of time. If you are unsure about leaving for any extended period of time, jack the engine up and thighten the monting bolts before you walk away. Once you get into the job of removing the intake, be sure to do all of the other "while your in there" jobs like Pete mentioned. I have helped (done) a couple of these for a few buddies and it took us a weekend to get it done, working slowly and marking our steps. Setting up the intake runners can be the most frustrating part of the job. Because you can not get to some of the clamps while the intake is in the car, you need to make sure they are "squared up" and tight before you reinstall the intake system. My advise.... remove and replace one intake runner at a time. Another method is not to tighten the runner clamps too tight and fit the intake back on the car to square up the intake system. Carefully remove and then retighten all of the clamps. this may take you a few tries, but it needs to be perfect. Be sure to replace any vacumn hosing that you think needs to replaced as well. one at a time. Oh yeah, DON'T FORGET TO RECONFIGURE YOUR IGNITION WIRES.....
Good luck and most important have fun !!

Peter Zimmermann

ice:
1. "slotted screws" - Good! That means that you still have the early-style box without the internal diffuser for cold start gas distribution.

2. Partial drop.
(a) Remove oil (engine & tank).
(b) Disconnect oil lines (tank S-hose & large hose under cyl #4), and the heat exchanger ends of both under car (red) heater hoses. Pat your trans mount and tell her that she's lookin' good.
(c) Disconnect shift coupler at trans shift rod (remove allen head pin bolt and slide coupler off shaft) - this will help prevent damage to the shift fork seal.
(d) Disconnect fuel lines at filter, accumulator and return to tank line. Remove vacuum hose for power brake booster.
(e) Remove plug wires complete with distrib. cap, coil and coil bracket (yes, you have the wires clockwise instead of...).
(f) Remove heater blower and hoses.
(g) Have enough wood available to support the engine in its lowered position (you don't want to have your jack fail halfway through the process).
(h) Remove all accessible intake runner nuts/washers at the intake ports (count them and put them on the bench so you are sure none remain in the engine compartment).
(i) Remove charcoal cannister and breather hoses (normally these would only be disconnected at the engine, but you don't want them in the way when you go to lower your completely assembled fuel system w new airbox onto the top of the engine.
(j) Disconnect your injector hoses (leave the injectors where they are).
(k) Remove your electrical panel cover in the left rear corner and disconnect the 14-pin connector by pulling it off.
(l) Remove air filter cover and both rubber straps.
(m) Put jack under engine sump plate with a nice piece of wood between the jack plate and engine.
(n) Remove outboard rear engine mount bolts (65 lb/ft torque - 19mm wrench size).
(o) Lower engine slowly looking for anything still connected that I forgot to mention.
(p) Remove the rubber air dome that connects the sensor plate housing to the throttle body.
(q) Remove all vacuum hoses connected to the throttle body.
(r) Remove any intake runner nuts that might still be in place. Again, count them.
(s) Check carefully for any missing airbox assembly screws that might have been blown loose, find any that are unaccounted for and put them on your bench along with any plastic shards that you can find.
(t) Remove the bracket that attaches to the throttle lever plate (leave the other end attached to the airbox.
(u) Try to pull the whole mess up & out of the engine compartment. You will see two brackets attached to the bottom forward side of the airbox (one you already detached in step "t") using a part called a "stop." You will probably want to buy two new ones to assure that the new box sits properly.
(v) When you have the remains out immediately use a small flashlight to assure yourself that there is no debris in any of the ports. Remove any gaskets (the surfaces must be perfect), count your airbox screws again, and put a piece of clean, new paper towel in each intake port.

I've never done an airbox with the partial drop method, but in my mind this is the most sensible, orderly approach. Good luck and keep in touch!

imcarthur

Clive:

Let me know if you need any tools or help. I'll be away until early Friday AM but if you need assistance on Friday or the weekend, I'll be around.

Ian

MUSSBERGER

I'm not Catholic. Is there already a Saint Peter? If there is could we have Saint Pete patron saint of the air-cooled.

Your Aircooliness

theiceman

Thanks guys ... Stevie that is great insight about the runner alignment. I already have an idea how to atack it after reading your post , and if I hadn't I would have screwed myself , again . I will take the assembly out , place it on a big piece of cardboard and draw a template on it. When I put it back together if it fits the template I drew it should be pretty close.

Pete I will print out your post and head outside as soon as I am done work. I think with that I can start the healing process.

Thanks to all of you for your thoughts support and insight. I am filled with renewed confidence and the feeling of dread is slowly seeping away .

I already have off the heating system, so let the disconecting begin.

theiceman

PS .. Fred ... tell the guy in the cubicle next to you I will be posing for a couple of weeks in my garage ..

theiceman

Thanks Ian , with any luck I will have a CIS sitting in my basement by then waiting for an airbox

Peter Zimmermann

...Aircooliness?

Peter Zimmermann

ice: I read the comment about the oil lines, and don't agree. Why confine your work space more than necessary? To gain the needed room topside you'll stretch the daylights out of the stuff below, which is not good for those parts...

dshepp806

You got that right! Un-frikin-believable.

Best of luck to you...

Brian 162

If you are having trouble locating an airbox I may know a couple of places locally that can help.

theiceman

Hi Brian

I called nineapart and he doesn't have one , he said he may be able to get me a new one for about 500.00 he thinks. Randy at whaletail doesn't know he has one and told me he would charge me 400.00used.

All / Well I got the thing out in about 2 hours. Pete i didn't see your post unil I got in but I agree with you . I lowered it without stressing anything and stopped when it began to strain the oi line , so then I cranked it back up to take the strain off. It still alllowed me to get the CIS out . How it goes back in .? who knows but at least I got it out.

I will take some pics tomorrow .. doesn't look too bad actually and no oil leaks. I will replace the stuff anyway but I was surprised to see no leaks at all.

Peter Zimmermann

Do me a HUGE favor (and one for yourself) - do not buy a used airbox! Time & heat both take a toll on that part, and it's "used" for a reason. New only on that part, no one can predict when they'll blow! And change that switch and thermostat o-ring - neither will outlive your next engine removal...

Let me know tomorrow if you want me to shop an airbox for you.