Swapping regular brakes for power assisted
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Swapping regular brakes for power assisted
Although I am a relative newbie in terms of 911 ownership, I am still having some issues with brake feel. I am sure I will get used to it, but right now, the pedal feel is like pushing on concrete. Very little play, and, quite franlky, very little feedback. I sometimes feel they won't stop the car.
Has anyone replaced manual for power assisted brakes?
Has anyone replaced manual for power assisted brakes?
#2
It may be the pads that are currently installed. I found the feel of the brakes on my '87 were also somewhat wooden so I did a pad change to a softer material and it improved the feel greatly. It's not very expensive to try and may solve your issues without a major project.
#3
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
It may be the pads that are currently installed. I found the feel of the brakes on my '87 were also somewhat wooden so I did a pad change to a softer material and it improved the feel greatly. It's not very expensive to try and may solve your issues without a major project.
#4
Rennlist Member
Looking at your signature line I don't know if your car is a '78 or an '86. In any case, with either year your car already has power brakes...
Lack of "feel" is often caused by one or more calipers that need to be resealed, sometimes old hoses can also be the culprit.
Lack of "feel" is often caused by one or more calipers that need to be resealed, sometimes old hoses can also be the culprit.
#5
Race Car
You can add the boost unit to earlier cars -- I did it with my 72. It's not a very simple thing to do, though -- there's welding involved.
As Pete mentions, your 78/86 already has the booster. Is it working?
As Pete mentions, your 78/86 already has the booster. Is it working?
#6
Looking at your signature line I don't know if your car is a '78 or an '86. In any case, with either year your car already has power brakes...
Lack of "feel" is often caused by one or more calipers that need to be resealed, sometimes old hoses can also be the culprit.
Lack of "feel" is often caused by one or more calipers that need to be resealed, sometimes old hoses can also be the culprit.
#7
RL Technical Advisor
Good suggestions by everyone here,...
I've found that brake pads make a HUGE difference in pedal feel & efforts. IMHO, Textars (OEM or factory) are not the best choice for anything but daily drivers where there is no accumulation of rust on the rotors.
Although you didn't say how many miles are on your car or whether any maintenance records offered useful information, you should check out the vacuum booster, MC and perhaps replace old rubber brake lines. I would strongly recommend looking to see what pads you have in there as thats really critical for having reasonable pedal efforts to stop the car.
I've found that brake pads make a HUGE difference in pedal feel & efforts. IMHO, Textars (OEM or factory) are not the best choice for anything but daily drivers where there is no accumulation of rust on the rotors.
Although you didn't say how many miles are on your car or whether any maintenance records offered useful information, you should check out the vacuum booster, MC and perhaps replace old rubber brake lines. I would strongly recommend looking to see what pads you have in there as thats really critical for having reasonable pedal efforts to stop the car.
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#8
Addict
this may sound way off, but what about front wheel bearings? Mine were loose and caused uneven wear on my rotors and pads that caused one side to lock up long before the other. The new rotors(drilled Zimmerman) and pads(Mindex) really, really improved things.
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Wow, tons of great ideas here. Thanks to everyone for the feedback. I had no idea my car already had power assited brakes, and just assumed they didn't by the feel. The master cylinder was just replaced before I bought the car according to the owner. Also, I don't know what the brakes are supposed to feel like, so maybe they are fine, but just compared to my RX-7 feel different. We got about 2 to 3 feet of snow today, but when the weather gets better, I will have to do some investigation.
Peter, where should I start my investigation. If a caliper needs to be resealed, is it obvious from looking at it. How about the hoses?
Peter, where should I start my investigation. If a caliper needs to be resealed, is it obvious from looking at it. How about the hoses?
#10
Rennlist Member
The hoses are easy - get access to them, they're dated on the ends. If they're older than 10 years, or have 100K miles - replace them.
The calipers are trickier. Usually you can get an idea of condition by removing a pad and pushing the piston back into the housing. If it's super-tight the caliper will probably need resealing - but if it is tight make sure that you release the hose from the caliper (cover the connection to protect everything from flying brake fluid), and try it again. If you've already got good hoses you usually don't have to do the last step.
The calipers are trickier. Usually you can get an idea of condition by removing a pad and pushing the piston back into the housing. If it's super-tight the caliper will probably need resealing - but if it is tight make sure that you release the hose from the caliper (cover the connection to protect everything from flying brake fluid), and try it again. If you've already got good hoses you usually don't have to do the last step.
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
And for the OP: When you do the caliper tests inspect the rubber gasket that seals the piston. These rip very easily & let crud into the piston chamber. An easy fix btw.
Ian
#12
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Thanks Steve. I will check the pads as well when I do my full inspection. I have no idea when they were changed or what they are.
Does anyone replace the stock brake hoses with steel braided? Are they even available, necessary?
Does anyone replace the stock brake hoses with steel braided? Are they even available, necessary?
Last edited by justinsrx7; 03-09-2008 at 04:44 PM.
#13
Rennlist Member
Ian: I've always preferred Jurid or Pagid depending on application. I think that for your car/use Jurids would be a good choice.
Justin: I've never recommended braided hoses for anything other than actual racing/competition. Even then I only recommend hoses that are DOT approved, those are usually Kevlar braided. O.E. rubber hoses are the way to go, along with a high quality brake fluid like Ate Blue.
Justin: I've never recommended braided hoses for anything other than actual racing/competition. Even then I only recommend hoses that are DOT approved, those are usually Kevlar braided. O.E. rubber hoses are the way to go, along with a high quality brake fluid like Ate Blue.
#14
RL Technical Advisor
I'll differ from Pete here as my experience with Jurids has been horrible. In fact, I threw away a $200 pile of new Jurid pads last year due to come-backs and complaints.
FWIW,...I use Mintex on street cars and various Pagids for the track.
FWIW,...I use Mintex on street cars and various Pagids for the track.
#15
Rennlist Member
WOW! And when I still had my shop (1999) Mintex pads were not suitable for any use other than the track, and even then they weren't as good as Porterfield pads - how things change! Good info, Steve, were the Jurid complaints mostly for noise, dust...?