ok, so I need to take some sample and send it somewhere for test, I assume. Do you remember proximately the realative beetwen 50% TBN and number of miles, of course on your car?
Thanks.

 

I just received my Brad Penn 20w50 today. The local distributor dropped it off at my house for no charge!

Mark

 

Wholly s _ _ t! You change Mobil 1 every 15,000 miles!?!! I change it in my 930 every 5,000. No wonder you're concerned about zddp. I drive my 930 almost 30 miles per day, at least 5 days a week. I wouldn't possibly think of letting the same oil be in there all year. Acids, condensation, and heat will wear out any oil before that. you don't autocross or DE it at all do you?

I don't think the extra additive in Penn will show any noticeable decrease in the engine's wear over Mobil 1 unless you are racing. Changing it and the filter more often will though.

 

No, I think he was changing once per year between 5-7k miles. The 15k reference might be due to the other 911 recommendations when using Mobil 1.

A side note: as crazy as 15,000 mile oil changes might seem on these newer cars, it isin the manual.

 

Murphyslaw1978,

I apologize if I misread or didn't understand the interval. I believe on newer P-car engines with much superior metallurgy, anti-friction and wear treatments, better lubricants, water cooling, and precision machining you can get away with a longer interval (maybe not 15k, but I might go with 10). Vintage machines like ours have very little of those technology advantages.

Its actually not the oil itself that goes bad. Its the additive packages. In WWII, farmers use to take the old oil from their equipment and pour it into a barrel mounted in the barn's rafters. They then took a length of hemp rope, dropped one end into that barrel and let it drop into a barrel on the floor below. The oil would flow from the dirty barrel through the rope and be filtered clean before it reached the bottom one. The farmers would then reuse this "clean" oil in their equipment, saving on a scarce strategic commodity for the war effort. Back then, there was very little in the way of additives added to the oil so there wasn't a lot of concern about it like today.

I still believe changing the filter and the oil on a religious 5k mile schedule will show negligible differences in engine wear independent of the brand you use. Just my $.02 but you ought to do what makes you feel comfortable.

 

No need to apologize . I agree that these older engines has much different requirements than the newer engines

 

I just changed the Mobil1 15w50 out and Brad Penn 20w50 in. I now have significant startup smoke and driving smoke as well. Never had this before. I will check for overfill tomorrow but I think I am okay level-wise as I used 9 quarts in the oil change.
Has anyone else seen smoke in moving to Brad Penn? I think I will drive it a bit to see if the 3.2 adjusts to the new lube. Kind of a bummer....

 

Hi Chris,

While I'm not a betting individual, I'd put my money on an overfill,....

 

Uh, thanks Steve. I'll check this PM and feel like an idiot if you are right. I've been doing this too long for that simple mistake.

 

Hi Chris,

Its not as uncommon as you might think. Cooler weather may not permit the remote thermostat to open and that leads to erroneous dipstick readings.

The durn things must REALLY be warmed to 185 deg F or better to ensure that its open so that the dipstick is accurate.

 

I think the best way to get the car to do this in colder weather is to let the engine idle for an extended period of time. I would first start the car and drive it to get it up to 176F temp, but then let it sit in the driveway at idle. Eventually, even when it's cold out, the temp should start to climb and climb and climb. It may take 45 minutes, but it should get there.

 

No idling for extended period of time = get in an drive it - between 3-4000 rpms will warm it up quickly - THEN measure.

 

Our procedure during the winter months was to do the standard 3-mile test drive, pull the car into the service entry door, and put a blanket over the closed engine lid's grille. The tech responsible for the car was required to stay with it while warm-up reached the point when the front cooler opened, which usually happened very quickly, often in less than five minutes. If you follow this procedure do not leave the car because it can overheat!

 

Now THERE are some true "pearls of wisdom"

 

But my car never got above the 176F, when it was cold out, even if I drove it very spiritedly.