jakeflyer

I need to check the valves and the torque on the head studs on the SC within the next week. If you want to drive to Huntington Beach and watch the process, it will take me about hour or so to do it. It might give you a go or no go in a decision about doing it your self. There was an interesting response by the other posters that you may want to pay some serious attention to. A subtle caution was issued that I will try to translate (if I got it right). The bottom line may have been that you are attempting a task where many things can go wrong the first time you do it. Those possibilities can generate some MAJOR $ problems. A few of the mistakes can be---------

1. setting the wrong valve in relation to the spark/crank timing. 2. having the right feel for tightness/resistance drag of the feeler blade under the foot. If too loose, you get clicks, if too tight or if the blade goes under the foot when it ***** and fools you, you can get really costly damage. 3. if you have to set a tight or loose rocker getting the nut tight and keeping the gap setting can be really trying, as the nut tightens the adjuster wants to tighten with it. 4. What manual did you read or are you looking at; your questions may reflect lack of research and preparation to get good response from those who have spent years and decades learning the 911(not me). 5. "101 projects for your porsche 911" by dempsey is an excellent book that you may want to get and use.

A. how are you going to turn the crankshaft with the plugs in the engine
b. can you halt the process before you loosen any valve adjuster nuts to gain a little more information

Amber Gramps

Jake, I have both the Bentely, and the 101 books. My attemp at humor has been to ease my physical pain when turning the wrenches. I am on my fourth pacemaker and am well into old age as I am only 8 days from being 41. That said, I have many years under my belt turning wrenches. I am taking it slow, more to preserve my ability to go to work tomorrow, not 'cause I don't know what I am doing. I have been on the board reading every thread and every post for a year and have found you guys to be the greatest wealth of info I could ever ask for. Thank you for being there for me and helping me learn my car.
At this point I have the exhaust valve covers off. On the driver's side I pulled all but three studs and on the passenger side I pulled about half. The lower gaskets looks much better and didn't stick to the heads or covers anywhere. I found that I did have an .004 gauge and the #1 intake felt perfect and the exhaust side felt very loose. I'm gonna go get me a stubby 13mm and some more brake cleaner. I think things are going well.

Edit/add on: Jake, I hope I didn't jump on you too hard. I really do appreciate the offer of help. I'm now at the half way point. I have #1, #6, & #2 done.

A. I have a 24mm socket on the fan and am turning 120 at a time...
B. Nope

jakeflyer

glad all is well, you had me concerned. to answer your earlier question, the curved handle feeler gauge does work well and comes with a few spare blades for replacement if you bend one. Hope I did not beat up too harshly on you.

I did not buy the 88 cab. it had been parked next to the ocean

Amber Gramps

I am done with the valves and have the tools clean and put away. Now I have to go shopping for the stud kit. This is where having Performance Products only an hour away really comes in handy....Am I getting closer yet?

Edit: It doesn't look like a stud kit or even studs are available at Performance or Pelican. I guess I'll pull them out of the trash and soak them in some PB Blaster(what everit it's called) and then wire wheel them. Gotta go. Just got invitation into wifes bedroom>>>>

old man neri

Ya, a few of my studs were pulled as well. I just double nutted it and got the original nut off. I reused the studs as well.

Peter Zimmermann

Hey Douglas - GOOD JOB! I'm glad that it's going well. neri's correct about the studs, double nut the housing end, remove the old nylok, wire wheel that end, remove the double nuts and install the stud (clean the stud holes with lacquer thinner and Q-Tips first)...

Amber Gramps

Once I double nut and prep how do I get them back in the hole. I'm thinking of an acorn nut. How would you do it? Man, I am one sore dog this morning!

AJ88CAB

Double nut them to replace, snug but do not over tighten, then use two wrenches to remove the nuts. I believe I used a little blue Loc-Tite when I replaced mine.
Good Luck, Andrew

old man neri

I just screwed them in using my index finger and thumb. Pete may disagree with my method. It's not exactly a high torque, high stress, tight tolerance application. It just holds a valve cover on.

Peter Zimmermann

douglas: Depends how good the threads are, neris method is good, and so is andrew's method. The stud will bottom when you start to tighten the nylok nut, so each stud will get to the same place anyway.

jake: No need to torque your heads - this is not necessary on an aluminum case engine!

Amber Gramps

Thanks guys for the tips. The studs were a major pain to get out so I was thinking they were going to be just as big a pain going in. I used a 1/4" drive ratchet that was only about four inches long so I didn't have much leverage. I'll clean everything up and reassemble. It looks like tonight I get to sew a South American Black Footed Cat for one of my jr. high kids so It may be a day or two till I make any more progress.

Peter Zimmermann

What happened to the cat, did your North American White-Footed Pit Bull get to it? I know, I know - bad joke!

Just don't forget that you car is without covers and oil, and try to drive it to work!

When you get to the fill it with oil part, put in 9 quarts. After the test drive, and it's up to full temp, top it up in the normal way...

Amber Gramps

Pete, no distributor cap. Come on, keep up...

I'm thinking of running it with the 9 new quarts with the old oil filter, then draining, re-filling with another new round of oil, then putting on the new oil filter. I'm kinda fealing paranoid about sand getting into the heads. I even have a new fuel filter I may put in.

I can't believe how perfect the cams look!

Amber Gramps

Looked for new studs everywhere today. Even went by 911 design and saw the two 850HP cup cars. They don't even keep many extra studs around 'cause they just don't break. They sent me to where they shop and still nothing. Loren thinks it would be a good move to do a leak-down test when I get it back on the road. With the nuts as bad as they look the valve covers may have never been off and I may still have original spark plugs. If I can get them to throw it on the dyno while I'm there it will be worth the $200.00.

Peter Zimmermann

douglas: Trust me, this is not necessary. Put the covers on, change the filter, put oil in it and go have fun.