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it's all over now ... bad to worse.

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Old 04-28-2008, 11:44 AM
  #16  
Amber Gramps
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You have to drop an engine to swap an airbox? That's what I call the BACKSIDE method.
Old 04-28-2008, 11:49 AM
  #17  
Peter Zimmermann
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ice: When I wrote the 8th edition the part # for your box was 911 110 906 00. You will also need:
6x connecting sleeves for the intake runners
6x intake runner gaskets
1x sensor housing gasket
1x throttle body o-ring
1x cold start injector o-ring
1x cold start spacer o-ring
A manual that discusses sensor plate height adjustment.

Just curious, is your airbox held together with slotted-head screws, or Phillips-head screws? I can't tell in your picture, are you using the correct braided, grounded plug wires?

Firing order: 1,6,2,4,3,5 counter clockwise...
Old 04-28-2008, 12:18 PM
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Brads911sc
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Thats Sucks Ice... Hope it works out ok for you... Worse case scenario is you get it towed to your wrench... so hang in there...
Old 04-28-2008, 12:41 PM
  #19  
GothingNC
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Iceman,

I've read on Pelican that a partial engine drop is doable for the 78-79 to replace the airbox.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...t=blown+airbox

John
Old 04-28-2008, 01:01 PM
  #20  
Peter Zimmermann
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ice: A partial drop can work, but for me it's not a good solution because I find it physically easier to work on an engine that's been removed entirely - and easier to make sure that the intake runners are secure, their clamps are tight, etc.

Also, don't forget to order:
1x oil pressure switch (red)
1x thermostat o-ring
2x throttle lever bushings (small)

Before you begin airbox removal be aware that it's really easy to drop pieces of plastic or loose screws down an intake - and that junk can bend a valve. Work slow and very clean!
Old 04-28-2008, 01:18 PM
  #21  
theiceman
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Great threads John thanks for the help. I have called around and of course no one has one. I may glue mine if I can, especially if I can not determing root cause. I would rather blow up an epoxied one rather than a new one. I am hoping i ca glue it for testing.

Pete you beat me to it . I was about to email you with the while you are in their list , thanks. I was half considering doing the hain box gaskets but seeing how things have gon elately , I am a bit gunshy of doing more than I need too.

Pete do you have any theories on what could have gone wrong ? even if I had not got the clearances right , could it have done this ?

I seam to think I screwed up the ignition leads but I just can't see how .

I am going down now to do the triage.
Old 04-28-2008, 01:34 PM
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theiceman
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er .. pete .. did you say counterclockwise ?
Old 04-28-2008, 01:56 PM
  #23  
theiceman
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Well I just identified root cause ,,, i screwed up the ignition timing , that would explain why I had to swap arounf leads when I was done. I just verified what Pete said and put a wrench on the fan belt and turned it over... sure snough the rotor goes counter clockwise ... SON of a BITCH !!!!!!!

and to think I checked it like 5 times. So i checks my Bentley

280-2 and I quote " the ignition rotor turns in a clockwise direction. " ....
- SPark plug wires must be installed so that the spark plugs fire in the correct order..

Those BASTARDS !!!!!
Old 04-28-2008, 02:09 PM
  #24  
theiceman
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okay here is the pic of how I am currently connected.

I think you guys are all gonna tell me it is wrong now. I have shown the hold down clips on the cap for reference.


Any input would be great

Pete the screws are slotted

Last edited by theiceman; 01-09-2013 at 10:14 AM.
Old 04-28-2008, 02:20 PM
  #25  
theiceman
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because I just do not have the space to put an egine I may have to try the partial . buT I will keep you guys informed.
Old 04-28-2008, 02:22 PM
  #26  
phiba
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Hey Ice, I feel your pain.

Which brings up the subject of the pop-off valve (again). I know the consensus on this board is that you shouldn't need one, and they cause more trouble than they solve. But knowing this, if you had one (properly installed, etc.), and maintained it (regular inspections, cleaning, lubing with silicon grease, etc.), wouldn't it be worth it in such cases?
Old 04-28-2008, 02:29 PM
  #27  
theiceman
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You know Phiba I am just not sure. That is a great question . I have actually had a pop off valve on my shelf for a coupls of years. Would having it installed have saved Me ? MAybe, maybe not, I personally feel that what I went through was so freaking loud in my garage it sounded laike a gun went off. would that rapidly expanding gas all been exhausted through a mechanical vale? who knows. All I can say is , the pop of valve is staying omn my shelf... Guess I am just a sucker for punishment and deserve what I get I guess...
Old 04-28-2008, 02:31 PM
  #28  
Brads911sc
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I personally think the pop off valve works when you have those small backfires that you get at cold idle typical of CIS cars. Not sure they are made for reversed ignition wires. I have one on mine. I hope I never need to find out if its worth it...
Old 04-28-2008, 02:38 PM
  #29  
Stevie 77 930
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what can we say....your rotor rotates counterclockwise and your wires a set for clockwise rotation.
I found this online.... I am going to assume your manual does not have this correction

http://www.bentleypublishers.com/tec...004.may.11.htm
Old 04-28-2008, 02:56 PM
  #30  
theiceman
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Thank you very much Steve .. you have actually given me good news .... now I can go fix it knowing I have identified a root cause ...

Just the crying to do now ..

Well I better get to draining all that oil I put in to drop the engine . anyone has any hints about partial drops I am all ears......


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