trans seal
#2
Are you leaking at the front end or at the engine end. I have a shift fork,front end leak. I think either was is to pull the tranny and engine. Pulling the eng/trans is not a bad job. First time may be 6 hours out and 6 hours in. Add a couple of days if you reseal the engine leaks. Add a clutch disc. Check the oil thermo for proper function and the sender by it for leaks. If you pull it you can take the eng/tranny to a mechanic for seals etc if you do ot want to do it yourself. I would guess that time would be 12 to 15 hours for everything times the shop rate. Add parts. Maybe Steve or Peter will add some expert wisdon to my guess work.
#3
Rennlist Member
I assume that you mean the seal inside the bell housing. If yes, plan on about 5 hours labor + the seal. The bad part is if the clutch has been contaminated by leaking trans oil your costs will rise quickly. If it's the shift rod seal, that Jake mentioned, in the nose of the trans that's leaking, you can do that in the car. It takes lot's of patience, care, and a bit of seal replacement experience sure wouldn't hurt. It's very easy to damage parts doing seal replacement, choose your removal/install tools carefully!
#5
It could very well be the case that someone else might do this job, for a couple reasons. Pete's info was helful, I was also looking for other concerns that a faulty seal might effect. I've owned front engine/water cooled porsches that I used to track, but I sold the last one a couple years ago and currently track an E46 M3. Always admired the 911s, and tripped onto a neighbor who's selling a 78 911 which I'm told has the aformentioned leak and is in need of heat exchangers as the biggest mechanical problems. It also has a couple workable rust spots in common areas, and is in need of some interior work. It's passed a recent inspection, and I'm told drives well. My son looked at it yesterday, and I might look at it today. He want about 7.5k for it. I don't know the miles.
#6
Sounds like it could be a nice project for that price depending on issues. if you have time and cash. good luck with it. I just started a complete AC replacement on my 83 911 Targa. Seems like i never stop starting new projects...
#7
Rennlist Member
Dave: By the time the '78 was built rust spots almost became a thing of the past, and I don't consider any rust as "workable." The exception would be, of course, that you know exactly what you're getting into, along with how much of the car that you can't readily see, is damaged to a greater extent. The '78 can have other problems, and the presence of body rust increases the chance of the engine having broken cylinder head studs. I don't know what the "recent inspection" entailed, but be very, very careful with this car, and don't buy it without a valve covers off PPI by a Porsche expert - you wouldn't believe how quickly that bargain price can be pushing $17 - 20K, and you don't want that much tied up in a car with rust!