sonett356

I’m preparing to drop the engine on my ’70 911T (2.2 engine) to replace a chewed up starter ring gear. I’ve read thru my Haynes manual as well as “101 projects”, the Pelican Parts Tech articles and a handful of other resources. Most of what I’ve read is geared towards newer 911’s. Although the process is very similar for the 2.2 engine, does anybody have any particular details to consider for the removal/install of this specific engine? I plan to leave the tranny (updated to a 915) in the car. Which other items should I address while the engine is out? This is the first real mechanical work I've done on this car, so I'm still "getting my feet wet". I will post a separate question about ring gear replacement. Thanks.

black911

While I don't have any specifics for you I say "GO AHEAD!" get your hands dirty and remove that engine! In my years of working on cars I haven't yet become "totally" screwed doing anything and neither will you. So jack her up and go for it! Be careful pulling the engine out, make sure everything is disconnected, etc etc. It always helps to have an extra pair of hands around for the actual removal of the engine. Be sure to keep everything organized and if you really want to be proud when you're done MAKE SURE to clean all the parts that you can before putting everything back together. While it may seem like a tedious and time consuming process, the results are far worth the effort. And if you don't clean everything you might not find something that's broken. Replacing parts while the engine is out can sometimes be much easier than replacing them when they're in!

Good luck and props to you for removing the engine by yourself! It's a lot easier than the task first seems like.

r911

Have a helper - do not do it alone.

Keep a cell phone on & handy in case the thing drops on your foot or something.

It is much easier to pull the motor and tranny together, then separate them.

do a search on Pelican for projects to complete while the motor is out of the car.

is your T carbs or MFI? MFI has very high fuel pressure so that might be something to deal with

Droops83

It is easier to remove the engine and transmission together, trust me. The early carbureted engines ('70 Ts had Zeniths from the factory; MFI didn't come to the T till '72) are even easier to remove than the later cars, since there are simply much fewer components to disconnect. If removing the engine and trans as a unit, you just have to make sure that the transmission selector shaft clears the tunnel before you lower the engine all the way. Just make sure you have a helper/spotter since this is your first time.

Also, on the early engines, much of the "while you are in there" stuff that applies to the later CIS/EFI cars when the engine is out is pretty easy to get to on the early engines while it is still in (thermostat o-ring, bellcrank bushings, breather hoses, etc). So, short of rebuilding the engine/trans, your list of minor repairs that can really only be done with the engine out is limited to clutch-related items, and the rear main seal if it is leaking.

sonett356

Many thanks for your input guys. Will drop the engine and tranny as a unit.

Anything special about disconnecting the CV joints from the tranny? From looking at my manual, it looks like you just loosen a handful of bolts and knock it free. Sounds too easy.... Once the bolts are removed, can the tranny slide out, or are there some type of internal shafts that will need pulled outwards to disengage them from the tranny? Years ago I pulled the engine/tranny from a Saab 99 and it was a major pain to get the CV joints far enough out of the tranny to allow it to be lifted.

Thanks!
Marty

Amber Gramps

Six bolts and the axles just fall away. It may take a small tap, but not much.

Droops83

Actually on early cars like his '70T there are 4 10MM bolts and 2 large roll pins that locate the inner CV joints to the axle flanges. Once you remove the bolts, it can be a bit of a pain to free the CV joint from the flange if it has been a long time since it was last apart, since the roll pins are kind of a tight fit. You need to beat on the side of the CV joint w/ a dead blow hammer till it separates a tiny bit, then you can get a large screwdriver or prybar and pry it apart the rest of the way. Once they are free, then you just have to make sure the dangling axles don't get caught on the trans or starter as you lower the engine/trans.

EDIT: I just saw that your car has a 915 trans in it, which most likely means it has later stub axles which accept the later style CV joints/axles that are held on w/ the 6 8MM bolts. In that case they will come right out once the bolts are removed, but sometimes it's hard to remove them without stripping the Allen heads, so be careful.

sonett356

Thanks for your input. Will crawl under the car and see how many bolts I have. I like the 6 bolt scenario better....

Now I just need the temp to go up a few degrees so that it is above freezing in the garage. My first Detroit winter has been a cold one.

theiceman

If you have the newer tranmision ( 915 ) you may very well have the 6 bolt patern, if so it's a breeze. A little messy but easy. I think the three main keys to an nengine drop are
1. getting the oil lines off ( one can be a real bugger )
2. Geting the car high enough to get it out ( may require rear bumper removal )
3. getting a good jak and balance when lowering the engine.

Ps I know what you mean about htis winter. I am 3 hours down the highway in Cambridge Ontario. It has been a brutal one.

r911

well you also want to replace the firewall sound pad if it is old & spiff up the compartment generally - maybe even repaint it

BTW - two people for motor removal & have a cell phone handy - check the jack stands' stability just before you drop the bolts out & use the spare or wood block as extra safety device NEVER use concrete blocks.

Crimson Nape Racing

I did this a LONG time ago, and it may not be an issue with the 915 tranny, but I remember having trouble separating the engine and tranny. It was simple once I understood - there are "tabs" on the TOB and it had to be turned 90 degrees to release the shift fork. As far as removing the engine, it's very simple - just make sure the car is high enough for the engine to clear once its down.

Crimson Nape Racing

another thing, when the engine bolts comes out and the car raises, it looks the engine is falling. I remember that scared the you-know-what out of me the first time.