New car - want to remove swirl marks on black paint.
05-03-2003, 01:56 AM
#16
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Dealing with swirls are a combination of products and application.
For the products, I've had excellent results with Zaino, but you have to ensure that the base paint is in good shape since Zaino is close to optically perfect and it will show up any scratches. Outstanding gloss though. For natural waxes, I find Meguair's to be durable and very shiny.
Aside from ensuring that the car is dirt/dust-free when you polish it, the key to avoiding swirls is to apply in straight lines. For vertical panels, you go up and down. For horizontal panels (facing sky), apply the wax longitudinally, i.e. direction front to rear and vice versa. I fought swirls for so long on my other car, that after the repainting, I even wash it using straight lines. Don't press too hard either. Now it's swirl-free.
A lot of people say that applying in circles is better. Not entirely true. The reason why it is suggested by some wax manufacturers is because it is easy to miss areas when applying in straight lines.
Hope this helps
Puf
For the products, I've had excellent results with Zaino, but you have to ensure that the base paint is in good shape since Zaino is close to optically perfect and it will show up any scratches. Outstanding gloss though. For natural waxes, I find Meguair's to be durable and very shiny.
Aside from ensuring that the car is dirt/dust-free when you polish it, the key to avoiding swirls is to apply in straight lines. For vertical panels, you go up and down. For horizontal panels (facing sky), apply the wax longitudinally, i.e. direction front to rear and vice versa. I fought swirls for so long on my other car, that after the repainting, I even wash it using straight lines. Don't press too hard either. Now it's swirl-free.
A lot of people say that applying in circles is better. Not entirely true. The reason why it is suggested by some wax manufacturers is because it is easy to miss areas when applying in straight lines.
Hope this helps
Puf
05-03-2003, 11:55 PM
#19
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Black of course is the hardest color to deal with. I have always had good results with meguiars medallion for paint #M9816. If you miss a spot, you can see the difference. Always use 100% cotton terry cloth towels, the nap in the terry cloth isolates the dirt particles you are grinding into the surface as you clean. I also like their Final Inspection for in between washes #M3416.
05-07-2003, 03:13 PM
#20
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I like to wash & detail out my car every weekend. It is good therapy. my car is black and I use the porter cable random buffer for everything but the waxing process. for waxing I use the p21s wax and apply it with a foam applicator in the direction of the airflow of a moving car one section at a time and take it off seconds before a haze appears with the griots microfibre towels. As you can imagine...No swirl marks ever. A vender at the Hershey Swap talked me out of zybol for $50 and sold me a nifty kit for p21s products for just $39 and guarateed I would be happy. He was right. Since then I have given this same kit as gifts for bd's & xmas to all my car buddies.
05-08-2003, 10:42 AM
#21
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I don't have a garage and there's no point in washing my car every weekend with the rain that will inevitibly come an hour later. But the easiest, most effective cleaner I've found is the old $10 California duster at Wal-Mart. It really makes a noce difference and takes two min.
05-08-2003, 01:15 PM
#22
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Mcguires Products
Step1-Medium Cut Cleaner #1
Step 2-Dual/Action Cleaner/polish #83
Step 3-Swirl Remover 2.0 #9
Step 4-Show Car Glaze #7
-use soft foam machine pad 3M #05725 for #7 only
-use "W-8000" foam machine pad for everything else...I think the "W-8000" is Mcguires, but it may be 3M. I use the Makita 2 speed because it's lighter than others............Ron
Step1-Medium Cut Cleaner #1
Step 2-Dual/Action Cleaner/polish #83
Step 3-Swirl Remover 2.0 #9
Step 4-Show Car Glaze #7
-use soft foam machine pad 3M #05725 for #7 only
-use "W-8000" foam machine pad for everything else...I think the "W-8000" is Mcguires, but it may be 3M. I use the Makita 2 speed because it's lighter than others............Ron
05-08-2003, 06:34 PM
#23
I also use Griots products and have good success with them. I'm glad to hear about the Porter Cable polisher I've considered getting it but thought it was too expensive. This AM I happen to be picking up a couple of stainless steel bolts for my new Dansk Eurosport premuffler and saw that this place carried Porter Cable. Having just read this thread I asked about the polisher. I was amazed at the price- $135.00.
My question is does someone have the exact Porter Cable model #?
Would appreciate some help on this matter.
My question is does someone have the exact Porter Cable model #?
Would appreciate some help on this matter.
05-08-2003, 06:57 PM
#24
The Porter Cable model is #7424. For info on proper backing plate and pads do a search on the Autopia site (mentioned earlier in this thread) and/or check <a href="http://www.properautocare.com/porcabuldetm.html" target="_blank">http://www.properautocare.com/porcabuldetm.html</a>
If you have major swirls and or scratches you can try the PC 7428
If you have major swirls and or scratches you can try the PC 7428
05-09-2003, 02:46 AM
#25
Griots are a ripoff.
By definition.
They assemble all kinds of products, some good, some junk, some available at the local auto shop and all available elsewhere with other brands, good or bad.
Their value proposition is that they have everything piled in a catalogue and almost nothing they sell is junk. It's just overpriced for the privilege of not having to do the research yourself -- that, in part, is where places like Rennlist and this thread comes in.
Try working with a local auto paint supplier.
If they don't recommend 3M products and Dulux (or whatever is "the go" in your country) then try another shop or two.
By definition.
They assemble all kinds of products, some good, some junk, some available at the local auto shop and all available elsewhere with other brands, good or bad.
Their value proposition is that they have everything piled in a catalogue and almost nothing they sell is junk. It's just overpriced for the privilege of not having to do the research yourself -- that, in part, is where places like Rennlist and this thread comes in.
Try working with a local auto paint supplier.
If they don't recommend 3M products and Dulux (or whatever is "the go" in your country) then try another shop or two.
05-09-2003, 02:52 AM
#26
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by MarkY:
<strong>First, check out the following forum. You'll learn valuable information. <a href="http://www.autopia.org/forums/index.php" target="_blank">http://www.autopia.org/forums/index.php</a>
Next, buy yourself a Porter Cable Random Orbital buffer. You would have to TRY to hurt your paint using this machine. It's foolproof.
Third, while Klasse stuff is very good (I wouldn't use anything from Griot's, they're a ripoff), I'd pick up some 3M swirl mark remover and then put on a couple coats of Pinnacle Souveran.
Here is a picture of my 1988 Black Coupe after completing the above procedure.
<snip>
Here is one from a distance.
<snip></strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">MarkY: I'll bring my car to you. What's your fee?
Of course those old mineral paints really are like a looking glass, while the water based paints on later cars are, well, like water...
<strong>First, check out the following forum. You'll learn valuable information. <a href="http://www.autopia.org/forums/index.php" target="_blank">http://www.autopia.org/forums/index.php</a>
Next, buy yourself a Porter Cable Random Orbital buffer. You would have to TRY to hurt your paint using this machine. It's foolproof.
Third, while Klasse stuff is very good (I wouldn't use anything from Griot's, they're a ripoff), I'd pick up some 3M swirl mark remover and then put on a couple coats of Pinnacle Souveran.
Here is a picture of my 1988 Black Coupe after completing the above procedure.
<snip>
Here is one from a distance.
<snip></strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">MarkY: I'll bring my car to you. What's your fee?
Of course those old mineral paints really are like a looking glass, while the water based paints on later cars are, well, like water...
