My 3.2 rebuild saga continues...
12-03-2007, 11:52 AM
#31
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Thread Starter
Thanks Doug. The jobs always entail travel, and in many ways SD is a stronger airport than SNA. I hear you on the view, but we can look at a fairly nice house with 3 car garage for what a small condo in OC goes for. The other thing here is I'm still a member at the San Diego Yacht Club, so that helps us with a weekend ocean view....
We'll see what happens. All we need is a bigger drop in your real estate market!!
We'll see what happens. All we need is a bigger drop in your real estate market!!
12-04-2007, 09:15 PM
#35
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12-05-2007, 12:56 AM
#38
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Santa Barbara, California
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Oh by the way did you upgrade to the 10.3:1 compression ration pistons? (aka Euro spec). Or did you just regrind the ones you had? I want to upgrade but yikes is it expensive! I would only upgrade if I could sell my pistons and cylinders for 2000.00 dollars on pelican parts or something.
12-05-2007, 09:37 PM
#41
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Thread Starter
Drum roll, please.........Tadahhhh!!!!!
I'm done with the build. I got a lot done today including making some brackets to route the plug wires along the fan strap, and cutting some holes in the side sheetmetal for the future lower plug wires. Then, she came down off of the stand finally, and onto the ATV jack. Insertion comes Friday, blast-off on Saturday.
I'm done with the build. I got a lot done today including making some brackets to route the plug wires along the fan strap, and cutting some holes in the side sheetmetal for the future lower plug wires. Then, she came down off of the stand finally, and onto the ATV jack. Insertion comes Friday, blast-off on Saturday.
12-07-2007, 09:25 PM
#44
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I did get it in today after fighting it last night.....I was ALMOST ready to drop the trans, but decided to let it droop and angle the motor up to mate. It worked. It just requires a pretty precise angle to slide the engine onto the bell housing. All in all, it was easier not removing the trans.
So, it took maybe two hours to get it in and hooked up. I then put 10 qts of Brad Penn 30W break-in oil. I cranked it with the coil wire off, and the fuel pump fuse out. I got oil pressure pretty quickly. I cranked it twice for about 30 seconds a pop, and looked for leaks, had none. T
hen I cranked it again, and had a small oil leak at the RH chain cover. I traced it up to the oil pressure sender. I hadn't fully tightened it as I could move the whole block pretty easily, so I tightened the hollow bolt, and no more leaks. I cranked it two more times for 30 seconds, and no other oil leaks.
I had a buddy come over to watch the engine while I put fuel to it. I cranked it once for about 15 seconds with nothing. I started to crank it one more time, and Roger yelled to stop, we had 3 fuel leaks in the fuel line under the manifold between the rails. I didn't replace it as it looked fine, and didn't leak before, but I guess from the time sitting idle, or in handling it, it got dry enough to develop some leakes right at the swaged fittings. Zim's had some re-manf'd ($260!!!) ones in stock, so I got one this afternoon and will wrestle with it tomorrow. Won't be as easy with the engine in the car, but it looks doable.
I didn't get a sputter, but then again, I didn't seem to have fuel until the very end when I cut the starter. Maybe there was no fuel to light, or maybe I had no spark? I bought a new DME relay just to be safe, and I'll pop that in tomorrow.
It was encouraging that after a few combined minutes of cranking, I didn't have any oil raining down, and no bad noises. So, I've got my fingers crossed that when I get the new fuel line and the new relay, I'll indeed have spark. I didn't have the O2 sensor in, but I don't think that will cause a break in the DME system?
It was also good to see the car on the ground again.....
So, it took maybe two hours to get it in and hooked up. I then put 10 qts of Brad Penn 30W break-in oil. I cranked it with the coil wire off, and the fuel pump fuse out. I got oil pressure pretty quickly. I cranked it twice for about 30 seconds a pop, and looked for leaks, had none. T
hen I cranked it again, and had a small oil leak at the RH chain cover. I traced it up to the oil pressure sender. I hadn't fully tightened it as I could move the whole block pretty easily, so I tightened the hollow bolt, and no more leaks. I cranked it two more times for 30 seconds, and no other oil leaks.
I had a buddy come over to watch the engine while I put fuel to it. I cranked it once for about 15 seconds with nothing. I started to crank it one more time, and Roger yelled to stop, we had 3 fuel leaks in the fuel line under the manifold between the rails. I didn't replace it as it looked fine, and didn't leak before, but I guess from the time sitting idle, or in handling it, it got dry enough to develop some leakes right at the swaged fittings. Zim's had some re-manf'd ($260!!!) ones in stock, so I got one this afternoon and will wrestle with it tomorrow. Won't be as easy with the engine in the car, but it looks doable.
I didn't get a sputter, but then again, I didn't seem to have fuel until the very end when I cut the starter. Maybe there was no fuel to light, or maybe I had no spark? I bought a new DME relay just to be safe, and I'll pop that in tomorrow.
It was encouraging that after a few combined minutes of cranking, I didn't have any oil raining down, and no bad noises. So, I've got my fingers crossed that when I get the new fuel line and the new relay, I'll indeed have spark. I didn't have the O2 sensor in, but I don't think that will cause a break in the DME system?
It was also good to see the car on the ground again.....
12-08-2007, 06:37 AM
#45
Burning Brakes
That's simply beautiful work Ed! From my understanding, the missing O2 sensor is no biggie (ignored) under cold start, but I'm sure someone more knowledgable will confirm. I don't know what you have in mind for the hose connecting the LH hot air duct to the heat tube, but I tried several solutions that were "functional", but just didn't look "right". I ended up using some of the black (aluminum lined as I recall) fairly stiff hose sourced from Pelican...a PITA to make the required bends, but it is doable if you partially drop the engine a few inches. I'll locate a link if you haven't seen that thread before on Pelican. I know you just can't wait to drive...
Keith
'88 CE coupe
Keith
'88 CE coupe