Peter Zimmermann

Look under the front of the passenger side seat. Near the center tunnel you will find a small, silver relay (about 1" square) held in place with a small metal clip. That is the relay that controls much of your fuel system (pump, frequency valve, etc.); it's cheap, replace it, cross your fingers and start the car. The relay is a V-dub part, number 821 951 253. Good luck!

EtheCarGuy

Yep, the ignition was on, and no noise from the fuel pump. I don't think that the ignition is the problem, as it starts and runs for a second or two. I'll check out the thread on cold start issues, and I'll check the relay under the pass seat (The seat is still out of the car, so it should be a snap to replace.). I'll check the relay when I get home. I work next to a VW dealership, so with a little luck, they'll stock the part and I may be on the road...
Thanks again, and I'll let you know what happens. As always, any and all help is greatly appreciated.

The really beautiful part of this fiasco is that I've definately bonded more with my car, and that's always a good thing!
-E

EtheCarGuy

I bought VW's replacement pary, updated a few times over the years today and when I got home...Lo and behold there are only 4 pins instead of 5 on the original...If I knew how to read a wiring diagram, I might know if the fifth contact is even needed, but I don't so the question goes here.

FWIW, the 'new' VW part # is 8do 951 253a
It is missing contact 87b as well.

I do have the factory alarm if this makes a difference.

Thanks in advance,
-E

scottb

Pelican sells the correct five-pin version for $13.00. It's a cheap fix if it solves your problem.

EtheCarGuy

Scott,
Thanks, I have a call in to my father (also an EE happy to use his skills) to try and translate the diagram for me...The guy at VW swears that the center pin is not needed, but I'm suspect of that given the fact that my degree is in Philosophy, and not engineering of any kind... I am about to run through some suggestions made to me by a nice guy in Michigan...

I'll post as soon as possible, or in the middle....
Thanks again,
-E

EtheCarGuy

Scott,
Thanks for all of the information,
It appears that it is the air flow micro switch or the air flow contact at the sensor plate is the culprit, as after I bypassed the FP relay, the car started and ran! Woo Hoo! The only problem that I have found so far is that there is no change of continuity when the air flow sensor plate is raised manually. I did hear a 'click' while putting the FP relay in when the ignition was on so I know that the fuel pump does work.

What is the best way to get to the micro switch so I can rule that out, which would leave me with only a wiring problem (Scary) or a contact issue...

Thanks again for all of your help!
-E
(Copied and pasted to cover my bases)

Peter Zimmermann

Don't forget, when you lift the sensor plate (w/ignition on) you must also hear a pronounced buzz from the frequency valve, which is mounted just forward of the throttle body. The relay under the seat controls that also...

EtheCarGuy

Pete,
Thanks a million for all of your help as well, I did not hear any buzz of any kind under the hood while lifting the plate with the key in the on position save the ignition high pitched sound. What do you think could cause this?
-E

Peter Zimmermann

We'll know after you get a proper 5-pin relay installed! You might have to buy it from Porsche (or as Scott mentioned, from Pelican), even though it's a VW part - I'm not aware of a supersession...

EtheCarGuy

Pete,
Correct, and working 5 pin relay installed and all for nothing. Same exact results. I am back to the drawing board.
Hmmmmmm.
E

Peter Zimmermann

OK, on the very top of the engine you will see a rubber "dome" that connects to the throttle body on the left, and the sensor plate housing on the right. Each side is held in place with a hose clamp. On the forward side of the dome, that you can't see, there is a safety switch mounted onto the sensor plate housing. Imagine that it's roughly in the middle, and just below, the dome. If you can, reach behind there with your left hand, and pull the quick disconnect wire terminal off that switch. To gain access, removal of the heater blower is easier than removal of the dome, but you might have to do one or the other. Once the switch is disconnected the fuel pump should run with ignition. If it doesn't please post an update.

EtheCarGuy

Pete,
Are you talking about the micr switch on the sensor plate side? If so, I have tried that to no avail.
-E

Peter Zimmermann

Please be more clear, I don't understand what you're asking...

EtheCarGuy

Sorry for the confusion, I reached around the back side of the rubber dome and found a blue connector attached to the back of the air flow plate housing (forgive me if I don't use the correct terms) and unplugged it. I believe this to be the 'micro switch' I then turned the key to the 'on' position and the pump did not run. It remained dead as a doornail. The pump did not run with ignition. I hope this clears it up a little, you've been a tremendous help!

-E

Peter Zimmermann

Yep, that's the safety switch. No pump with the ignition on, huh?

Think, think, think...

What kind of an alarm does the car have? Please mention alarms, even any that have been "removed..."