This weekend, I plan on adjusting the valves on my 82 911 SC. I have a book with some good instruction (101 projects), but it lacks some newbie info. Does anyone have some advice or pitfall info I should know about before I have a go at it?

 

Check out the following article on Pelican's web site. It goes into more detail than the book.

<a href="http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_valve_adjust/911_valve_adjust.htm" target="_blank">http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_valve_adjust/911_valve_adjust.htm</a>

The hardest part of the job for most 1st timers is getting access to the valves. You may need to move some heat ducting and the a/c compressor.

Good Luck. Bruce

 

The online Pelican article is very good. The only additional advice I would add is to try get a feel for the required valve clearance on an easily accessible valve guide first. Maybe one of the exhaust guides where you can actually see into the area. On the intake guides you will not have any real visual access - it will truly be by feel - so practicing with an easily accessible area first is a good way to start. Remember that if the feeler gauge can be pulled out you are within the clearance tolerance, so if the gauge slides around easily the guide is too loose. Also, removing the cat gives you much better access on the driver's side exhaust valves. Finally, be sure to have several extra blades as they break easily.

 

Good luck, Please let us know how it goes.

 

A minor lesson I learned the hard way: If you are using one of those bent angle feeler gauges with removable blades - make sure the bolts on the feeler gauge are tight! They loosen as you check the clearance and can fall out into the engine. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="eek.gif" />

Luckily I found all the bits, but it could have been really bad.

I also rechecked the clearance twice after I rotated the engine through one complete cycle, just for peace of mind. Getting the clearance to be just right when you tighten the retaining nut takes a while to get the hang of.

Adjusting the valves will take twice as long as you think it will, but YOU CAN DO IT!

 

You can also check yourself using a dial indicator and a 'Z' block to see if your adjustment is proper.

 

I don't mean to scare you, but be very careful not to set the valves too tight. My first time I did and bent a valve. I'm not really sure how I did it exactly.

 

Ok, so I'm getting close to the job. I ordered jack stands and I need a Hydraulic Jack too. Can I get away with a 2 tonner? Any advise on this?

I read everything and have gone over the procedure in my mind fifty times and think that I am ready. I don't know how to disconnect the compressor (as recommended) can anyone tell me how to do it. All i read is that it is simple, but not for me! Do I just unscrew the thing? Thanks for all the help

 

Mada - a 2 ton jack should be fine. You may want to order the jack plate tool as well if you have not done so (it slides into the side jack holes and allows you to lift using the floor jack). For the AC compressor there are 4 bolts that hold it to its mount. Do NOT loosen or remove any of the hoses. Merely release the compressor from the mount and then gently hang it over the back fender (put a towel under it to avoid damaging the fender).

 

Get the jack pad; well worth it. Do NOT be tempted to use the jack that comes with the car; they're dangerous.