Anyone have experience with redyeing Linen leather?
#16
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Keep in mind that Linen colored leather is a processed color. That is, it is not vat dyed in the usual sense that most people think of when coloring leather. The fact is, most Porsche leathers are processed leathers (save today's "natural leathers" and sevral of yesterday's leathers (black used to be one of them)). When Porsche processes the leather (their supplier,--actually), they sand the leather to get the appearance they are looking for, scouring off flaws, etc. They then sometimes will re-emboss into the surface of the leather, the appearance of leather granularity. Finally, they literally 'paint' the color onto the surface of the leather. Your high wear areas are the first to lose that coating of this 'paint' and this is what you have.
Start by doing a search online for leather refinishers. I know they are out there. Do not attempt this yourself because you will mess it up. You need that paint reapplied to the surface. If you think you can 'stain' it back on it will darken the base leather and it will never match the painted leather.
Good luck!
Start by doing a search online for leather refinishers. I know they are out there. Do not attempt this yourself because you will mess it up. You need that paint reapplied to the surface. If you think you can 'stain' it back on it will darken the base leather and it will never match the painted leather.
Good luck!
#17
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Professional restoration of my seat is most likely out of my price range. Plus, I have other small bits that could also use a refresh, and it would be nice to be able to do these pieces as well. If it came down to spending $$$ for someone else to do the work, I would probably opt to buy a replacement seat cover and install myself, which I have done once already with good results.
#18
uninformed gas bag
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I redyed my seats, dash, door panels, and door panel caps black on my 82SC with the Leatherique dye. Probably the easiest color to do and it turned out very nice. The stuff is almost like ink.
BTW
I practiced on an extra door panel cap that I had.
I am a total tool for ever selling it!
BTW
I practiced on an extra door panel cap that I had.
I am a total tool for ever selling it!
#19
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I had a customer a few years ago dye his linen leather seats. He had a few cracks in the leather that were slightly deeper than the others. After the dye job the seats looked pretty good, but after a few months the areas where the cracks where "deeper", showed up more, thus these areas would stick out more to the eye.
Before you dye your seats, maybe you could consider having the leather replaced at any areas where there are deep cracks.
Before you dye your seats, maybe you could consider having the leather replaced at any areas where there are deep cracks.
#20
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Linen leather dye
jpyles.......i have a linen interior and redyed the seats about 4 weeks ago. Stunningly good looking now.
I used Dynamix from the UK, originally buying the small bottle to redye the scuff marks on the driver seat bolster. It blew me away at how good it looked!
I then purchased the larger bottle and a small bottle of flamenco red for the piping. Removing all 4 seats, i probably spent a week cleaning and redying.
The seats look absolutely stunning! Unfortunately i don't have before and after pics but the photos shown on their web site are for real, that really is the difference between old and redyed.
The only concern i would have is the longevity of the dye......ask me in 5 years time how my seats look.
I used Dynamix from the UK, originally buying the small bottle to redye the scuff marks on the driver seat bolster. It blew me away at how good it looked!
I then purchased the larger bottle and a small bottle of flamenco red for the piping. Removing all 4 seats, i probably spent a week cleaning and redying.
The seats look absolutely stunning! Unfortunately i don't have before and after pics but the photos shown on their web site are for real, that really is the difference between old and redyed.
The only concern i would have is the longevity of the dye......ask me in 5 years time how my seats look.
#21
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4sound,
Fortunately, the seat has no major cracks. It's the passenger side, so it hasn't gotten the same "seat time" as the driver's side. Mostly it's just faded/yellowed over time from exposure to sun/weather/etc. I also think some of the dye has thinned in areas because those places are starting to take on a grey hue. That's why I think it is a good candidate for redye.
Glad to hear your customer was successful with linen. That gives me confidence.
Fortunately, the seat has no major cracks. It's the passenger side, so it hasn't gotten the same "seat time" as the driver's side. Mostly it's just faded/yellowed over time from exposure to sun/weather/etc. I also think some of the dye has thinned in areas because those places are starting to take on a grey hue. That's why I think it is a good candidate for redye.
Glad to hear your customer was successful with linen. That gives me confidence.
Last edited by jpyles; 02-15-2008 at 03:04 PM.
#22
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The big question is: Do your black slacks come out looking white after a drive in the car?
#23
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After pics.....
It's a shame i didn't take before photos as well because the difference is stunning. The old seats looked almost a very light grey, unfortunately that was just plain old fashioned DIRT. I cleaned them with methylated spirits.
The bolster on the drivers side had two very clear, wide and long scuff marks but after about 4 coats of dye they are almost impossible to see.
The best thing i found, after a thorough cleaning, was to water the dye down by about 25% and apply 2 light coats and then a couple at full strength.
12 hours after the final coat you can drive and 3 days later apply conditioner. No dye rubbing off at all.
The red piping i did last of all with a fine paint brush and about 4 coats.
The bolster on the drivers side had two very clear, wide and long scuff marks but after about 4 coats of dye they are almost impossible to see.
The best thing i found, after a thorough cleaning, was to water the dye down by about 25% and apply 2 light coats and then a couple at full strength.
12 hours after the final coat you can drive and 3 days later apply conditioner. No dye rubbing off at all.
The red piping i did last of all with a fine paint brush and about 4 coats.
Last edited by nirich; 09-20-2009 at 12:59 AM.
#25
jpyles,
Your leather can be re-dyed. It is very easy to do. I own an uphostery shop and do it alot for customers that do not want to replace leather or vinyl just because of a worn area. I have a paint shop mix the color with out any hardners, so it can flex. Clean the leather, damp-not wet towel of laquer thiner, this cleans all old cleaners and conditioners, let it dry and spray new color. Spray lightly and do several coats. let dry and enjoy "new" interior. The biggest issue is getting someone who can match colors correctly. I have a guy who is fantastic. Any good paint supply house shouold be able to match.
Your leather can be re-dyed. It is very easy to do. I own an uphostery shop and do it alot for customers that do not want to replace leather or vinyl just because of a worn area. I have a paint shop mix the color with out any hardners, so it can flex. Clean the leather, damp-not wet towel of laquer thiner, this cleans all old cleaners and conditioners, let it dry and spray new color. Spray lightly and do several coats. let dry and enjoy "new" interior. The biggest issue is getting someone who can match colors correctly. I have a guy who is fantastic. Any good paint supply house shouold be able to match.