Another episode of "ASK PETE" Live on Renn TV SEASON 2 UPDATE
#16
Rennlist Member
Just so Steve, myself, and all of RENN TV's "viewers" understand what you've done so far; (1) you've put front pads and rotors on both sides, (2) you have done wheel bearings complete on one side only, and (3) you did not disconnect the brake lines so you still have the old fluid in the system, correct? I strongly urge you to trade/sell your replacement brake hoses and put o.e. rubber lines on instead. Regarding your ride, as I posted earlier (different thread?) put the HD Bilsteins on and enjoy the heck out of the car (easy on the back, quick in the corners)! Oh, it's not unusual for a car with your age and mileage to still have the original front rotors.
The torque on the rotor to hub bolts/nuts is 17 lb/ft., and yes, that feels a little wimpy. Also, I assume that when you adjusted your wheel bearings you were able to move the thrust washer side-to-side under the spindle clamp nut, yes?
The torque on the rotor to hub bolts/nuts is 17 lb/ft., and yes, that feels a little wimpy. Also, I assume that when you adjusted your wheel bearings you were able to move the thrust washer side-to-side under the spindle clamp nut, yes?
#17
Addict
Thread Starter
Pete, yes I did the screwdriver wigle test on the thrust washer. I got the passenger side of the car done and ran out of time so she is parked till I get up the energy to get back at it. At 40 I have had a pacemaker for 18 years so things that require strain or produce pain tend to go very slow. I have a mind for things like this but not the body. I wish I hade you with me when I walk into PP. I asked for OE brake lines and the guy at the counter insisted I spend an extra $10 and get the steel braided lines. I know, I know...thais is why you are the master and I am the student. I'm trying, but sometimes bling bling wins out. so in short I got the right side races, bearings, rotor, pads installed and the left side is ready to install. She will remained parked till I get it done right. and the lines I will swap out for OE @ PP ASAP.
#18
RL Technical Advisor
I'd concur with Pete's recommendations about installing SS brake lines on your car.
I really like them for track cars and/or race cars, but not only do they require some care & feeding, these should be replaced every two years depending on mileage and environmental conditions.
The OEM rubber ones are the best choice for people who do not track their cars as they are maintenance-free and very reliable.
I really like them for track cars and/or race cars, but not only do they require some care & feeding, these should be replaced every two years depending on mileage and environmental conditions.
The OEM rubber ones are the best choice for people who do not track their cars as they are maintenance-free and very reliable.
#19
Addict
Thread Starter
I was thinking about what went wrong here. Had I wiggled the front wheels on a regular basis this may have never happened and the cost would be zero. Had I wiggled it and cought it early it would have cost $17.00 in bearings. I let it go and wiggled it after it made the brakes squeak to the tune of $400.00 in rotors, and pads. OOPS!
#20
Addict
Thread Starter
Took the car out for a good long run last night in the rain with the new bearings, rotors, and pads. What a differance. The car goes where I tell it to and doesn't wander all over the road. The bearings must have been really bad. Now it just stays neutral and I didn't feal like I had to constantly correct. this car is really improving with everything I do. runs good, looks good, and drives good. Who'd a guessed.
#21
Douglas:::: When assembling parts that are pressed together, put the part that is going inside (like the race) in the freezer over night. If the outer part is small enough, you can put it in the oven for a bit and then put on the gloves and quickly assemble it. It is often possible to tap the things home(at the stopping point) in an easy manner. This gives you a feel that you dont get with the press. You can reverse the process with a torch when you are taking it apart, but dont set the grease or car on fire.
#23
Rennlist Member
#24
Addict
Thread Starter
I really tried to let the heat do the work. I had a socket that was just sub-fractionally smaller than the race. That inner bearing was the real tricky one. I forgot about the second step on the first hub and after I pressed it in (I have a customer with a full machine shop and 6 ton press) I poped it back out 'cause I didn't think I got it to seat right. I had it in all along so I'm the dork.
#25
Rennlist Member
I really tried to let the heat do the work. I had a socket that was just sub-fractionally smaller than the race. That inner bearing was the real tricky one. I forgot about the second step on the first hub and after I pressed it in (I have a customer with a full machine shop and 6 ton press) I poped it back out 'cause I didn't think I got it to seat right. I had it in all along so I'm the dork.
#28
Rennlist Member
douglas: Don't you dare do the rear bearings! They have a very long life expectancy, and when they fail the symptom is usually one that can be dealt with as time becomes available. When a rear bearing fails you will be conscious of a low pitched hum in the car, most noticeable at about 50 mph. Here's the fun part, when you move the car quickly in one direction the noise will increase a little, when you yank the wheel the other direction the noise will go away. Obviously, to any readers out there who are going to go out and try this, make sure that you maintain control of the car, and that no other cars/obstacles are nearby - you don't have to approach loss of control, just move the car a little more quickly than a lane change, but not as quickly as moose avoidance.
#29
Addict
Thread Starter
Why is it that I think you were the kid that was always paying attention in class?
Why do I think you didn't leave all the tools in the shop when you walked away?
and
Why do I think you didn't leave all the tools in the shop when you walked away?
and